Hi Guys, I've been reading trying to research and compare differences between the Bosch and Tork Tek overflow valves to put on my truck, a 98 12v. It's not a hot rod, just a hauler. Would there be any advantage to having the adjustability for my application? I've replaced the pump. And am working on eliminating leaks, so far I've replaced the pre-heater. The rubber lines appear good, but I'n gonna get new ones, too. I suspect the valve isn't working properly and wanted to get the best one.

 

Suspect vs know is fairly easy on the OFV. Pinch off the return line and see if the pressure spikes to 60 or so. If it does spike, then it is the OFV.
I ordered the TorkTek adjustable part for my own truck, and the customer service is very good. After reading through the tech articles they have written to explain what they changed over the original design and why, I believe in what they are doing and the product they are putting out. So far I am happy with mine. Your advantage is in reliability over the Bosch component, and also the ability to adapt/cover any minor fuel system issues that would otherwise result in low pressure.

 

Thanks for the help. I"ve decided to get the part from Tork Tek. Am also ordering their snubber so I can install a gauge, then I will know what is going on instead of guessing. What I have to figure out now is the gauge. Any thoughts on that? I would prefer a mechanical. Read Infidels install info and am going to do things that way. All I should have to do is make sure of the compatibility of all the components I assemble. Thanks again for your help.

 

Mechanical is the way to go. I have been fighting my electric since it was installed. If you use Infidel's method of gauge installation, you will not need the tork tek snubber. The needle valve does that job.

 

If you like doing business with an excellent guy Larry B sells the same adjustable OFV made for Tork.
http://www.fostertruck.com/Overflow_valve.htm

 

Thanks again, guys, for all your prompt help!!! Called Larry's and the parts are on the way. They have a kit that includes the adjustable ofv & the gauge w/hookup stuff. Everything I need right there! All I' have left is the fuel lines to/from the tank. Assuming I'll have to drop the tank for that. Oh, any thoughts/ideas on how to get rid of that darn black contamination in my fuel tank? I've bee trying to combat it with bio-con but it seems like the go is too strong for the bio-con to eradicate it. I've currently gone up to 2 bottles every 18-20 gallons of fuel, approximately 1/2 tank.

 

You're going to have to drop your tank and flush it out.
Even if you kill diesel algae you still have to deal with their dead bodies.

I complained to Larry a long time ago about the 30 psi gauge he includes with his kits, hope he changed to a bigger one.
30 psi would be pegged most of the time.

 

Well Infidel, Larry must have took your complaint to heart. The gauge he sent is 0-60 psi. Looks like a good unit, solid. Marshall is brand name. Put it in and now I can monitor pressure. Have 22 at idle and 32 at WOT. Currently it's mounted on the filter end of the fuel line, will be moving it to in-cab permanently when I have more time. Also, the truck still seems to have a slight smoke issue, blue/white. I realize now air in the lines can contribute to that, but I'm also wondering if algae can cause inefficient combustion, it got really thick before I realized it was a problem. I won't have time to drop the tank until fall and am wondering about that.

 

Have you checked the timing?

 

I had some pump work done, approximately 25k miles ago, including timing at 16 degrees. I don't know how to verify that, and am just a bit intimidated about tearing into the inj. pump. If there is an easy way to do what your asking, just let me know how. All I have is the dodge manual.

 

For just checking the timing the best course is to find someone with a diesel timing light.
Only takes a few minutes to check the timing with one but isn't very good for changing the timing.

 

Interesting. Never seen one. I would like to see how they work. Too bad I can't use the nice one I have for spark ignition/gas motors. Never gets used anymore...

 

They work by sensing the expansion of the #1 injector line with each pulse of fuel.
The sensor clamps tight to the line to do this with a couple of small bolts.
You can buy the sensor to work with a gasser timing light but they're still spendy> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Adapt...ht_1983wt_1151

Still have to find TDC and mark it on the damper and use timing tape that is marked in degrees.
The tape sticks to the damper and the graduations are spaced according to the damper diameter.
Reason they don't work well for changing the timing is you have to pop the gear off, guesstimate turning it the number of degrees you want to advance timing, tighten everything back up and hope you got it close enough.
Otherwise you have to start all over.
I've known a couple guys who have gotten very good at it and can adjust the timing by light and feel to within half a degree the first time.

 

Interesting device. It works like the Tiny Tach I was going to buy for a 1st gen
http://tinytach.com/

I can see for the one time user, not very helpful other than to check. However, I can see that if you do it enough how you would get skilled at gauging the relationship between gear repositioning and degrees of timing. Would definately take a lot of popping on and off the gear though. If you did get that good, it would be a quick process without the need for a dial indicator. I wonder who makes the appropriate damper tape for that given there is a limited market for that process?