Howdy Gents,

After doing my 47rh trans service with a new filter and total fluid replacement, I noticed a small leak under the forward mounting support which is secured to the oil pan.

I have not removed the bracket to tell which line it is coming from. Just wondering what is the best way to repair this?

The leak is pretty minor, not a stream, just a bubbling amount that soon forms a droplet. Looks like the support bracket has no rubber between the the lines and the bracket, and due to motor vibration it may have rubbed a hole.

I saw a thread where a guy had a pinhole in his intercooler and fixed it with JB Weld, which I have. A guy recommended TIG welding the intercooler hole. Others have recommended replacing the plastic clip connectors with Hydraulic hoses, which also seems reasonable. What does not seem reasonable is $130 for what is basically a couple feet of fuel line.

What I would like to do, since I live in Alaska where we get pretty cool temps, is have some way to disconnect the cooler function altogether, but leave it in place for Summer use.

I guess I could flare these lines and install some threaded fittings so I could just put a U-bridge on in Winter and hook up the cooler in Summer. My trans temp sensor is wrapped around my dipstick and hardly ever shows a hot reading.


Ideas and comments Please!!!

thanks

lester
`95 2500 SLT 4x4 w/Banks turbo & full exhaust; exhaust brake, pyro, boost & trans temp guages.

 

Sorry to say but unless you want the same trouble I had put a new line in. I did the old JB Weld fixit and it cracked at the worst time. Best to fix it right the first time. My plastic spacer came off and caused the two lines to rub. JB weld will hold but my advice is stay close to main highways no hunting back in the bush.

 

That is experience talking. His and mine! Fix it right the first time. Count yourself lucky you found it before it costs you a $200 tow or a $2K tranny!

 

Just a thought, you could install a valve where the hole is if there's room and kill 2 birds with one stone

 

You might be worse off bypassing the cooler if you bypass the engine coolant to trans fluid cooler also. The coolant cooler will warm the trans fluid, otherwise when locked up the fluid will get very cold.

 

It's much cheaper to fix it right the first time. If not I'll bet you fix it right the second time.

 

Replace the line NOW! I had the same deal, I just noticed a small leak, then 50 miles later I was spuing ATF all over. I just bent up some new lines myself. Braided Stainless steel is an option, too. The dealer wants a decent chunk of money for the line.

EVERYBODY!!! look under the truck at where the two lines pass underneath the pan, they vibrate together and eventually wear a hole in the line. Take some foam and zip tie in between the lines so they don't rub!!!

 

The lines, both of them, had a rubbed creases that cracked. Each line had 2 cracks where the edges of the hanger support that is tied to the stud on the oilpan.

Sure pisses me off to see that Dodge would not spend 5cents to put a liner between the support and the lines. I am looking at one of the 2" sections I cut out with a tubing cutter. It has 2 flats worn on each side, and the top is worn flat about .01 deep and has a crack about 1/3" long in the center of the wear spot.\

My truck was built in Oct 94, a `95 model. I would advise anyone whose lines have yet to be replaced to look at their line support mounts and cut up a bike tube or coat the bracket to prevent this rub through.

I have never had a diesel that did not make significant vibration. Any engineer could have foretold that this would eventually happen. You just expect the details to be attended to. Well I am here to warn you, INSPECT YOUR LINES BEFORE THEY BREAK!


The fix was to use 6" of 1/2" rubber hose and 2 clamps. Not high tech, but functional and effective for now.

 

i have had good luck with compression unions. they are used on air lines on big rigs and seem to handle vibration well. have 2 on one of my trucks. 2 years no problems

 

The P/O of my truck sliced some heater hoses and slipped them over my tranny cooler lines... a few bucks, max.

 

I replaced mine at 110K, no compliants from me. But all three lines for 170 bucks sucks. Look at it this way, now you can get the line with the factory port for a sensor if you don't have one.

 

i had the same problem . the day before ,the wire holding the quick connect broke. the next day the tranny line leak. Excactly the same way. dodge wanted to much for there parts so i took the line and had it wire wheeled and braised. Cost $40 plus some high temp hose and black tape to keep the lines apart . Has been 2 months seems fine no leak, not the best fix but in the rain and dodging the high priced Dodge lines works for me.

 

i braized my buddie's lines up wherever they looked to be rubbing on the frame. and then cut some rubber hose longways and placed over the lines then bent them a little so they don't rub anything anymore. been working great for 2 years now. i'm not sure what would happen to an auto if you just put a valve inline to the cooler... it may build up lots of pressure and blow something or make it stay locked in high gear or something.... dunno for sure, but if i was to bypass it, i would run it back to the tranny instead of dead ending it.