My transmission has only 30,000 miles on it since rebuild, My converter can't hold a 10 plate slid halfway foward with 215 injectors. I was told by several transmission shops that the transmission internal are still probably good, and I would just need to upgrade a vb and converter. So, a buddy of mine has a RV converter but cant remember the name, or find the parts list, and that converter holds really good was only a couple hundred bucks. Im on a budget so, I dont want to spend 1300 dollars on a converter. Anyone done a budget build with good success, and know of some part #.

Dave

 

You will be lucky if tranny is not toasted already.

 

Its better if you can swing it to go rebuilt with upgraded TC and VB

 

hi
stick a transgo tfod-diesel kit in it and see how it works .

the kit will increase the holding preasure and may cure the prob ,and you will only have app $100.00 cost with new fluid and filter !

 

Whats the difficulty on the transgo kit to install, the transmission guys at the local shops said its way to difficult for someone to do it by themselves, for some reason i think they are full of beans

What do you guys think? Id be happy to install one, i need to do a fluid/ filter change anyways

Dave

 

If you've already slipped the lock up clutch... a new converter is in your picture. Increased line pressure will not fix glazed friction material.

What is a RV converter? I get suspicious of sales terms as "RV", "Biggest converter we got"; "heavy duty"; etc. If it doesn't have lower stall and increased fluid coupling, it is still a pig in a poke. Get something where you know the source.

A VB kit is scary the first time. Follow the directions and you will succeed.

 

I put the TransGo TFOD-Diesel shift kit in my 97's tranny, just make sure you have a clean work area and take your time. There are many small parts that can be lost but if installed correctly it makes a very nice improvement. Before starting mine I called TransGo, told them about the truck and mods I have planned for it and got their advice on every step there was a choice to make. They are a bit hard to get a hold of on the phone but very helpful once you do.

 

Sounds good, how much did you pay for the kit? What kind of install time did it take?

 

Transgo kits usually run about $75 with a new separator plate, which you'll need (ebay). Also get a heavy duty 2nd gear band strut, aluminum accumulator piston and maybe even a front servo cover while you're at it (http://www.transmissionsone.com/). There's 5 check ***** in the valve body which can be lost. Take the vb apart slowly cause you don't know which side the check ***** will be resting on. My best advice is to just follow the directions that came with the kit. Every kit is different and configured to work correctly with the way it was designed. Next advice... Careful with the electrical connector that sticks out of the tranny. Make sure the pins are really straight before re-installing the vb. The pins break really easily (I learned the hard way). Last advice, you need some type of bent tweezers or something to get that e-clip back on. I'd say that was probably the hardest part of the whole thing for me trying to do it with needle nose pliers.

I wouldn't expect to have it done all in one day for your first time, although it is possible. I took my time and spent one day pulling the vb, installing it over a few days, and then putting it back.

 

Do those added parts along with the transgo kit make the transmission shift/perform a whole lot better?

 

You pretty much have to get a 2nd gear band strut. Without it, your stock one will bend under higher drive pressures. When you pull your valvebody, you'll notice that the stock accumulator piston is plastic (yes plastic). So upgrading to a double ring aluminum one definitely won't hurt. The front servo cover also has an extra sealing ring in it. The latter two mods are for added sealing protection. If you have internal fluid leaks, you won't know. You want everything to be as leakproof as possible to prolong tranny life. Actually, if you dish out the money for a full billet front servo it's probably best but pricey.

 

So i take that you are satisfied with those upgrades? My transmission is still pretty tight, just in od it seems to fall a little short.

Dave

 

The other upgrades are probably recommended when installing the shift kit, but I did the kit alone and am happy with the results. The shifts are much quicker and firmer without being hard. When I dropped the valve body I left the park rod attached and reinserted it the same way, the rod dropped right in so no messing with the clip.

My kit came from Oregon Performance Transmissions on eBay, Where ever you get it from look for one that says "Upgraded - Includes Separator Plate" that way you'll get the latest version. I spent all day Saturday and part of Sunday on it, a pro would be much quicker but I just wanted to get it right. Take your time and read carefully, check the parts twice to make sure your putting all the parts in the correct locations.

 

Yeah I'm real satisfied with them. I need to get a more efficient TC though. I pulled the VB out again last week though. I drilled the holes out too big and the shifts were way too firm. That's why I say just follow the directions that come with whatever kit you get.