12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 02:46 PM
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Run on

On my '97 2500, when I turn off the key, the motor runs on for about 30-45 seconds. Is there some way to check the fuel shutoff? Is this more of a problem than I think it is? Any help would be appreciated
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cwhetham
On my '97 2500, when I turn off the key, the motor runs on for about 30-45 seconds. Is there some way to check the fuel shutoff? Is this more of a problem than I think it is? Any help would be appreciated
Possibly the linkage is the culprit, but more likely this is your issue.

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-12-...ver-diode.html

You can check the linkage by hand to make sure it moves smoothly.....
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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That diode, I have one in mine, is to prevent burn up of the solenoid if the starter hangs up due to worn contacts. Before you replace any thing pull the solenoid and give it a good cleaning and inspection. Sounds like it is hanging up a little. The boot deteriorates also and will let small bits of boot material into the unit causing hang ups.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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Joe G's old write up has some pretty good info in it also. Save it for some reference.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...m-writeup.html
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Another good writeup on replacement of the solenoid with a cable control.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...onversion.html
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Thanks for the info. I will be working on this on the weekend. Will let you know how it works out.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:11 AM
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In reading some of the threads you guys have given me, it seems that it is either the solenoid or the relay. My question is now, is there a way to confirm which without replacing both? Would it be better to just change both? Looking at the "kit" from Larry B's has it all, and since I'm in there doing the one, why not do both.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 12:07 PM
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The solenoid rarely goes bad. Throw 12 volts on it when it's out. The relay does go bad, I have had it happen. The wire gets corroded also and you can't really see it because the rot is up the wire under the insulation. Be aware, if you pull the solenoid don't lose the shaft key for it.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Trick to removing the solenoid without losing parts is to turn the key on and lift the solenoid.
Then you can remove the solenoid and get it to an easier to handle place before unplugging the connector.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 04:15 PM
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Oh ya..forgot about that Bill..
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:06 AM
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Carl, you mentioned a "shaft key", and don't lose it. Help me here, is it like a cotter pin, or is it a "key" that fits in a groove to lock a sprocket onto a shaft, or what? When you mention don't lose it, that means real trouble if I do. What are the consequences? This is my farm truck, can't affort to lose it, or replace it.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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Woodruff key (half moon) in the shaft. It is pretty small.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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In the thread for Joe G that you gave me, it has pictures of the solenoid a little more than half way down. In the second picture, in the lower left it shows a pin in the end of the shaft that the solenoid rod is connected to. Is that the "key" you were talking about not losing?
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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The little key goes in the shaft coming out of the pump where the linkage from the solenoid attaches.
To remove just the solenoid you don't need to remove the linkage from the pump.
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