Hey guys, ive had my system installed for a couple weeks now but have not been able to run the egine due to the tranny beeing out of it. I was just out looking at the truck and that Snow system and a question hit me, IF im not using the system whats going to keep all that pressure from backing up through the nozzles, pump, and water tank? I could see this hurting the pump. I would think there should be a one way valve between the pump and nozzles to prevent this. Anyone running this system w/o problems or that have thought of this before? Its the Snow stage 2 kit with the 220 psi upgrade pump, i installed both holders with the largest nozzles and will be running anywhere between 45-70 psi boost. Thanks ~Ryan~ P.S. getting the convertor back in the morning so should be getting some track time this weekend for the first time! Hope So.. Later

 

The positive displacement design of the pump prevents back-flow.

If your supply tank is mounted above the installed nozzles, you might consider installing a spring-loaded check-valve as a means of stopping the tank from draining into your engine by gravity. An older design would have an electric solenoid valve accomplish this, but considering there's next to no vacuum in our diesels (as compared to the gasser install), a spring-loaded check-valve is adequate.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the response David. But if its a positive disp. pump should it syphone water even if the tanks higher than the nozzles? Its going to be close, i'll look later but my tanks up there prob. real close to the level of the nozzles. Also does anyone just set the second dial higher than the first so the pump will come on at full pressure, i think it should work that way? Im just wondering if the partial voltage will lower the life of the pump, i think i found where this pump would normaly be used and the votage is contant, may not hurt a thing, but it might work in this other application just as well to come on at full pressure? What do you think..... Ryan

 

I think the whole tank above the pump / siphoning thing is related exclusively to the gassers which of course can exert a vacuum on the W/M system thus the check-valves, and solenoids.

The bottom of my supply tank is approximately level with my nozzles and when it's full, the level is well above the nozzles. To date, I've never had an issue with it. Just be aware though.

NOTE, the variable controllers don't vary the pump supply voltage. The controllers power the pump(s) such that they run on a "Duty-Cycle". That being: 50% pump capacity equals the pump running full throttle, 50% of the time in an On/Off cycle. I'm not sure as to how each of the major W/M system makers go about it, but it's of the same mode.


As far as the two controls overlapping, it's just another feature of the electronic age. I've found it best in my situation to have the pump start at about 20psig boost and be full on at about 25psig boost when drag racing. I do change it though, to 20psig start, and full on at 35+psig for daily driving as the engine has a hard time digesting a full throttle blip with the boost falling quickly away. It chokes the engine a little just after the throttle is let go. It seems the W/M doesn't immediately go away with backing down. Remnant W/M stacked in the intake horn and manifold no doubt.

 

Great to hear from someone that uses it! Does it just make a huge diff. in temps, ive really backed it down since last time i drove it but then i could bury the 2000* guage in say less than 4 seconds. This is why i started with the blue nozzles that the instructions said what the most volume. I hope it really works, also concurned with rust, to start i filled the tank half full of water then the other half with wal-mart 32* blue washer fluid with should be very conservitive. Im looking for mostly a drop in egt at this point and will hurt for power later. Thanks for any other tips or comments on the system as well as the simple nitrous system that i put together for additional cooling if needed, its just a fogger nozzle with a #24 jet in place. Thanks again Ryan

 

It's my understanding that, generally speaking, the lower methanol content will lend itself more to EGT control with a 20% blend being the minimum (don't want to quench the fire). Still, some run stright water with no ill effects. Your milage may vary.
I can tell you from my experience that the maximum recommended blend of 50% / 50% does diddly-squat for EGT control and may actually raise the temps a bit pending your trim/application.

Regarding potential corrosion issues, I feel there's really no concern. I recently swapped heads on my mess and found the intake horn and manifold quite oil free but nothing in the way of "Oh My God!"

Zoom in to the intake log (up to 250% fuzz free). . .

 

Thanks again, im looking forward to some track time to tune this thing in.