trying to understand the in-tank fuel setup
trying to understand the in-tank fuel setup
so ive run into a bit of a problem on my truck. i dont know if it's a parts issue or an understanding issue on my part. heres what i got.
my truck had rusted and leaking fuel lines ontop of the tank. so i bought the Draw Straw I from vulcan performance, with three holes. i also purchased rubber line to go from the tank to the IP and the return line from the filter assembly to the tank, as well as needed plastic and brass fittings.
keep in mind im NOT running an aftermarker pump/air fuel separator yet. just doing plumbing
what im running into is three things
- when you install the draw straw, do u have to modify the screen area at all? it says you do when you use an aftermarket pump but i am not, and i would need to keep the filtration.
-also do i just clip and remove the current lines completely from the fuel module? it looks as though one runs to the middle of the bowl area at the bottom of the module, my draw straw will not reconnect to that as it is the hard plastic type.
-lastly when i run my lines to the fuel filter housing area, i was sold push type plastic fitting and brass fittings, from what i can see i have some banjo bolts and my bleeder bold that i would assue be replace by fittings, so if i dont have an air separator how would i bleed the system?
sorry for the long post i just had a slew of thoughts
my truck had rusted and leaking fuel lines ontop of the tank. so i bought the Draw Straw I from vulcan performance, with three holes. i also purchased rubber line to go from the tank to the IP and the return line from the filter assembly to the tank, as well as needed plastic and brass fittings.
keep in mind im NOT running an aftermarker pump/air fuel separator yet. just doing plumbing
what im running into is three things
- when you install the draw straw, do u have to modify the screen area at all? it says you do when you use an aftermarket pump but i am not, and i would need to keep the filtration.
-also do i just clip and remove the current lines completely from the fuel module? it looks as though one runs to the middle of the bowl area at the bottom of the module, my draw straw will not reconnect to that as it is the hard plastic type.
-lastly when i run my lines to the fuel filter housing area, i was sold push type plastic fitting and brass fittings, from what i can see i have some banjo bolts and my bleeder bold that i would assue be replace by fittings, so if i dont have an air separator how would i bleed the system?
sorry for the long post i just had a slew of thoughts

Maybe this will help> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...tallation.html
i have read that article. My module is different from the one depicted. My module has a lower half thats metal, and my wupply and return line do two coils down to the basket.
so ive run into a bit of a problem on my truck. i dont know if it's a parts issue or an understanding issue on my part. heres what i got.
my truck had rusted and leaking fuel lines ontop of the tank. so i bought the Draw Straw I from vulcan performance, with three holes. i also purchased rubber line to go from the tank to the IP and the return line from the filter assembly to the tank, as well as needed plastic and brass fittings.
keep in mind im NOT running an aftermarker pump/air fuel separator yet. just doing plumbing
what im running into is three things
- when you install the draw straw, do u have to modify the screen area at all? it says you do when you use an aftermarket pump but i am not, and i would need to keep the filtration.
I'm not overly familiar with that particular draw straw, as I bought the in tank module from Pureflow, which is essentially a plastic drawstraw that drops into the module, but if installs similar, I didn't have to do anything to the screen itself. What i did do, was drill a hole where the drawstraw mounted, through the bottom of the fuel basket, that allowed the drawstraw to sit inside the screen area, about 1/8 in above the bottom. However, I also drilled out a few holes in the sides, towards the bottom, since they said that with low fuel applications, if fuel can't get into the basket, you could run into fuel pickup issues. I'm running an Airdog 150 though, so filtration's a bit better than stock. Honestly, I'd do it anyway, so that you don't have to go back and do it again later, and just keep an eye on your fuel filter.
-also do i just clip and remove the current lines completely from the fuel module? it looks as though one runs to the middle of the bowl area at the bottom of the module, my draw straw will not reconnect to that as it is the hard plastic type.
My instructions were to clip the fuel supply line, which should be the one going all the way down, as that line was going to become my fuel return line for the airdog. Plus, you won't need a supply line anyway, since you're installing a new one.
-lastly when i run my lines to the fuel filter housing area, i was sold push type plastic fitting and brass fittings, from what i can see i have some banjo bolts and my bleeder bold that i would assue be replace by fittings, so if i dont have an air separator how would i bleed the system?
bleeding the system is going to be done the old fashioned way...you'll use your motor to run your mechanical lift pump, to pull fuel from the tank to the lift pump, and then feed it to the injection pump. It'll probably run like crap, since there will be air in the lines, but once you get that air up and out, it should smooth out. If it's the stock lift pump, I'd just make sure that your filter housing has fuel in it, so that it kind of helps prime the pump. You also just crack a few injector lines loose, not all the way off, and bleed the air out that way. I've never had to loosen 1-3, but I know some guys have needed to loosen all 6.
sorry for the long post i just had a slew of thoughts

