fourthandgoal

Thank you for the suggestions...If I swap out the LP, OFV and fuel lines and the problem persists I'll train in on the IP (Lord help me if that's the problem)

On that note, I'm going to replace ALL of the fuel delivery and return lines and get a tapped banjo bolt while I'm at it. Is there any listed size and length chart available so when I go to the shop I know exactly how much of what fuel hose to buy?


And I can't say it enough, y'all have my infinite gratitude for helping me with everything. This is my first diesel vehicle, I feel like the first time I walked into a sex shop as a kid...exciting as hell but I'll be damned if I know what any of it's for

TheWaterman1000

Before I would pull anything I would get the snubber from
http://www.torkteknology.com/product...ER-CBS010.html
Rob's a great guy and you'll save yourself a lot of time trying to reinvent the wheel that way. Also I hooked mine up with a hose barb out the snubber on 2 feet of fuel line. This will stabalized the gauge. Hell you can get a cheap water pressure guage $10.00 hose another $3.00, barbs $3.00 and the snubber for aprox., $20 ( he's having a sale right now ) For a total of $36 to test fuel pressure. Another thing, your fuel pickup in the tank could be plugged?? I'm cutting a access hole into the bed above my fuel inlet/pickup so I can pull if need be. Hate to drop the tank again to check that out. Your gonna have to work from tank forward to eliminate any down line problems. Also your metal fuel line could be cracked or have a pin hole. If you want qwick and dirty, cut all lines back to the tank and use diesel input and return rated hose.

Side note-Dose anyone know what the inlet (from tank) and outlet on the lift pump is? I would like the size and thread pitch. I'm pulling the pre heater/filter out and I'm tired of the diesel shower I'm getting. Beside this is the only driver I have. Thanks...

fourthandgoal

Good call on the snubber, I'll probably pick that and a cheap gauge up. I was trying to avoid paying $80+ for a tapped banjo + pressure gauge, that sounds just right.

In addition to the OEM LP I already have, I just did order all new fuel lines, OFV, fuel solenoid relay, plunger and skirt, starter contacts, and a couple other things from Larry B.

Given that the truck is parked 2.5 hours away in the middle of nowhere (i.e. if there's a tool/part I need and I don't take it with me I'm SOL), I'm going to try to replace everything that could be the problem (within reason) all at once. Can't afford to take the time to go out there and not leave with a running truck.

I'll also do as you suggest and drop the tank to make sure all is clear and see if I can't jury-rig my sending unit into working again while I'm at it. To that end, in your (or anyone else's) experience would it be easier to drop the tank or lift the bed? I have a tractor and chains out there that'd probably facilitate the latter

TheWaterman1000

If you have little fuel. It would be easyer to drop the tank. I use rope around the tank and over the frame. Once the hose and strap's are released I can lower the tank. But do make sure you have little to no fuel. I goofed and wound up lowering 35gal by myself. As to the fuel hose. I cut the one's going into and out of the tank. Fitted tight barbs. If you want to do this fast and have a open bed. You can cut the line's and plumb into a fuel can or boat tank as I did. Tie, Tie It secure and drive to a better area to work on. If that turn out to be the problem. Rob told me their OFV where better and the seat would not wear out fast as the other's. Waiting for the one I have now to go south.

I know able being out in the middle bum, f*&K egypt.. That's why the local auto/truck supplied don't have a problem when I come In and buy a load of part's and acce's.. Just make sure they are clean and can go back on the shelf and I've had no problems returning some parts that are not "returnable". Best and good luck...

9812vram

Has anybody read this post???
You guys are over complicating the whole thing.
Air in the lines, gelled fuel, plugged pickup sock or pickup line, OFV, IP, etc etc etc has all been eliminated with this one simple test! (and previously replacing the fuel filter) Lift pump dos not pump fuel with engine cranking but does pump fuel with the primer. Cause -> Lift Pump Toast. It's that easy.

fourthandgoal: a little 9812vram opinion coming your way here-> You're wasting your time changing all that other stuff on the road. It's all a great idea to change up, it's good maintenance don't get me wrong, just not on the road. Change your lift pump, prime the fuel system and drive your rig home where you have ALL your tools. You already know what the problem is.

