I wouldn't be too scared by an automatic. I too would prefer the standard but with minimal mods you can have a dependable auto as long as you don't go too far with power enhancements. My '96 has the original transmission and I tow up to 20K lb (thats trailer weight not combined weight) on occasion and 12 to 14K on a more regular basis. I also plow snow with it. You just need to change the oil and filter regularly and a trans temp guage if you aren't sure if you are overheating it. The only thing I've done that isn't in my sig. is raise the line pressures a bit. You would also need to start with a healthy transmission though.
The older Fords are pretty bullet proof. You would probably be happy with it.

 

How did you raise the line pressure?

 

On the drivers side of the valve body. If you do a search the is a nice picture that shows just where and how much your pressure will change (approximately) with a certain number of turns. I think there is a recent posting in this section that has the link.

 

the autos arent bad, jsut have to adjust to driving them. preffer a 5spd but my 98 12v with auto that is potentially sold provede to be a real solid combo for me. once i figured out how to wait fo rht etorque converter to lock up before rolling into the throttle and then locking it into a gear i had no problems towing with it. i should have put a lock up switch on it. but other than that i will miss that truck. 12vs are hard to beat for power and realiability. if it had been a stick and long bed i probably wouldnt have sold it but being a shortbed was its first no no and being a auto was another nail in the coffin of un happiness. down side mine ended up with a salvage title but that didnt bother me i knew the history hence why i bought it.

supposed to be meeting buyer for $9k on monday was asking $9900 and that seemed about on par for a salvage titled rig. mine had alot of add ons and was in really good shape mechanically and interior wise just the pain had blems after 207k miles lol. with 12vs you can have more confidence in higher mileage rigs just plan on some maitance like rebuilding a rear end, t-case or tranny otherwise not much else to worry about. mine the kid is getting a good deal it had the rear end, tranny and t-case all recently done so he should be good to go, i nocked price down for him because i noticed that the steering box was leaking and tha teh shocks were showing alittle wear. . compared to a power stroke or a 99-02 24v there is alot to be said for counting on a 12v to always start and run for you. i will say the ford drivetrain is pretty reliable and low maitnance from 94-97 so if you cant find a dodge thats another option stick with a 5 spd though. and with the Pstrokes plan on a highpressure oil pump going out from time to time as well as the injectors at around 150-200k, dual mass flywheel may give you some issues but is easily remidies and the fuel lines going into the top of the motor sometimes leak all easy fixes though.

 

Thanks Kevin, I was looking at a 96 Ford on SF craigslist...it was kinda far for met to get down to see during the week.
I've been scouring CList alright, and autotrader, and all the diesel ram forums...

 

Hey thanks everybody for the info!

I got to looking around for Fords, finding some good leads,

and then I stumbled onto a

98 Dodge 12v 3/4 ton 4x4 5sp quadcab
has the 4.10 rear end, but i'm not driving around town,
and I'm thinking I'll appreciate it pulling up the Sierra mountains

this was my dream dodge, but had given up getting one...

in pretty nice shape, 187K, clean bill of health from a dealer
( I'm generally not fond of dealers and avoid them for repairs!)

Haven't received it yet but the deal is sealed!
Had to pay a little more than my "max budget" of 10K, but
12,400 seemed ok compared to the prices I've seen them go
for in CA...maybe there are cheaper ones, but they are gone before I get there.

Now I gotta go start asking my questions..THANKS AGAIN

 

Sounds like a good deal. Pete

 

Thanks Pete,

its as much as I could pay (well, a leeetle more)
but I wouldn't OFFER somebody that for a truck like this..
(I mean, it might be taken offensively )

I've always seen them for quite a bit more...

had to go to Oklahoma to find this one

 

First, there is no substitute for a 12v Cummins.

Next, put a 2" leveling kit on that new-to-you 98 and run 285s or 315s to keep the RPMs down a bit and help with fuel economy. I am very pleased with the 4.10 gear/315 tire combination.

Sounds like a good find. Congratulations. If it as clean as it is described, I am sure that you will be happy with it.

 

Thanks, I'll be able to answer better when it arrives

Meanwhile, can anyone direct me a forum that lists
many of the possible mods in one place,
with the acronyms spelled out,
and maybe a brief description of what they do?

or at least where all the acronyms are spelled out,
so I know what I'm looking for!

I'm confused why pac brakes help a manual trans,

what the gear plate is and how/why you move it forward

how do I tell if my KDP has been fixed, and on and on..

I could read for weeks to get up to speed, which is ok
but it would help if I had some idea of what I"m reading.
Its all new to me.....

 

The Pacbrake is an exhaust brake. An exhaust brake does not help the manual transmission. It greatly aids in slowing or controlling the speed of the truck, especially with a load. By their very design, diesel engines cannot compression brake as can a gas engine, so the exhaust brake creates a restriction that allows a form of compression braking in addition to the truck's mechanical brakes.

As for the "gear plate", you are probably thinking of what is know as either a torque plate or a cam plate. The shape and position of it controls how much fuel the injection pump provides to the engine. More fuel = more power, you just need to tailor when and how much fuel is applied to achieve the power that you want.

Without any documentation or evidence of a bolt in the timing cover from the jog method having been used, there is really no way to discern whether or not the KDP has been addressed. It is really not a hard job to do, though.

 

thanks Greg,

I wanted a 5speed partly because I was looking for the compression to slow the truck when I backed off the pedal...

so I was dismayed when I thought I read it was still better to install the pacbrake on a manual...read it wrong.

thanks a bunch for the info...Im searching stuff now. Jenni

 

Well, I think I will be taking ownership of a 1996 regular cab, auto with 100k miles for $9000. The truck has no rust at all, everything works great, interior is excellent and I know the guy who owns it and hes a neat freak. The plate is slid a little, star wheel turned a touch and it has auto meter pyro and trans temp gauges on pillar. I think I'm getting a pretty good deal, but who knows.

 

100K miles

that sounds like a sweet deal to me.
Cheapest isn't always best...but getting what you wanted...
priceless....

Good luck, hope the deal goes thru...