Can anyone shed some light on how to go about replacing these. I have a general Idea but would like some mire guidance. How do I keep the valve from dropping into the cylinder after removing the spring and keepers. Thats my main concern. Any pictures would be awesome to!

 

To keep the valves from dropping into the cylinders, you turn the engine over to bring the piston to top-dead-center(TDC). This means rotate the engine over manually by using either a baring tool or a socket w/breaker bar on the alternator. You will be able to do two cylinders at a time, since there are always two at TDC. I just can't remember which "sets" of cylinders go together. Anyways, when the piston is at TDC, you can rest the valves in that cylinder on the piston without them falling completely out of the head. There will be more than enough of the valve stem sticking up for you to grab, pull up on and reinstall the spring, retainer and keepers. There are two ways for the driveway mechanic to determine when a cylinder is at, or close to TDC. The first is pull all the injectors and look in the hole. Not only will this allow you to shine a light in there to see the top of the piston, but, it will make manually turning the engine over much easier. The second involves watching the rocker arms. You would look for one rocker arm to be closing it's valve and the other to start opening. I just can't remember if it's the exhaust would be closing and the intake would be starting to open or visa versa. I think dodgeram.org has good instructions on what to look for with this type of method. As for removing the seals, you may be able to pry them off with a screwdriver. It's better if you can grab them with a seal removal tool. In fact, if you have the "top-hat" type seals(these seals kind of look like top hats with the brim of the hat resting under the valve spring...you'll know when you see it), you will have to grab them with something. Just be carefull because you do not want to slip off the seal and damage the valve stem that's still sticking up. Just take your time. Place rags around the valves your working on to catch any keepers that may fall. Try and use a pencil magnet to remove the keepers and use the rags as a back-up. When putting the keepers back on, you can put a small, as in just enough, dab of assembly lube on the inside of the keeper and stick it to the top of the valve to help keep it in place until you release the spring/retainer. Then it's just rotating the engine over until the next set of pistons come up to TDC. Also, remember to set your valve lash when you done. Like I mentioned earlier, check out dodgeram.org. They have some great instructional articles on stuff like this. Good luck!

 

Motor is smoking and oil out the exhaust manifold...Thanks Herc....I'll be doing this on a new motor. I guess the seal broke, tore or was damaged upon install. PITA.

 

good time to swap valve springs and adjust the valves

 

if it's smoking like you say I think you might have bigger problems than valve guides.I see you have some power there dio you have an egt guage?

 

This is a new motor. I pulled the turbo and exhaust manifold. Why would there be oil in the exhaust ports of the head? I mean there is not oil pouring out but the ports are coated and it's enough that when it's running to smoke blue/white.

Would this be related to the valve seals or the rings not seated? The motor has been run on a stand for about 2 hours only. W/the v-cover off it's almost impossible to view any of the seals due to the springs covering them. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Any info???