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Okay cummins professionals, overheating engine with low EGT's...

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Old 08-06-2009, 12:38 PM
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Exclamation Okay cummins professionals, overheating engine with low EGT's...

It has me stumped, again...

What in the is going on with this thing? I thought I fixed it a while back, I had another thread going a few months back that sure helped with getting me straightened out. It seems like my truck is just not flowing water correctly. I was pulling up a pretty steep grade hauling about 12k on a gooseneck. Egt's sat around 1200-1300 as I backed out of it to keep them from getting out of control. Meanwhile while monitoring EGT's, the engine temp peaked out into the red light turned on. Ambient temp was around 95 degrees, but gimme a break, a big block chevy can outdo this thing the way it is acting.
-I run it on climbs w/ overdrive off.
-Checked water level of course. Head gasket is okay.
-New radiator, 180* thermostat from cummins, new water pump.
-No boost leaks( I don't think I checked this a while back, runs 30 psi WG capped).
-Installed royal purple coolant additive w/ fresh anti-freeze
-Defueled pump by sliding the plate some about 3/16'' (I think, been a while).
__________________________________________________
Do I need to mess with the starwheel?
Slide the plate some more?(It bellows some smoke pretty good still at WOT)
Get another turbo? ( I know this will help, any suggestions?)
Old 08-06-2009, 01:18 PM
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with your plate and injectors, that HX is probably way to small, and with the wastegate capped, you are really choking that thing out, especially at higher rpm's, and a steady 1300 on the egt's will heat the coolant up rather fast, i would start with a better turbo, or maby hook your wastgate back up and get a boost elbow...
Old 08-06-2009, 01:19 PM
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The temp guage is accurate too. Any suggestions?
Old 08-06-2009, 01:26 PM
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Okay, I was looking into maybe an s300. Is this a good upgrade for my mods? Eventually I would like to get more out of it like any other breathing person on this site, but first I want to fix the problem at hand. If its my turbo thats "choking" it out, I will yank it off and take the next step up.
Old 08-06-2009, 01:32 PM
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s300's are great but there are A LOT of different options for them, i would go with a 62mm compressor, and a 13 or 14 cm exhaust housing, and there are a lot of options for exhaust wheels, my favorite exh, is 68mm wheel and 13cm housing.
Old 08-06-2009, 01:39 PM
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Okay, cool. I have been researching on and off at these and agree with the 62mm compressor for what I use it for. Whats your reason for the 68/13? What about wastegate? and how much boost does it pull?
Old 08-06-2009, 01:54 PM
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Whats your reason for the 68/13? What about wastegate? and how much boost does it pull?
the spool up, i have tried a lot of different turbos, basicly the bigger the wheel and/or housing = slower spool, but more flow up top. i just saw your running an auto, so a 14cm would probably well for you also, just the initial spool may suffer a little, over all pressure will depend of fuel setup, but for a stock head, it should be set up for 40-45psi, if you have enough fuel to get it there.
Old 08-06-2009, 02:06 PM
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Alright, so whats a decent price to look for on one of these? I have seen some for like $950 new but with smaller wheels. I will need a different down pipe too. Whats a decent price for that? I am just asking if you know off hand.
Old 08-06-2009, 02:28 PM
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i wouldn't pay anything over $1200 w/downpipe, but you should be able to find them cheaper than that
Old 08-06-2009, 03:21 PM
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First thing, I was having that overheating problem and I was leaking coolant from the head gasket between #5 and 6 cylinder on the driver side, installed water pump and no help, then I found the leak. ( dont think thats ur problem, but it happend to me ). I had my 215 pump with 215 sticks, a K&N element ( air filter ) stock gov springs and a # 10 plate when I swapped from my hx35 to a 64/71/14 and I was very happy I skipped the s300 and that I didnt go with the 12cm housing. It was never to big, and since I have added the 90 horse injectors ( 370's made for our truck pretty much ) a 4k and no plate at all it is pretty much tapped out already. gated at 50 lbs and will hit it at 85mph if I mash the pedal. runs 45lbs before torque conv. lock up. Scheid diesel performance can give you alot of info and they are usually willing to talk for a bit. I had been driving with 45 lbs on my hx-35 for 3,000 miles. truck had 165,000, they say that is a typical spot for the gasket to pretty much rot out( not sure how true that is ). I would go straight to a 66/14 if I could do it again. good luck
Old 08-06-2009, 03:31 PM
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Thanks guys, it seems like there is a lot of variations with wheels and prices.
Between the 12 13 &14 I am probably gonna do the 14 w/ the auto.
But would a 64 be too big/laggy? The 64/71/14 is what model?(Stupid Question I am sure but I am pretty new to the turbo ball game)
Old 08-06-2009, 05:21 PM
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Mine is a Super B special ( special is the important part cuz there is a normal super B ) its made by BD and I chose it because it had a 1 year warranty. Scheid diesel makes a lightning that is that same size supposed to be a really good charger. im sure there are other choices also. I was happy when I went to the 64 I debated a 62 also. And when I changed I pushin bout the same fuel as you.
Old 08-06-2009, 11:10 PM
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I think you have two issues. One is coolant overheating and the other is high EGTs. Before I cleaned my radiator fins (removed it completely from the truck) I could easily overheat the engine climbing the grapevine with a heavy trailer in tow and my egts would never exceed 900. 3rd gear, 2200 rpm, 35 mph. After a good cleaning I run the same rpms, gear, etc and get the same egts, but rarely exceed 200 degrees water temp. I'm in Canada right now and a few days ago I pulled my 21,000 lb gross truck and RV up a 10% grade with no problem. Ambiant temp was 82. When you replaced the radiator did you clean the A/C and intercooler completely to get good air flow? Are you positive the tq converter is staying locked?

Disregard all if you are trying to set some sort of land speed record while climbing hills.
Old 08-07-2009, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by GAmes
I think you have two issues. One is coolant overheating and the other is high EGTs. Before I cleaned my radiator fins (removed it completely from the truck) I could easily overheat the engine climbing the grapevine with a heavy trailer in tow and my egts would never exceed 900. 3rd gear, 2200 rpm, 35 mph. After a good cleaning I run the same rpms, gear, etc and get the same egts, but rarely exceed 200 degrees water temp. I'm in Canada right now and a few days ago I pulled my 21,000 lb gross truck and RV up a 10% grade with no problem. Ambiant temp was 82. When you replaced the radiator did you clean the A/C and intercooler completely to get good air flow? Are you positive the tq converter is staying locked?

Disregard all if you are trying to set some sort of land speed record while climbing hills.

Where in Canada are you right now?

Clean the rad, and flush the system. You might not be leaking, but plugged off flow won't do you any good.

As for turbo's, if you are towing, I'd stay away from the 66. I have it on my 24v, it doesn't start to get moving until about 2k rpm. My 62 on the 12v is more around 1700 rpm. The bigger turbo will run hotter in cruising and mid throttle application, but stay cooler on WOT blasts. Unless you are towing at WOT, the 66 won't be your friend.
Old 08-07-2009, 08:57 AM
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I don' want a 66, I am looking into a 64/??/14

As stated above, I have a new radiator, with cummins 180* Thermostat, flushed system, new water pump, not trying to set any land speed record, just want to pull a good load at a normal pace. Also cleaned the intercooler a/c condensor, etc, on front end to assist cooling. Did this with water and air without bending fins from inside the engine bay outwards. Water system should not be my problem...


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