hotmopr

I have developed some end play and alittle side to side play as well. Who sells bearing and seal kits for the HX 35? Thanks

infidel

A little side to side play is normal.
Complete rebuild kit for the Holset turbo is #3545652 This is a Holset # and it can be had at any Cummins dealer or any reputable turbo shop for about $50. It includes everything needed for a complete rebuild with the bearings.
Many folks suggest that the turbo be balanced after rebuilding, unless you have specialized tools you're better off letting a shop do it.

BoostdCTD

A little side to side is ok, but you can't have any in/out.

Edited. 11/28

infidel

You mean front to back, not up-down right?

BoostdCTD

Yea the clarity wasn't quite there. It can go in and out a little but not wobble side to side or up and down, otherwise the compressor wheel can touch down onto the housing and create havoc.

Forrest Nearing

actually, you've got that the other way around... it can wiggle up and down (radial play) some, but if it can go in and out (axial play), you need to rebuild it ASAP.

BoostdCTD

Will you elaborate why? To me I'm thinking if it goes in and out that it isn't to big of a deal unless it is a sign of a bearing failure?! Does oil mist soon follow? Is it possible to let oil out only on the turbine side? I know my compressor side isn't. If it goes up and down any noticeable amount it'll end up hitting the housing and chewing everything up.

After parking my talon for ~4 months last year I got it out and drove it over to a friends house. It let out this awful screeching noise so I just kept off the boost. There was no coking in the center cartridge but it refused to pass any liquids through (I presume a small amount of oil made it through under pressure). Before this the turbo with 102k miles on it was as tight as day one, now IIRC it has no up and down but it does have in and out. Guess I may end up getting a 16G conversion kit before I thought I ever would.

infidel

This is what I've always understood also. A little radial play is ok because the turbine shaft rides on a film of oil when the engine is running.
Fore to aft play is bad because of the tight clearances in the exhaust portion of the turbo. Fore to aft play is somewhat rare.

Most turbos will need the seals replaced due to leakage into the intake long before the bushings wear to the point that they need replacement.

If anyone wants complete turbo rebuild instructions, all 58 pages,
PM me your email address.

BoostdCTD

Thanks for the offer Bill but my email isn't working right now for some reason (didn't get this notification or another email I'm expecting) also there is a cool site that DSMers have built up and they have instructions on how to take my exact turbo apart. http://vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-rebuild.html

Forrest Nearing

Jeff, Axial play will cause the wheels to contact the housings more often than radial play... if you've got enough radial play that you can make the compressor wheel touch the compressor housing, then you should rebuild the turbo ASAP as well, BUT, you can also get away with running it a little longer than one that has thrusted (bad axial play)

when the wheel is spinning, it's naturally going to spin on-center, and will really only deflect badly if you let off the throttle abruptly under high boost...

but when you've got a worn thrust bearing, it wears down pretty quick... depending on the shaft speed, housing sizes, and engine CFM, either the turbine wheel or the compressor wheel will act as a propeller pulling the shaft in its direction.

and when you let off at high boost, it slams the shaft back/forward pretty hard.

now, often with a turbo that has thrusted, you'll also have a lot of radial play, and the combo of the two will ruin housings pretty quick.

but in the odd situation of having excessive end play (if you can feel it, it's probably excessive) but still very little radial play, I would advise having the turbo rebuilt ASAP and trying to figure out why it thrusted.

Forrest

BoostdCTD

I'm happy to announce that I remembered wrong. I just popped off the intake and checked it out, it has a little radial but none in and out. I hope it wasn't the Mercedes I was thinking of, I know a lot more vendors for my talon. I'll check the MB next time I have a chance. Thanks guys, I feel better now, for a little while there I was starting to worry.

infidel

Found where to download the Holset repair manual, you will need WinZip and Adobe Acrobat. You can download these there if you don't have them. Not recommended for dialup.

http://www.holset.co.uk/files/4_4_1-...%20manuals.php

Max radial runout .013-.02"
Max axial runout .001-.005

Hemi Cat

The specs Infidel has says it all. I normally find oil leakage on the seal long before the impellers touch the housing unless something comes loose and lets the hsg move off center. Normally if the thrust brng allows the imp to touch the hsg, all brngs are bad taking out the seal causing an oil leak. I'm sure there can be an exception to this, but I haven't seen one yet. Usually by the time it gets to me it's pretty well gone.

Dufrain

I know Im bringing up an old thread but I figured its better than starting a new one.I have my turbo off for the headgasket replacement.The hx35 has some side to side,I didnt think to check the in and out but I will here in a minute.
I see the specs to measure but how do i measure to see how much slop I have.I have no oil leakage.
The wheel has some bent fins,but I dont know what caused it.It was like that when I got the truck.I have a new wheel already.Since its not leaking oil are the bearings ok,I just dont want to take it back off again or destroy my motor.Thanx for any help

infidel

If I were you I'd download the manual from above and follow the instructions there. I would also consider having it balanced. At 200,000 rpm a little off balance is a lot.