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Trans problem

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Old 01-13-2010, 08:12 AM
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When I said cas I meant the engine speed sensor.
Old 01-13-2010, 09:05 AM
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Also whats the best way for setting the gap on the crankshaft position sensor? I found some info about using a credit card but it wasnt very detailed.
Old 01-13-2010, 09:38 AM
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I should have looked at the first photo. Too many TLAs for the same part. (Three Letter Acronyms)
Without the engine speed sensor your tach will not work; the alternator may or may not charge the batteries; overdrive and the converter lock-up will not function.

The airgap between the CPS (ESS, CAS, etc.) and the damper is 0.050". Brass feeler gauge or a credit card
Old 01-13-2010, 10:00 AM
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Ok, thanks the truck is not charging and the engine dies when accelerating if i let of the throttle . It does not do it at idle only when under load. Do you know what might be causing this isue. I figured I would get the motor running proprerly so i can future diagnose the trans.
Old 01-13-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by torquefan
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Your stalling problem sounds like the idle is just set a bit too low. Easy fix. Should be about 900 RPM warm in park.
There are some sticky posts with common troubleshooting
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t121533.html
Here is a great site for lots of info www.dodgeram.org
Old 01-22-2010, 10:03 AM
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Changed the ESS but still no tach and overdrive button still not working, any ideas?
Old 01-22-2010, 10:19 AM
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I also drove it around the block and i could not feel the trans shift, I fixed the connector but the truck still feels like its in high gear while in drive, but not when i put it in 1
Old 01-24-2010, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Rks1
Changed the ESS but still no tach and overdrive button still not working, any ideas?
Double check your air gap on the sensor.
Have you hooked up a scan tool?
Old 01-24-2010, 12:59 AM
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I will double check in the morning, but the truck does seem to be charging now.
Old 01-24-2010, 08:35 AM
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Could a bad pcm be causing this problem?
Old 01-24-2010, 09:39 AM
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Possible. That why a scan is a good place to start. Blink codes are nice for something easy, but you can check dynamic function with a full up scan tool.
I would disconnect and reconnect the PCM connectors. Go to the PDC and look for blown fuses, missing relays, & loose wiring. Use the FSM to start tracing wires.

Battery charging means the PCM is at least partially working. It is supposed to use a ESS signal before powering the field, but on my truck it triggers off the ignition switch.
Old 01-24-2010, 10:18 AM
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Yeah , im still waiting for my fsm to come in so im working in the dark without it. Where's a good place to get a good scan tool I tried to check blink codes but im not seeing a check engine light come on in the cluster. I need a chart that displays all the fuse's and relays that way I can tell whats missing and what fuses are in the wrong spots.
Old 01-24-2010, 10:19 PM
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I was hoping someone would add a comment about a scan tool.
I use my neighbor's Snap-On.

Pointing more and more to wiring/connector failures if you don't have any dash lights, too.
Old 01-25-2010, 11:19 AM
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I rechecked the gab in the crank sensor today and no change plus the truck is not charging. Is there anyone in the Houston, Texas area that might be able to atke a look at the truck and give me an opinion or know of a good diesel shop.
Old 01-26-2010, 08:45 AM
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Tranny Issue

Hey there, are your batteries charging? I had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad PCM. But, don't panic if it is. I took my truck to the Dodge dealership and the tranny guy there saved me a lot of cash. He used a jumper wire and connected the lower alternator post with the upper one. And, he called STAR (Chrysler's service division) and they approved that as an alternative to purchasing a new PCM in my case. He said the PCM would still regulate the voltage. Don't ask me how cause it made no sense to me. Maybe someone with more knowlege than me will chime in for you. Hope this helps. Good luck!


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