Poor cold weather starting
Poor cold weather starting
My '96 CTD is not housed in a garage. I need to plug in when temps drop below 20 to 25*F. That is not a problem. I expect that. The batteries are in good condition and check out to be so.
When temps drop to near 0*F or lower and the truck has not been started for several days, it seems that I must plug it in for at least 2 hours. If I also plug a battery charger in when the block heater is, it spins faster and I can get it to start after as little as an hour when above 0*F.
It appears that the batteries are losing their "edge" when the truck sits for several days to a week. It seems that there may be a slow low energy draining of the batteries happening. I find it hard to believe that the clock, stereo, etc are creating this much of a drain.
Anyone with thought on the subject?
Thx
When temps drop to near 0*F or lower and the truck has not been started for several days, it seems that I must plug it in for at least 2 hours. If I also plug a battery charger in when the block heater is, it spins faster and I can get it to start after as little as an hour when above 0*F.
It appears that the batteries are losing their "edge" when the truck sits for several days to a week. It seems that there may be a slow low energy draining of the batteries happening. I find it hard to believe that the clock, stereo, etc are creating this much of a drain.
Anyone with thought on the subject?
Thx
if your using 15-40 keep in mind the oil is only good to 10degres F and with the block heater pluged in and using a thermacouple I've discoverd you can let it go as low as 0. I had a problem where my bonnville wouldnt start if I let it sit for 2 days the battery was dead. it turned out to be something in the door went bad and was slowly draining the battery. I forget what it was but it was related to power windows/locks or something.
Have you checked the electrolyte/water in your battery or is it maintenance free?
Mine was doing the same thing this winter and I checked the water levels in my batteries and they were extremely low. Filled them back up and everything is good now.
Mine was doing the same thing this winter and I checked the water levels in my batteries and they were extremely low. Filled them back up and everything is good now.
Do you mean it won't start at all, or is just hard to start? I've had the misfortune of having to start my '97 CTD at -35C (about -30F) without it being plugged in. It sucked, but it started. I like to plug it in any time it will be below about 0C (32F), because the engine is so heavy (~1000 lbs), and block heaters only put out about 300W (I believe), you should let the heater run for a few hours (the cost of electricity is worth it).
You should definitely be able to start it at 0F. It sounds like your batteries are dead/dieing, or your alternator is weak. Other things to check include that the grid heater is getting triggered (voltage should drop when you turn key to "run" but before starting).
A weak battery will:
a) not give enough power to the grid heater (less heat will come out of it)
b) crank the engine over more slowly (combined with less heat in the intake)
Also, if your starter has been on there for a while, you should pull it and replace the solenoid and contacts - they get pitted and develop resistance, making the engine crank more slowly.
Surprisingly, the fuel shut off solenoid relay gave me symptoms sort of like this when it was failing.
The colder it is, the more everything else also has to be bang on (timing, injectors in good shape, valves in good shape, etc, etc). I would assume a bad fuel heater/dirty filter would also not help... although at only 0F and in Alaska, you should be getting winter diesel and not have much of a problem with that. But it might be work checking the heater and changing the filter. Check the other stuff first.
You should definitely be able to start it at 0F. It sounds like your batteries are dead/dieing, or your alternator is weak. Other things to check include that the grid heater is getting triggered (voltage should drop when you turn key to "run" but before starting).
A weak battery will:
a) not give enough power to the grid heater (less heat will come out of it)
b) crank the engine over more slowly (combined with less heat in the intake)
Also, if your starter has been on there for a while, you should pull it and replace the solenoid and contacts - they get pitted and develop resistance, making the engine crank more slowly.
Surprisingly, the fuel shut off solenoid relay gave me symptoms sort of like this when it was failing.
The colder it is, the more everything else also has to be bang on (timing, injectors in good shape, valves in good shape, etc, etc). I would assume a bad fuel heater/dirty filter would also not help... although at only 0F and in Alaska, you should be getting winter diesel and not have much of a problem with that. But it might be work checking the heater and changing the filter. Check the other stuff first.
