TheWaterman1000

VRam has a plan. People don't reialize how much air can get into the system on just minor work. I.. I... mean It can almost make a grown man cry in fustration, launch all scarate impliments into surounding vegitaion or maybe low earth orbit. Or maybe just step back and apply 12oz of magic elixer to your lips for some surene relaxation. Hick..Up.. I think I partake a little to much. Can I see G's pic's to see if It might be beneficial to change how I removed the pre heater/filter to bypass into the LP directly.

9812vram

Whatever makes ya feel better I'm just glad it's not just me that runs into that kind of thing now and then

9812vram

Here y'are! I don't have a pic of the fuel heater as complete other than the diagram I posted earlier....

TheWaterman1000

Living and working out in the middle of nowhere can do that to you some times. Nearest N.not. A.all. P.parts A. avialible is 40miles each way.

TheWaterman1000

Thanks, looks like the one I had. I removed the compleat unit. And use a in line fuel filter.

9812vram

Hey Waterman, here's a pic of what I built for mine. Removed pre-heater completely and installed this in place of the oem filter.

Don't know if I can do it this way or not but I'll try just about anything once...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...7&d=1314384384

TheWaterman1000

That rock's look like I'll set this up also. Do you more info on how you hooked it up. No sense in reinventing the wheel... Like the double filter.

9812vram

Two Cummins Filter Bases with 1/2" ports - PN 393061800-S
One 10 Micron Fleet Guard Water Separator Filter PN FS1001 as the primary
One 2 Micron Fleet Guard Filter PN FF5320 as the secondary.
I don't have a part number for the brass check valve on the inlet.
Check valve on the injector return was removed due to brain fart - with the other check valve in place there's no need for it

As far as I know, the original Cummins filter is 10 microns - not good enough for this Cowboy.
I completely removed all stock fuel lines (and replaced with 3/8" and 5/16" marine grade diesel hose), so as far as banjo's to connect up the IP, I went to my local Farm and Bearing store and purchased the appropriate sized banjo's with barbed ends to accommodate my new hoses. I couldn't get the injector return banjo size so I cut the banjo off the steel injector return line and slid rubber fuel hose over it and the barb sticking out the RH side of the setup in the pic. I believe that barb was 1/8". Other than that just assorted brass pipe fittings to join it all together.

Reason for the tap on top: I stick a hose on the nipple of the water separator filter drain. Then I open this top tap and the the water drain. Both filters drain down into a container and I can remove them without a mess. If the fuel I drained out is waterless and clean, I pour it back in the tank.
After changing filters, I leave the top tap open and pump the hand primer with a broom handle till fuel comes out - close tap - couple more primes - done! Truck fires up as if nothing happened.

I really should get my pics together and do a writeup.

TheWaterman1000

Still looks good. I would make sure I have a shut off valve on both side to keep fuel lose to a min., as well as air bleeding. Off to the store. I have some big filter's for my tanker, and a small final. Woops here I go again. Was thinking of putting a coolant filter into my truck also. Not very expensive and some have additives to help prevent rust and avoid silicate problems in big truck's. Wonder IF I should be concerned with this in the cummins. Any thing to keep the crap out of the cooling system.

9812vram

Good idea. I didn't incorporate that on mine because I mounted these suckers in the same spot as the old one. It's tight but it's the highest part in my fuel system so the fuel doesn't bleed anywhere and the air stays up top where the tap is.
Oh ya, I also used a clear fuel hose from the filters to the IP in case I ever wanted to see if I was getting air in the lines.

That I couldn't tell ya....

TheWaterman1000

The heater hose's looks like It can be used to tap the coolant filter In. One more job up on the white board to do :-)

infidel

Not necessary at all on a B series Cummins because they don't cavitate thus don't need the chemicals.
No real need to filter coolant either as long as you keep up with changing it every once in a while.

TheWaterman1000

I understand your point infidel, just trying to be a little green.

fourthandgoal

that is beautiful!


back out on the ol' farm with some more supplies and vigor. soon as the sun comes all the way up and burns the frost off everything I'll get crackin' on it