9812vram

Careful with that ether! It's like a bomb if it hits the grids when they're hot!
Have you changed that lift pump yet? Now would be a good time to check fuel pressure. Sounds like that's your culprit - if you can prime it up with the primer and it catches but won't run, it's likely the lift pump is toast. The primer is it's own pump so it can still work when the lift pump itself doesn't.... That is..... if you haven't replaced the pump already.

fourthandgoal

I haven't replaced the pump yet. If the lift pump is shot but I can get it running the IP is enough to pull fuel while it's running, no? Unfortunately I'm stuck out here with no spare parts and only the tools I keep in my toolbox. I REALLY don't want to go the ether route but if I were to give it a shot, what is the safest way to go about that?

It was a long haul to get where I am so I suppose it's possible that the pump failed completely somewhere along the way and the IP kept it running until I got here and killed the motor

9812vram

I don't think the p-pump has an internal charge pump so I don't think it would stay running without the lift pump working at some capacity. I'm not 100% sure on that though.
Seems like maybe the lift pump failed enough that it doesn't pump enough fuel to start, but once the rpm's are up, it has just enough to keep it running.
I wonder if you crimped off the return line and got someone to turn the key while you pumped the primer like mad and see if it would run then? If it did, that would pin-point the problem I'm thinkin'.... If it works, don't run it too long with the return crimped off.

fourthandgoal

I don't have another set of hands at the moment, I'll try that in a little while when someone else will be around...In the meantime I've got the heater plugged in and I'm gonna try to get the thing pointed downhill to help matters. If it won't start then I'm gonna pull the overflow valve off and check the spring inside. I should also note that I'm having to lift the fuel solenoid almost every time I cut the ignition on

Thanks again for your help (and everyone else that has contributed)

fourthandgoal

got it pointed downhill with a tractor and pulled the overflow valve off, the spring was a little short. stretched it out to just over .5" but still nothing.

And just making sure, the overflow bolt goes like this, right:

>WCO=

where > is the small screw, W is the spring, C is the little retainer cap, O is the ball bearing, and = is the outer valve housing that it all fits in? It all burst out on me when I got it on the bench so I didn't get to see how it went together. The only other thing I could think is that I got the cap and ball switched, as in the cap seats in the housing and the ball makes direct contact with the spring. I think I have it right though

9812vram

Ya, I'm pretty sure it's your lift pump. If you leave that over flow valve out or loose and crank the engine, do you get fuel there?

fourthandgoal

I'll check that but I didn't get fuel at the injectors when I cracked them so I'm guessing you're right. I'm going to pressurize the system with my air compressor and see if I can't force a start that way. If it starts then that'd basically confirm that my lift pump is shot, right?

9812vram

Yes and no.... lol It could be that the suction line is plugged in the tank or that the pre-screen in the lift pump is plugged also. However, being that it was running good when parked and now suddenly doesn't run or pump any fuel, yes, I'm leaning towards the pump itself.
Try cranking it with that OFV out - if you get no fuel, then leave it cracked and pump the hand primer. If you then get fuel - pump is pin->pointed.
Hope that helps...

fourthandgoal

Pressurized the tank and still wouldn't start. When I crack the OFV and pressurize the system fuel flows right out of it, even with the ignition off. So it's getting fuel to the IP, but nothing to the injectors. I've made sure each time that the solenoid is lifted before I try to crank it...is there a possibility that it's falling somehow during cranking?

9812vram

The only problem with pressurizing the tank is that it will force fuel backwards through the return line - like from the tank-to-OFV. That's why it appears that you have fuel even with the ignition off, but it won't run.... The fuel's coming backwards through the return line at the OFV.
Try this: Try cranking it with that OFV out (this way the only way the fuel will flow is if the lift pump is pumping it) - if you get no fuel, then leave it cracked and pump the hand primer. If you then get fuel - pump is pin->pointed.

fourthandgoal

Well, you nailed it. Nothing (or very little) out of the OFV when cranking but I could make it bubble out by manually pumping it. Guess I'll have to leave it here until I can get home and get all my parts/tools. Thanks a million for sticking with me through it, I'll update when I can get back up here to work on it.

9812vram

No problem my friend.... Please do keep us updated! I always like to hear when a guy gets up and going again.

TheWaterman1000

Could be air. I had simular. Opened bleed at top of filter. Pumped the lift pump. Saw fuel. Still would not start. Cracked one of the injector lines at the IP. Cranked to see if fuel would come out. Some did, then ran the started until I got a good flow. Then checked at the injectors. She fired right up. I was checking to see if the lift pump was suppling fuel at the filter, then see if fuel was getting from the filter to the IP by cracking one of the injector line's at the IP.
You could get a couple of wd-40 can's and start shooting some into the turbo inlet to try and keep the truck going until the air is out or the problem shows itself.

My OFV would let my truck idle great but crap out when I tried to go. Changed that and she ran great.

I should back up. I found one of my lines from my tank to the lift pump was leaking fuel real bad. I put a boat tank with a return nipple I install to by pass the fuel tank to run this trouble down.

Your fuel could be starting to gel. I would also check the pre heater/filter. This worthless crap part can also leak air. I would use a block heater on a timer to get the engine warmed up before starts in cold weather.

Just my two bit's...

9812vram

Yeah, could be air, I see what you're saying... when he cracked the injector lines - no fuel while cranking. But when he cracked the return at the ip - no fuel while cranking - but getting fuel when pumping the primer. That's the part that kind of dismisses air being a problem - if it was air, it would not pump with the hand primer either.... or it would take 50 pumps (or whatever) to prime the system up agian....
A bad OFV can cause a hard start, but won't prevent starting.
Fuel gelling would make sense too except for the same thing - doesn't pump fuel while cranking - does pump fuel with primer. Again, if it was gelled, the primer wouldn't do anything either. I believe he also mentioned that he had it plugged in...

TheWaterman1000

Oh-on the IP, crack one of the injector lines to the injector. That way you could see if fuel is going to the injector. If you are not getting fuel out of all of the DV to the injector, gulp. If fuel flows from tank to Lift pump. Then to filter, then to IP, as check from the suggestion above. It could be air or...... a bad IP. I would lean toward air first as much as possible. Before junking the IP. If he has to, plumb in a fuel sorce from the tank to make reallllyyyyy sure. That's why I made up the boat thank for this purpose. Better to spend a little more time than kick yourself to find out the IP was ok and dump a couple K's.