Hello<br> O.K. call me stupid but I am confused I purchased the snapon sp500 timing tool kit to set and advance my pump to engine timing. I also have have the haynes dodge book with the timing procedure in it. However the instructions for timing and the dial indicatoir being used seem different. I also downloaded one set of instructions from Genos. It seems that the dial indicators being used are different. They mention a miller tool set and it seems to work differently than the snap on????? I would appreciate any advice on the subject. I want to fully understand the readings on the dial indicator before i time my engine and pump. I am concerned becuase this dial indicator does not look like a regular dial indicator when I recieved my timing set there was no literature explaining the readings on the set itself. Thanks TY

 

please describe the indicator. Basically as far as i know all indicataors are the same except for maybe metric to US reading. your indicator should have 2 needles on it a small one almost in the middle and the large one on the outside. The small needle will tell u the number of revolutions the big needle makes. Depending on how u r supposed to set the timing, im not familiar with the precedure u need a starting point. u should be able to rotate the bezel of the indicator to zero it then go from there.
Dan

I just viewed to tool u purchased it says it is an add on kit for another which is 1200.00 are u sure you have all the necessary pieces to set the tool?

 

See if this helps on Dave Fritz's site. He has fanatastic step by step &quot;how to's&quot;. A great guy.<br>Timing of P7100

 

Hey<br> What is different about the dial indicator is that the readings on the inner dial are differnet. On the one used in the example the inner dial is numbered from 1-10, however on mine it is numbered from 0-28 and the directions tell me that the inner dial should rotate twice as the outer dial goes through its full range. My inner dial only goes around once as the outer dial goes through its full range. However my outer dial is marked in increments of .01 mm which means that one full revolution makes two mm . I also looked at the info froms Daves site and thanks alot for the link. I looked at my dial indicator though and studied the info from Daves site and i figured out how it works, When you find the plungers lowest point you zero the indicator then rotate the engine clockwise until you get the dsired setting that you want then you pull the gear and put the engine back on #1. then you put it back to gether and check it. I am in college so i have not had a lot of time to sit down and work this out, however now it is clear how the procedure works. Thanks alot guys and i am sure it will go well i really appreciate the information. Ty

 

zspear1,

Let me fill you in on a few pointers before you do this. I've done about 7 timings since the first of the year so I'm pretty familiar with the process.

First, use a regular barring tool. Trying to use the bolt on the alternator will be a problem since you can only rotate the engine backwards reliably. Going forward, the pully slips. You have to be able to rotate the engine forward and backward.

Second, don't rely on the timing pin on the pump for TDC. It can be off by a degree or more, just due to slop, even. The best way is to us the exhaust valve in cylinder 1. Make a marker out of a piece of coat hanger wire by wrapping around an oil pan bolt and bending it to be a pointer on the bottom of your crank damper. Find TDC reasonably close, then rotate the engine back about 1/4 rev. Loosen the nut on the valve adjustment screw and screw the adjustment down about 5 revs to push the valve in. Then carefully rotate the engine till the piston bumps up against the valve (have someone with their finger on the rocker to feel it, just so you'll know when you get there; don't worry, you'd have to really force it to bend it). Mark the damper at your pointer. Rotate backward around about 1 rotation till you bump up against the valve again. Mark the damper. Half way in between your marks is TDC. For reference, the distance between the 2 marks has typically been about 95mm for me. Back away from the valve and reset the lash to spec (.020mm).

Third, once you've installed the dial, checked your current timing setting and are ready to reset it, rotate the engine backward until the plunger is at it lowest point, then remove the nut and pull the gear. Don't pull it where you are trying to set it. The shock can cause the pump to move. Once it's pulled, shoot brake cleaner between the shaft and the gear liberally, then used compressed air to dry it (use a single puller bolt screwed into one of the holes in the gear to move the gear front to back while shooting cleaner and air). Do this about 3 times. This removes any oil that seeps in between after you pull the gear.

Put the nut on and snug the gear to about 5 lbs. That's enough to hold it. Now rotate up to where you want the pump set at. Pull the gear again. The shock will be much less and the pump may not move at all. Rotate back before TDC, then up to TDC to remove gear lash. Now snug the nut to about 5 lbs. Rotate back to needle-zero, then up to TDC to check your setting. If all is good, torque the nut to spec (abt. 150 lbs).

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a pencil magnet on the end of the pump shaft when removing/installing the lock washer and nut on the shaft. You don't want to drop either inside or you will be pulling the case cover.

Finally, before taking ANY reading on the dial, tap the plunger shaft on the top of the dial. The top of the pump plunger is not flat and the tip of the dial plunger is not always seated at it's lowest point. The needle may move when you tap it.

Take care when you remove the delivery valve holder and the delivery valve. Take note of the order and orientation of the parts. Use the pencil magnet and a dental pick if needed to get the parts and shims out.

Other that that, it's a piece of cake!

-Jay

 

Jay<br> Thaks for all the good tips and tricks that I did not know about. You philosphy on the subject will make it alot easier to advance and set my timing I appreciate it thanks agian. Ty

 

PUMP LIFT SETTING BASE ENGINE TIME (DEGREES)
5.4 mm 11.0
5.5 mm 11.5
5.6 mm 12.0
5.7 mm 12.5
5.8 mm 13.0
5.9 mm 13.5


The above numbers are from the spec sheets, if I want 16* timing is it safe to guess that I should have 6.4 millimeters? Where can I find a metric dial indicator? did you just convert inches to MM?

 

Mcmopar , check this out it should answer your ? :

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm

 

Thank you, with my engine 6.4 would have been a BIG problem!!!