@tony597fitter:
That return line was bad when I purchased the truck. It was one of the first things I fixed after I bought it (used). @temps above freezing there are no starting problems what so ever. The problem seems to be related to COLD temps and slow spinning of the engine.
@infidel:
That sounds familiar and is probably the reason I'm thinking it's a slow draining of the batteries.
@Captain:
The batteries aren't dying. They only take about a 1/2 hour on a 10 amp charge to get back to a full charge. That's 2 local made (Alaska Gold) very high amper/hour batteries. They just seem to lose their "edge" over time. The engine doesn't seem to spin as fast as it should (could?).
@Weg:
I can check the electrolyte levels. I'll do that tomorrow.
@ScottN:
I'd say just hard to start. If I leave it plugged in for at least 2 hours, it will start down to -20*F. If I plug it in for about an hour and have a 10amp battery charger attached, it only takes about an hour to get it to start. The alternator cranks out a steady 24 to 25 volts except when the grid heaters cycle. When it's that cold I always cycle the grid heaters 2X before attempting the first starting. Above I told tony597fitter that the first thing I fixed on the truck was the fuel return lines. The second thing I fixed was to install a new starter. The third was a new alternator. Yep, they're pumping #1 diesel this time of year. It's possible filters could be part of the problem. Although, They're not all that far over due.
I have to admit, I'm a shade-tree mechanic. I'd rather wait for temps to moderate before crawling under it for seriously attacking the problem. it has been an unusually cold winter here. It's March. Temps are still going sub zero. Break-up should be starting soon. The temps should begin warming soon. Actually, they should already have begun to. Winter's just beginning to wear on me. I'm getting tired of fighting my favorite vehicle to operate it through the winter. B****, b****, b****...
That return line was bad when I purchased the truck. It was one of the first things I fixed after I bought it (used). @temps above freezing there are no starting problems what so ever. The problem seems to be related to COLD temps and slow spinning of the engine.
@infidel:
That sounds familiar and is probably the reason I'm thinking it's a slow draining of the batteries.
@Captain:
The batteries aren't dying. They only take about a 1/2 hour on a 10 amp charge to get back to a full charge. That's 2 local made (Alaska Gold) very high amper/hour batteries. They just seem to lose their "edge" over time. The engine doesn't seem to spin as fast as it should (could?).
@Weg:
I can check the electrolyte levels. I'll do that tomorrow.
@ScottN:
I'd say just hard to start. If I leave it plugged in for at least 2 hours, it will start down to -20*F. If I plug it in for about an hour and have a 10amp battery charger attached, it only takes about an hour to get it to start. The alternator cranks out a steady 24 to 25 volts except when the grid heaters cycle. When it's that cold I always cycle the grid heaters 2X before attempting the first starting. Above I told tony597fitter that the first thing I fixed on the truck was the fuel return lines. The second thing I fixed was to install a new starter. The third was a new alternator. Yep, they're pumping #1 diesel this time of year. It's possible filters could be part of the problem. Although, They're not all that far over due.
I have to admit, I'm a shade-tree mechanic. I'd rather wait for temps to moderate before crawling under it for seriously attacking the problem. it has been an unusually cold winter here. It's March. Temps are still going sub zero. Break-up should be starting soon. The temps should begin warming soon. Actually, they should already have begun to. Winter's just beginning to wear on me. I'm getting tired of fighting my favorite vehicle to operate it through the winter. B****, b****, b****...
Trending Topics
Your owners manual states that 2-hours plugged-in is the minimum time for the electric-block heated to be effective. 3+ hours is ideal. My suggestion, buy a $20 timer for the circuit, plug it in when you get home (with the correct timer setting), let it run 3-4 hours, and you should have no problem.
Also consider switching to Rotella synthetic 5W-40 oil, as you're in the cold a lot.
Also consider switching to Rotella synthetic 5W-40 oil, as you're in the cold a lot.
I think you might be asking your block heater to do the impossible. 2 hours is not enough, and not even 3.
All it is is a small element that has to warm up the block water which consequently warms up the block, which warms op the oil (at the bottom of motor, heat goes up not down). If you are at -30F I can guarantee it will take a long time to warm it up to a temperature high enough to heat the whole motor to a point it would be ideal to start.
