Turns over fast but won't start. I noticed right away after I popped the hood that the line (wastegate) that goes to the turbo is broken in half. The very end of the wastegate line near the turbo was blocked off by the previous owner. I re-blocked the line off but still won't start. Is it something else? How do you prime these things. This is my first diesel. Thanks, Sonny

 

More than likely your full return line is leaking. It can leak in air without leaking fuel out and will have to be replaced eventually on 100% of 12 valves. If you contine cranking for a long time or keep your tank full it will probably start.
You will need about two feet of 5/16'' diesel rated hose, a couple
of clamps and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. It is availible as a
kit here for $14.95> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water
temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the
fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum
assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that
hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the
drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster and it
moves easier than it looks.
To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays with
their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it.
Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also
completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down
by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident.
The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at.
Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can
really see the line is right past the hold clamps a few inches forward of
the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of
the job has to be done by feel with one hand.

 

Great instruction, Infidel! Admin, this should e added to the FAQ.

 

Ok, update...... I had my wife start the truck at the same time I pushed up that rod where the fuel shut solenod is. It immediately started right up!! What steps should I take now? Thanks again and thanks Infidel for that great diagram. Sonny

 

Also the rubber boot where the plunger-rod is located is all rotten under the solenod.

 

Ok.... Another update: When the key is on the plunger on the shutoff will stay up on its own if I push on it but will NOT activate on its own. When I turn the key off the plunger will drop on its own. Now what should I look at? Thanks

 

Solenoid problem is most often a corroded blue fusible link or bad relay. Blue link runs from driver's side battery positive to the relay. It usually rots right at the battery. If the solenoid boot is gone the plunger might be gunked up and need cleaning. Be careful, an intact boot is what holds it together, parts may fly when you remove the linkage. I make new boots from a section of bicycle inner tube and two cable ties, last longer than the $30 ones from Cummins.

Wiring diagram, click on arrow icon to enlarge http://www.fostertruck.com/images/Ram_wire_diagram.jpg

Replacement relay> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

I concure with Infidel.

db

 

Thanks, could I put power to the "pull" side of the plunger for split second to see if it pulls up? That way I would know if it is sticking or if the rod pulls up with a shot of power it would have to be either the relay or the fuse-link up by the battery.

 

Using a positive wire is an excellent way to trace the problem backwards from the solenoid. Use large wire, the solenoid lift up draws a lot of amps, I've had it melt the insulation off 3 feet of 18 ga automotive wire in less than a second.

 

OK, I put power to the fuel shut-off solenoid and it goes up like... BAM!!! Also I have power past that fuse-link. So in between the fuse-link and the working fuel shut-off is the fuel relay I guess? So the only option now would be replacing the fuel shut-off relay that I found on the firewall? That would only make sence wouldn't it? The rubber boot that covers the plunger is shot so I need a new one of those too. Sonny

 

Sounds like the relay, might want to try jumping around it to see if it may be the wiring instead. The trigger signal for the relay actually comes off your starter contacts so there is one more wire and a couple of connections that can fail.
I've never tried it but some people take the relay apart and clean the contacts up. This will probably get you going till you get a relay.
The site I linked to> www.fostertruck.com has a good price on the relay and sells the boots also. I perfer the bike inner tube method myself, in fact they used to sell them on that site but I think it was more of a joke directed towards me.

 

One more thing to try: the contacts in the relay holder are prone to corrode/burn. Try cleaning them.

 

Smokee, Is the relay easy to get apart? Or is its sealed. Do you just pry it? Thanks for all the help so far.

 

I bought a new relay knowing it was probly the solenoid (rare being the solenoid as mentioned--lucky me) but I like to have a spare in the jocky box.
If it's not the relay or the connections then the only other thing is the contacts in the starter itself, however, the only time that I've heard of these failing is in the "closed" position thus causing the solenoid to burn up.
I would go to a auto supply & get yourself a 12 volt test light & perform tests to both the control and load sides of the relay .
You know the solenoid itself pulls up so I would do the following with a test light.

- pull the relay & see if there is power to the side of the socket from the blue fuseable link. if ok then
-while cranking test the socket for power from the control voltage from the starter.

if both tests ok then the relay is most likely shot. Like I said I'd get a relay anyway & use it as a spare if it doen't fix it.

good luck

db