13ALPHA

To get the background info in, the truck was sitting for 4 months, but ran fine back then. It's been outside here in AK, fuel stabilizers added.

I've done a lot of research, and basically see that it's only a handful of things that likely cause this condition. I have a road map of what to try but really I am looking for some more experience from you guys on what to try next. I don't have a ton of time and this does need to be my DD in a few days.
I firstly replaced the fuel filter, so that's brand new.

1. OFV bad-I took this off to check it out, appears to be the new kind, has no retainer, I can't take it apart, but the spring appears to be in once piece and I functions smoothly. Though I can't tell if it's just too weak. I have a feeling since it's the newer kind it's ok. I haven't actually measured FP yet though. Gauges are on the list. So for now I don't think this is the issue, but please chime in. I have't tried pinching the return fuel line, trouble finding where to pinch it, is there a easy/good spot?

2. timing slipped- When I parked it, it ran fine, has issues from the get go now, I don't think it's the timing. It does idle fine, only issues and like 1500 and up.

3. air leak somewhere- This seems like the most likely from a degraded and cracked hose from sitting so long, but I don't want to just replace them all, hoping I can pinpoint a little more.

4.lift pump? I guess measuring FP would answer this.

So really I am looking for some tips or pointers, maybe how to better pinpoint this. Are there any easier steps to do that besides replacing the hoses one by one? I will be ordering the FP gauge but want to keep trouble shooting before I get it.

Thanks a lot!

patdaly

Easiest to pinch return line near the back of the fuel filter. Suppose you could Rev it while you pinched it to see if it helped.

There were quite a few of the newer OFV's that weren't lasting, so I wouldn't rule it out until you have fuel pressure readings.

As for the lines? Just replace them from front to back with diesel rated rubber unless the steel lines by the frame are beautiful, any scaly rust and you might as well do it now.

13ALPHA

Checked the gaskets on the fuel heater, look older but no cracks, unfortunately not a store had them here though.

the strainer had a good bit of what looks like sand in it, cleaned that well.

Fired it up, engine still misses the same at higher rpm.

I bought some 3/8 and 5/16 hoses, I will run that stuff front to back, this truck is pretty rusty, I bet the hard lines are in bad shape.

On the OFV, I will pinch it tomorrow. The OFV looked identical to the photo of the non-adjustable one on LarryB's page, though it could just be how they look.

Thanks for the info, hopefully tomorrow afternoon it's running!

13ALPHA

Question:

Before I break that plastic fitting on the top of the fuel tank for the supply line, how does that thing work? I can't really see and want to know do you push then pull, or twist? And once off, is there a nipple so I can just use a hose clamp to fit the hose? I don't want to pull it off and find I am missing something. Thanks!

patdaly

If you mean the hard plastic line to the tank module, they are just squeeze fittings. The sucky thing is they usually fill with dirt and become a real pain to remove.

I cursed for the better part of an hour trying to remove them before I dropped the tank, finally had to drop the tank part way to be able to get in there and clean them out. The first time I did one, I just cut the hard plastic as close as possible and replaced the push connector with diesel rated rubber, shoved it over the remaining hard plastic up to the steel and over the module and hose clamped it.

13ALPHA

Thanks, I think mine are filled with grime also, can't seem to squeeze them. We'll see how goes!

patdaly

One other thing, if you still have steel lines out of the tank module, be sure you inspect them closely for rust and scaling. They tend to rot out and start an air leak before finally dying.

The reman units from Dodge are now plastic barbs, or Vulcan makes a replacement.

infidel

Trick I learned to removing the fuel line quick connects is push them on further while squeezing then pull back.

13ALPHA

I will check those lines out, thanks for the heads up.

I had one of those moments. I swear I followed the lines and was pinching the return line, but I followed them again and found out I was pinching the supply, doH! So I tried again, had not a perfect engine but seemed much better. The new OFV is on the way from LarryB and will still replace the entire supply line too. Good to get it done. Man my engine is dirty.

13ALPHA

Update:
OFV is still in the mail, hope that's here in a few days.

I replaced the supply line entirely from tank to the hard line right behind the FF area with good 3/8 barrier hose.

So, went to prime, before the fuel filter change when I hit the primer button i gurgled a little, and fuel and air bubbled out a tiny bit on top of the FF, was that normal? because now with the new FF it doesn't, seems completely silent when I prime it. So after that, little rough to start, doesn't want to idle on it's own for ike 15-20 seconds, if you let off the pedal it dies in that time. But after a minute for so it idles fine on it's own but I still can't get above like 1500-1800 without sputtering and stumbling. If I shut it down at this point, it starts up again just fine.

Left it off for not even 10 minutes, a little less, and it was very hard to start again.

Final questions:

So, with the supply line replaced, it still seems to be losing prime. Does my primer operation sound normal and what else can be causing it to lose prime? I think the stumbling is a separate issue, unless the lift pump is dying and can cause it to lose prime and not supply enough fuel. (OFV still in the mail)

Ideas?

patdaly

Did it lose prime in 10 minutes before? If not, I would find where you didn't get the hose clamp tight enough.

Next needs to be a pressure test, even with the old OFV your pressure will spike to 60 or so when you clamp off the return line if the LP is good.

13ALPHA

I would say it was about 10 minutes, I will check those hose clamps, I wanted to make sure I didn't break the plastic one on the tank end. It did seem to lose prime before too.

From my description of my primer before and after FF change, does it seem to be operating right?

Is there an easy way to just check FP without buying a setup? Like an adapter I could just stick on top of one of the bolts somewhere, ie FF or banjo somewhere?

This thing is a rust bucket, 240k miles, not my final project truck, really just going to get it running to sell and do that before I leave AK, buy one down south. That's why I haven't just gone for a FP gauge right away.

Thanks

patdaly

Suppose for a quick check you could get a cheap T, put 5/16 barb fittings in line, screw a cheap 60 PSI gauge into the center, and then with a short piece of hose, connect it at the return line to the tank, put the rubber return on the other barb, and then get your readings to verify lift pump only when you squeezed the return hose. It wouldn't verify OFV operation though.

I have never messed with earlier trucks ( 94-96 ) used screw on fuel filters, I suppose there is a NPT plug somewhere on the top that you could tap into.

infidel

It doesn't have to be the supply line, air will get in the system though a leaky return line when the engine is off also.

Could also be you have a have a rusted out metal line into the tank and need one of these> http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Dra...shlo-p/dsi.htm

13ALPHA

If the OFV is good though, could the return still let it hard start? Wouldn't it just leak out? I will go ahead and replace that one too.

Tank is about 3/4 full, the stock draw straw thing is on the list as a culprit too.

Just waiting for the OFV before I replace more.