What do I do ? I plug it in all night. Never had a problem starting it in the morning, it's pennies well spent in electricity for me.
I had to help some truckers starting their trucks at -40F this winter, one was a 2006 Freightliner with the new Mercedes, I can guarantee if you hear the sound of these motors when they try to start with no heat, you will get scared too. Just take a sledgehammer and hit an anvil as hard as you can, that's what sounded like....
Also you have a good point regarding your batteries, a diesel if it doesn't spin at least at a certain speed it won't start, regardless of temperature outside.
Get them checked or replace them, it will help immensely.
All it is is a small element that has to warm up the block water which consequently warms up the block, which warms op the oil (at the bottom of motor, heat goes up not down). If you are at -30F I can guarantee it will take a long time to warm it up to a temperature high enough to heat the whole motor to a point it would be ideal to start.
What do I do ? I plug it in all night. Never had a problem starting it in the morning, it's pennies well spent in electricity for me.
I had to help some truckers starting their trucks at -40F this winter, one was a 2006 Freightliner with the new Mercedes, I can guarantee if you hear the sound of these motors when they try to start with no heat, you will get scared too. Just take a sledgehammer and hit an anvil as hard as you can, that's what sounded like....

Also you have a good point regarding your batteries, a diesel if it doesn't spin at least at a certain speed it won't start, regardless of temperature outside.
Get them checked or replace them, it will help immensely.
As in another thread, my son plugged my truck in for me
one nite and at 4 degrees F. When I went to start it early the next morning my engine temp guage said 180. Turns out he plugged it into a 30 amp 220 outlet. No problems, and the windshield had no frost or snow on it and the heater threw heat immediately. Somethng to consider
one nite and at 4 degrees F. When I went to start it early the next morning my engine temp guage said 180. Turns out he plugged it into a 30 amp 220 outlet. No problems, and the windshield had no frost or snow on it and the heater threw heat immediately. Somethng to consider
freeloader,
You might want to get yourself one of those magnetic oil pan heaters. My truck sits outside all winter and before I got one it would let me know it was cold out. Have yet to fail to start even when I forgot to plug it in when we had the -20* this winter.
Moparmax
You might want to get yourself one of those magnetic oil pan heaters. My truck sits outside all winter and before I got one it would let me know it was cold out. Have yet to fail to start even when I forgot to plug it in when we had the -20* this winter.
Moparmax
@96_12V
D***, another answer found in the Owner's Manual. Maybe I should read it again. I am getting due for an oil change soon. I'll give the idea of changing to a synthetic thought.
@Valv
That thought is beginning to occure to me. The batteries check out OK. Yeah, after starting mine I let it run for at least 15 to 30 minutes and then drive it slow and easy 'til the temp guage begins coming up. Otherwise, it does sound like someone is beating on it with a hammer.
@Hayseed
WOW!!! Now that's a good idea!!! But, I'm a bit fearful you may not have recieved the same consequences I might if I tried it.
@Moparmax
That's not a bad idea. It's reminded me that 20 years ago when I spent a winter in Fairbanks (temps to -45*F) I also used a battery blanket heater. I never had a starting problem with my diesel vehicle. I'm not doing it now. It would probably make all the difference in the world to the batteries.
Thx guys. All of you have given good advice for my percieved problem. Some of it will get implemented. I'm beginning to think "percieved" is the keyword here. From the references given to what the Owner's Manual says, I may be "asking too much" brought on by the noted difference in performance due to adding a battery charger to the heater. Maybe I should pull the manual out of the glove-box and read it again, slowly and methodically. From the references to what the manual says I may actually have a very good running truck if I can get it to start after only plugging it in for an hour at those kind of temps. Maybe I should pat it every morning and compliment it instead of cussing it out.
I usually keep 2 vehicles, using a small gas powered SUV for winter driving while reserving my CTD for summer operation. I sold the SUV last fall, have not replaced it and have been using the CTD for the first time in the 5 years I've had it for winter driving. I'm also thinking that a large part of the problem is winter beginning to wear on me.
Thx again guys.
D***, another answer found in the Owner's Manual. Maybe I should read it again. I am getting due for an oil change soon. I'll give the idea of changing to a synthetic thought.
