can the head bolts be reused?

what is the best gasket to go back with and where do I get it?

any tips on how to make this job a success would be very appreciated..

 

It is my understanding that a bolt stretch gauge should come with the head gasket set. If its not to spec. it has to be replaced. I also read somewhere you should place the bolt removed back into the same hole it came from.
I haven't done a head gasket on my diesel but have on a regular V8s and gas inline six gassers. I got away with just using the same head bolts in no said order as long as they fit.
I would inspect ,replace as needed and torque to specs. Good luck..

 

Cummins sells a gasket set that includes the gauge. Before you buy one have your head checked for straightness. If you have to mill the head there are thicker gaskets available. Also, if your future plans call for a GSK, now is the time to install 60# springs. The valve seals come with the kit.

 

I am trying fix a 3k screwup by a dodge dealer, I won't get into the whole story but looking at the work they performed I def got owned

they did not clean the block surface very well, I paid for all new head bolts but looking at the ones taken out only half were new.

that is a brand new head supposedly direct from cummins but it says Brasil on the bottom

I heard its best to go with a marine gasket and studs...

what is the best way to get the head back on without screwing up the gasket? looks like that will be the hardest part

 

For one thing, I would remove the injectors. I used an engine hoist, that thing is heavy and awkward. All Cummins gaskets are now marine grade. I wouldn't mess with studs unless you are planning some serious engine enhancements. You know the torque specs by the book call for XX lbs of torque, then an extra 90 degrees. I can give you the exact numbers if you need them. For all I know the heads are made in Brazil, you could call Cummins and ask. To make life easier you might put #1 at TDC before you install the head for the valve adjustments.

 

Do it right the first time.
Dump the bolts and go with studs.

Cummins is a world wide company. Brazil is not a bad place for casted products. I know the B, C & L heads are Brasilian.
I believe the infamous 53 block was a Mexican product. The fault wasn't Mexican, but the mold design

All Cummins gasket sets are the "marine" head gasket.

 

this may be the dumbest question yet but shouldn't there be more than one dowel pin on the block? there is one on the front of the block but none on the rear... Doesn't seem like the back of the head would have good alignment without it..

 

There should be a dowel in the front and the back. You do not have to remove ther injectors, or the exhaust manifold for that matter, especially if you are using an engine hoist. Just unbolt the turbo from the manifold and let it swing out of the way.

I did the headgasket on mine twice in two weeks and ended up using a marine with studs to get it to hold. As soon as you clamp a gasket to the block and get it warm, it is going to make the block appear as though it was not prepped.

 

you might want to do a good coolant flush when you get it done. I see a lot of rust inside your coolant passages.

is that head already O-ringed? or are those ring grooves in all of them?

 

no its not ringed.. the pics make the passages look worse than they are..

anyone have a extra head pin? is there a technical name for it I can use when I try to explain too the parts dept what I need..

 

The pin is called a Dowel Ring. Cummins Part # 3902343.

Kurt

 

You could pull the radiator and intercooler out. I found that it will make getting the head back on a lot easier cause you have a straight shot to the block. Its a little extra work but I think its worth it.

 

the best thing i used when doing my HG was a 2x4 cut to length to sit on top of the batteries. i sat the head on the radiator support (with cushion, of course) and on the 2x4 as far back as i could, and lined it up somewhat centered.

i used a I beam that was chained to two ceiling joists in my garage and used a series of ratchet straps and a come-a-long to carefully place the head back on the block, with the gasket sitting on the block surface.

once i lifted the head, i removed the 2x4. it made it much easier than trying to keep the head from falling while you prepare your straps. if you have one in a bad spot, just lower the head back down to the 2.4 and re-strap it. it makes it easier, especially when you're doing it by yourself.

 

thanks for all the tips guys, I forgot about my friend who owns a machine/diesel parts shop, He got me a 10,000's thicker gasket, bolts and dowel for $180... Hope I can have it back on the road this weekend..

 

I feel for 'ya. Thought I had a bad HG...turned out to be a bad head. I bought one aftermarket. Removed old alone...installed new last night alone...man it that thing heavy I pulled the front clip this second time around---tried to re-install the old head w/ new gasket last month...ugh.
FWIW, Cummins did not cheap out on fastening hardware. Get a head bolt stretch gauge for b-series and see where you're at. Mine were all well within spec, the longest of which being the furthest within spec, ironically enough. Sub 450 RWHP and the bolts will be fine. I got the +.020 gasket as I plan to run 45psi daily and would like to bring cylinder pressure down.