Hey All,
I have a 95 Ram Cummins 2500. My son one day months back shut it off in drive, and tried to restart it (he's 14). It is an automatic. He put it up in park, still doesn't start. The puzzling part is, along with not starting, the power windows do not work, nor does the blower for heat/air. The headlights don't come on, but the parking lights do. The fuel shut off solenoid doesn't lift, but will stay open if lifted. The door locks operate, dash lights, the key chime, can't say for radio, it has been out awhile. Interior lights work. On advice from my guy who works on it for all maor stuff, I replaced the ignition switch. I've also swapped and replaced relays, and checked and replaced fuses. I"m not a newbie at wrenching, but I'm not a pro either.
Any help any of you can offer would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.

 

It doesn't start - does it at least crank? If it doesn't crank, your troubleshooting path will be different than a crank-but-no-start path. If no-crank, you normally want to look at what's in the electrical path to the starter - starting relay, neutral safety switch, etc.

Do you have voltage to the "pull" side of the FSS when the key is in the crank/start position? If it stays up when lifted and with key-on, then you are getting at least some current through the ignition switch in key-on mode (ditto if it cranks but doesn't start).

Did the headlights work trouble-free before the in-gear shutoff? These trucks are notorious for headlight-switch issues. I suggest pulling the headlight switch and examining the switch and connector for issues to see if this may be a side issue. On the surface, there doesn't seem to be a lot of commonality between the various symptoms, but they may be electrically connected way down deep. Do you have access to a factory service manual (including wiring diagrams)?

 

Texasprd, thank you for your reply. I forgot to mention that it does not offer to crank at all, thank you for pointing this out.
The headlights have always worked fine. I have to get my multi meter out when my oldest son brings my vehicle back today from work.

 

The key word before you go replacing things is TROUBLESHOOT. Find the problem then replace if needed. Obviously you have an electrical malfunction. Think systems or circuits: starting, headlight, accessories,etc. I would start with the starting system or circuit. The starter relay, 4 contacts, will tell you a lot. See attached picture. Disregard pin 87A. Test your battery for voltage. That will be you reference battery voltage. Pin 86 is powered by the ignition switch. Turn key to start and test for battery voltage on that pin. No voltage then you look at battery to ignition switch problem. Pin 85 is ground and it goes thru your Neutral Start Switch. Test for continuity with transmission in park or neutral. You should have continuity. Pin 30 is battery feed. You will always have battery voltage on this pin. Pin 87 is the starter solenoid feed. You can do a continuity test from this pin to connection on the starter solenoid. You should have continuity. BTW, pin 87 also feeds your FSS which turns on fuel for engine start.

How it works: when you turn your key to start pin 86 sends power to ground via pin 85. This activates the relay. With relay activated pin 30 is connected to pin 87. Power is now sent to starter solenoid and FSS. Fuel turns on , starter engages and engine starts. Check other problems by checking the appropriate circuits.