@Valv
That thought is beginning to occure to me. The batteries check out OK. Yeah, after starting mine I let it run for at least 15 to 30 minutes and then drive it slow and easy 'til the temp guage begins coming up. Otherwise, it does sound like someone is beating on it with a hammer.
@Hayseed
WOW!!! Now that's a good idea!!! But, I'm a bit fearful you may not have recieved the same consequences I might if I tried it.
@Moparmax
That's not a bad idea. It's reminded me that 20 years ago when I spent a winter in Fairbanks (temps to -45*F) I also used a battery blanket heater. I never had a starting problem with my diesel vehicle. I'm not doing it now. It would probably make all the difference in the world to the batteries.
Thx guys. All of you have given good advice for my percieved problem. Some of it will get implemented. I'm beginning to think "percieved" is the keyword here. From the references given to what the Owner's Manual says, I may be "asking too much" brought on by the noted difference in performance due to adding a battery charger to the heater. Maybe I should pull the manual out of the glove-box and read it again, slowly and methodically. From the references to what the manual says I may actually have a very good running truck if I can get it to start after only plugging it in for an hour at those kind of temps. Maybe I should pat it every morning and compliment it instead of cussing it out.
I usually keep 2 vehicles, using a small gas powered SUV for winter driving while reserving my CTD for summer operation. I sold the SUV last fall, have not replaced it and have been using the CTD for the first time in the 5 years I've had it for winter driving. I'm also thinking that a large part of the problem is winter beginning to wear on me.
Thx again guys.
I'll do you a favor, few hundreds and I'll come and "drag" it out of your yard....
Just kidding, I think you have a good truck, just plug it in longer. Heck I remember when I used to ranch in Wyoming we had some days where was -55f with 40mph wind, we never shut the trucks off, let them run all night, and they were gassers.
Synthetic is a good idea... I did one change with dinosaur oil back when I got my truck, and have put in Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme full synthetic 5w40 with a Cummins Stratopore oil filter every change since. It ends up being just under $100 CAD per change, but hey... Edmonton is retarded cold and I love my truck. I have never run non-synthetic during the winter.
I have a glued on oil pan heater. Battery heaters would definitely help. You can get heaters for everything.
How old are your batteries? If they are a bit older, it is possible that they can hold just as many amp-hrs, but can't provide nearly the cold starting current you need to crank those bad boys over in the cold. You could also check for corrosion and/or loose connections at/along any cables at the batteries to the starter, as well as the ground path. Even a very small amonut of resistance makes a big difference when you're pushing a couple hundred+ amps. You can use some emery cloth, wire brush, sand paper on each connector just to be sure (that's one thing I do whenever I pull a starter).
Also, you don't want to idle the truck for long periods of time - even if it is cold. As soon as it is willing, bump that idle to about 1200 rpm. Even if I've started at rather cold temps, I will give it enough time to be drivable, and then take it *really* easy (like driving an 80,000 lb semi with a 150 hp engine easy). Idling at low speeds will build up carbon in your cylinders and on your valves.
No engine likes the winter, but I've been impressed with my cummins thus far.
I have a glued on oil pan heater. Battery heaters would definitely help. You can get heaters for everything.
How old are your batteries? If they are a bit older, it is possible that they can hold just as many amp-hrs, but can't provide nearly the cold starting current you need to crank those bad boys over in the cold. You could also check for corrosion and/or loose connections at/along any cables at the batteries to the starter, as well as the ground path. Even a very small amonut of resistance makes a big difference when you're pushing a couple hundred+ amps. You can use some emery cloth, wire brush, sand paper on each connector just to be sure (that's one thing I do whenever I pull a starter).
Also, you don't want to idle the truck for long periods of time - even if it is cold. As soon as it is willing, bump that idle to about 1200 rpm. Even if I've started at rather cold temps, I will give it enough time to be drivable, and then take it *really* easy (like driving an 80,000 lb semi with a 150 hp engine easy). Idling at low speeds will build up carbon in your cylinders and on your valves.
No engine likes the winter, but I've been impressed with my cummins thus far.


