I own a F-250 PSD at the moment (late '97) but have my arrow pointed at a '97 12 valve 2500 4x4 long bed xcab. Same miles, same color, same condition.

What should I be looking for as I check out this truck?

Its got 138,000 miles on it.

I know about the KDP. But how do I know its raised its ugly head?

1)under the hood- is seeping oil front top of engine normal? (right above water pump)
2) auto trans- says he changed fluid regular
3)front diff- any concerns?
4)rear diff?

I read a thread a long time ago about there being a difference between the blocks on some 12 valves. The issue was one being much quieter than the other. Sound familiar?

Any help appreciated. I'll go over the old posts in the meantime and then check back.

Big Jimmy

 

the 53 blocks were a concern with cracking at water jackets, do a 53 search. welcome

 

Not on a 97....98-2001 were the years for the 53 block.

 

How would I check to see if mine is a 53 block? 98.4 12v

 

if i could do it all over again id be more patient and wait for a 5 speed manual trans.....u just get more power to the ground more consistently with it ....but if u ever get a built auto with a strong low stall torque converter then the world is yours....u will never ever in ur wildest dreams get as much power out of ur powerstroke as u will out of the cummins with some small change

 

big jimmy,

Hold out for a 24v with a 6spd ...........Shhhh i never told you that!!

WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE!!!

YOU CAN CHECK OUT ANYTIME YOU LIKE BUT YOU WILL NEVER LEAVE!!!

Rick

 

well if i had it to do all over again i would have bought a auto, i have been through 2 5 speeds and finally went to a 6 speed. and i am on my 4th clutch. and get a 12v over a 24v. sounds like it is a nice truck. a decent torque converter and a transgo **** kit will really wake that truck up. then a plate for some fun.

 

I would NOT get the transgo kit, get a good one from Dave Goerend or SMR (Pat Story).

 

Just be sure the seeping oil ISN'T the KDP. The water pump is to the left of the fan when facing the truck.

 

Whats the best way to do that? Do I have to take off the valve cover? Or if the vc is easy to remove, maybe I'll open that up while its being inspected.

Also, what about the rear diff? This truck spent some time under a 5th wheel. I read some posts about guys having to rebuild theirs- never heard of that on the dark side... and don't want to have that in future fixes.

Big Jimmy

 

I was not aware that Pat made anything for us Diesel guys. Cool that! Super Stock guy.


Don~

 

The SMR kit is really nice, he overcomes the high pressure thing with a "redesigned" shuttle valve-no need for the resistor or diode or voltage regulator. I have been impressed with both Pat and Dave. Both are great guys who will help you out and expalin things. Sometimes I wonder how they have the time!!

 

Also, what about the rear diff? This truck spent some time under a 5th wheel. I read some posts about guys having to rebuild theirs- never heard of that on the dark side... and don't want to have that in future fixes.

Big Jimmy[/QUOTE]


Usually, if there is metal grit in there, there is trouble. it should have a magnet on the inside of the rear diff. cover. some had magnetic plugs.

It's a messy job, you might want to take a look.

 

The only way to tell the kdp status is to pull the timing cover and look. Not hard to do just time consuming with all the stuff you need to move out of the way. The oil leak maybe just the front seal on the timing cover, which you will get with the kdp kit if you order one from TST.
As far as the rear diff it is a possibility it will need work as i had to rebuild mine after i bought it. It had 108,000 miles on it when i bought it and i rebuilt the diff around 130,000mi mark. The truck came with a 5er hitch and brakes so it obviously was a hauler. Been fine ever since (touching wood as i type this), wouldn't trade this rig for anything now it does everything i need and then some I will be rebuilding the tranny this spring as it slips the tc under high torque.

 

if the leak is between the timing case and the block, it can be a pain... you can try loosening the case from the block and squirting pooky back there to seal it up. the "right" way to do it is slide the pump back, remove the front of the truck, pull the cam out, and re-seal the case to the block

but, it might just be the cover gasket, which isn't a big deal