That's exactly why I wouldn't encourage you to do all that work on the road unless you HAVE to... I do service calls to the field all the time and even on the simplest jobs you almost always forget to bring SOMETHING. Doesn't mean you can't still get the job done, but it may take much longer or make a simple task very difficult.

When I changed my fuel lines and fuel sending unit, I found it very connvenient to pull the box off and slide the front of that tank over a couple inches. (I had a full tank of fuel) Took about 20min to get the box off and made the rest of the job so much more enjoyable.

infidel

Rather than remove the box I find it easier to just tilt it.
Remove driver's side bed bolts, loosen the passenger side.
Disconnect tank fill and vent hoses.
Unplug light wiring.
One strong person can tilt the bed while a wimp props it up with a 2x4.
You only need to lift it about 18".

TheWaterman1000

Wow.. I have a tunnel cover, tools, compressor. It took me about the same time 20min., to craw under, clip the fuel line's, hang rope and secure, remove tank strap's, low, unclip wire. 25min since I had to splice the fuel line's back together. Oh, let's not forget the last owner banged bulk head of the bed into the rear of the cab. Loosen the hold down bolt's and I may have not been able to bolt the bed back down.
In short. he, and other's need to do what works for them. I agree about working in the field. I really hope the Lift pump or OFV, something cheap is the problem for this guy. Or in short, get another truck and flatbed it home.

Mrlou

Eliminate the fuel heater real easy they leak around the electrical connection do a search. Also u can pressurize the tank with about 5 psi and ck for leaks with soapy water in a sprayer. Modify a fuel cap so u can pressurize the tank look for infidels posts Bill definately knows his 12 valves has helped many times. Good luck you are in the right place for info on these trucks.

TheWaterman1000

Mr. 9812vram,
When you get your lift pump. Could check what the size and pitch for fuel inlet from the tank is and the same for the outlet. I'm going to plumb from the lift pump to the fuel filter and put a more accessible pre filter from the tank to the lift pump.

Eat Beef

EXACTLY! It could be the fuel heater leaking at the electrical connector. This would cause your system to suck air. This is what happened to mine. NO START! You won't notice a leak because it's not pressurized at that point , rather it's creating a vacuum and sucking air,not fuel.

TheWaterman1000

Some check by loading up the pre filter/heater plug with grease. I would use dialectric(sic), goop It into the plug. Plug It back in and see If you get a start after priming again. Any input on the inlet and outlet size on the lift pump?

9812vram

Hey Waterman,
Outlet is 3/8" pipe thread. The inlet has a brass bushing in it for the compression flare on the inlet line. No idea what the pitch/dimensions for this guy are, but if you take the bushing out (that's what I did) I believe it was 3/4" pipe. Could have been 1/2" but I'm quite certain it was 3/4". My old pump's not with me so I gotta wait 'till tonight to get the inlet spec for sure.

I used a 3/8" barb on the outlet and a reducer to use the same 3/8" barb on the inlet.

TheWaterman1000

Thanks for the start. This will help when I go into town for part's.. I buy all that I think I will need and take back what I don't use. The auto part store's/truck supplies know I do this and don't complain. I return item in clean and resale condition. Better to have extra than not...

9812vram

Waterman,
I had a chance to look at my old lift pump last night and confirm my numbers:
No bushing to remove on the inlet. I was confused from another project. Remove the elbow from the inlet.
Inlet (elbow removed) - 1/2" Pipe Thread
Outlet - 1/4" Pipe Thread
Sorry for the wrong numbers before....

infidel

Do yourself a favor and pick up a pair of 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch studs with nuts to replace the stock bolts.
Makes the job 500 times easier.