my truck had rusted and leaking fuel lines ontop of the tank. so i bought the Draw Straw I from vulcan performance, with three holes. i also purchased rubber line to go from the tank to the IP and the return line from the filter assembly to the tank, as well as needed plastic and brass fittings.
keep in mind im NOT running an aftermarker pump/air fuel separator yet. just doing plumbing
what im running into is three things
- when you install the draw straw, do u have to modify the screen area at all? it says you do when you use an aftermarket pump but i am not, and i would need to keep the filtration.
I'm not overly familiar with that particular draw straw, as I bought the in tank module from Pureflow, which is essentially a plastic drawstraw that drops into the module, but if installs similar, I didn't have to do anything to the screen itself. What i did do, was drill a hole where the drawstraw mounted, through the bottom of the fuel basket, that allowed the drawstraw to sit inside the screen area, about 1/8 in above the bottom. However, I also drilled out a few holes in the sides, towards the bottom, since they said that with low fuel applications, if fuel can't get into the basket, you could run into fuel pickup issues. I'm running an Airdog 150 though, so filtration's a bit better than stock. Honestly, I'd do it anyway, so that you don't have to go back and do it again later, and just keep an eye on your fuel filter.
-also do i just clip and remove the current lines completely from the fuel module? it looks as though one runs to the middle of the bowl area at the bottom of the module, my draw straw will not reconnect to that as it is the hard plastic type.
My instructions were to clip the fuel supply line, which should be the one going all the way down, as that line was going to become my fuel return line for the airdog. Plus, you won't need a supply line anyway, since you're installing a new one.
-lastly when i run my lines to the fuel filter housing area, i was sold push type plastic fitting and brass fittings, from what i can see i have some banjo bolts and my bleeder bold that i would assue be replace by fittings, so if i dont have an air separator how would i bleed the system?
bleeding the system is going to be done the old fashioned way...you'll use your motor to run your mechanical lift pump, to pull fuel from the tank to the lift pump, and then feed it to the injection pump. It'll probably run like crap, since there will be air in the lines, but once you get that air up and out, it should smooth out. If it's the stock lift pump, I'd just make sure that your filter housing has fuel in it, so that it kind of helps prime the pump. You also just crack a few injector lines loose, not all the way off, and bleed the air out that way. I've never had to loosen 1-3, but I know some guys have needed to loosen all 6.
sorry for the long post i just had a slew of thoughts



so thats what i have as far as the stock setup
i clipped the old supply line that went down into the screen, no big deal, the problem now is that that little coil line that does to the module top and is capped off is preventing it from sitting verticle, PLUS the issue of

the draw straw ALSO wont be in the middle of the module to go down into that hole where the old setup did.

whatta ya guys think?
Edit....
I just realized the problem. you have a drawstraw I, which is designed to have a hole drilled in the top of the tank, and then the drawstraw goes in the hole, and end of story. BUT, what you're trying to do is use it as the in tank fuel module replacement pickup tube. Won't work. There's a lot more to the fuel module pickup tube than just the drawstraw and gasket.
I just realized the problem. you have a drawstraw I, which is designed to have a hole drilled in the top of the tank, and then the drawstraw goes in the hole, and end of story. BUT, what you're trying to do is use it as the in tank fuel module replacement pickup tube. Won't work. There's a lot more to the fuel module pickup tube than just the drawstraw and gasket.
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Dennhop- ouch.........so now that i clipped that line what do i do???? I dont understandwhy my drawstraw doesnt have any gaskets or attachment hardware. Also ive looked at and considered an airdog fuel system and IF it will solve my problems i will get it. I was just trying to save the cost
Dennhop- ouch.........so now that i clipped that line what do i do???? I dont understandwhy my drawstraw doesnt have any gaskets or attachment hardware. Also ive looked at and considered an airdog fuel system and IF it will solve my problems i will get it. I was just trying to save the cost
After doing some digging, trying to figure out what's going on, you are correct, and I had my versions mixed up. The Drawstraw I was the in tank fuel moule replacement, while the Drawstraw II was the standalone. so no worries, you're on the right path, I'm the idiot. (Forgive the typos if there are any...I had a brand new Gerber knife decide itr didn't want towork like it was supposed to, and try and take my index finger off last nigfht...)
If youre still baffled, try getting in touch with this guy, over on Idaho Turbodiesel Forums, Fishing2deep4u.
http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5802
IIRC, he works for Vulcan, and knows all about the Drawstraws. He may be able to help you out more.
this was the porject I was working on when I cut it...

After.


/Hijack. Back on topic
no i havent hard anything back yet from dave. apparently he doesnt work at vulcan performance anymore. but i did talk to eric and he gave me alot of good info. hopefully ill have this thing back together on sunday. ill post as i get the module back together
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE STOCK SUPPLY AND RETURN LINES GO INTO THE FUEL FILTER HOUSING????????? I cant connect them directly to the IP because i need my lines to hit the filter housing as id ont have any other inline filter



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