stirpicult

still ticks in the upper RPMs. could this be something much worse??? i get to around 2.2k or so, 75% throttle and it sounds like i am rolling around a jar of pennies. did the lift pump and filter today, noise went down a little, but not completely.
also, i am having a hard time getting the truck to start (after FF and LP). sometimes it starts on the first turn, sometimes it takes 2-3 minutes of 5-15 second cranks. what's the deal with this fuel shutoff solenoid?
any good write-ups with PICTURES of a manual shutoff??

thanks.

edit: to cover some questions...
once it fires up, it fires up...no stumbling. before the lift pump it would idle low, but that was in the mornings (around 30-40 degrees). as i search more, i will cover any other questions i can find.
edit2: starts fine now. maybe working out the last bit of whatever after the LP install.

Wicked500R

I have the high rpm tick also.. Mine will do it the most and loudest accelerating on the highway. It's starting to drive me nuts... I'm thinking it might be the injectors, or possibly something inside the IP...

stirpicult

IP troubles is what i am fearing. it doesn't come up a lot on here. mine is loudest in the lower gears, though. once it looks in 4th it quiets down.

Wicked500R

Mine is the loudest when I put the pedal down at highway speed and with the windows rolled up...it sounds like I am driving an old beater car with an exhaust leak..quite annoying

stirpicult

anybody have a clue? we can't be the only 2 who have this problem, or have had this problem.

impmouse

i have a ticking noise when the truck is sitting still and idiling ,,, then it would go away and come back ???????????

stirpicult

i have searched and searched on here. all i can come up with, besides ROD KNOCK!! is overflow valve, valves too tight, and some sort of transmission problem.

would either of the first 2 cause rapid ticking while throttle is around 50-100% open???

Wicked500R

I know we can't be the only 2 momo's with this problem...I was kind of thinking valves too...But I was thinking loose valves clattering at high rpm. My gut is telling me it's the injectors...C'mon all you 12V guru's, step up to the plate! LOL

Hammer

Tick,Tick,Tick,Tick....

While one would most think its rods knocking it could actually be one or more different issues.Here are some to check....

-Cracked Exhaust manifold or blown/pushed out exhaust gaskets creating a exhaust leak which is heard more when the truck is cold or at higher boost pressures.
-Lift pump installed incorrectly or not properly retorqued.
-Overflow valve bypassing to much fuel due to it being weak.
-Loose or improperly adjusted valves.They should be at .010 intake/.020 exhaust done cold.Some guys have sucessfully used .008 intake/.018 exhaust but if your running a aftermarket cam I wouldn't reccomend it unless you check piston to valve clearance.

Someone mentioned "hard starting" and he had done a lift pump change already.I'd bet money on air compromising your fuel system causing the hard starts.Recheck all your hose connections and your fuel heater assembly as your letting air into the system which is cauing the hard start syndrome.If it was the shutdown solenoid it would either start or not start,nothing inbetween.

Hope that helps some.......Andy

stirpicult

how can you install it incorrectly? and what do you mean by retorqued?
thanks

~Angry Tractor~

There was a post on here several months ago about a tick and it turned out it was the no.1 piston. I think it was piston slap. For some reason only on no.1. What year is your truck?

~Angry Tractor~

Here is the thread I was talking about.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...k+tick+tick%22

megajoltman

I have this also comes and goes

Diesel Dave2

I have two OFV.One with a idle pressure of 22 PSI and another with a idle pressure of 35 PSI at idle.When I install the 35 psi OFV,I get way more tick from the LP.With the 22 PSI,you could hardly hear it...

Hammer

How can you install it incorrectly???
By placing them,the lift pump and fuel heater,back in the incorrect order.I have seen it done,its not easy but can be done.By retorquing I mean torque the hold down bolts to the proper torque specs and not over torque them or under torque them.

I wonder how they determined it was piston slap without dropping the pan or pulling the head off.........Andy