before i didnt know my EGTs so i had a 10 plate. the thing didnt get over 600 pre turbo. so i yanked the plate out. now on my 94 auto pumped truck i make 35 PSI and see about 700 degrees if im on it hard. i was amazed at how much power no plate added. my clutch is screaming for life at 30 psi, soo, if this frees up so much HP how come everyone doesnt do it?

 

sounds too good to be true

 

Some people are wiser and know that without a plate eventually your injection pump rack will travel too far breaking off an internal pin that will cost you well over a thousand dollars to fix.

Something is wrong with your pyro, you should be able to easily hit over 1500° with no plate.

 

yeah put your plate back in grind it flat first and push it full foward but save your money now and put that thing back in

 

hey thats why i made a post. but seriously, the thing made soo much power i about $hit. so if i put the plate back in will DVs do about the same as no plate? then to the pyro. they gauge just does not show hot any advice on how to double check the temp.
if i let it idle it will drop back from 700 to 300 in just a few minutes.
thanks

 

If you grind the plate flat it will be almost the same as no plate without the danger of breaking anything. This is what's called a #0

Your pyro temps are almost about what I would expect if the probe is installed after the turbo.

 

I have 191 dv's and a 10 plate 3/4 forward , and i can peg my 1600 degree pyro temporarily , it levels off around 1250 at 100 mph.

 

What he said..

ive ran no plate before, EGTs are outta control... believe me, and well its not good, i dont wanna risk damaging that pin..

Rick

 

we made that mistake at school runnin one on the dyno, and it was stuck at WOT and wouldnt shut off, it didnt run away, it just held 3,000rpm, so somebody slaped a clip bord over the intake

 

your pyro must be broken.

 

it can't be rack travel related... there is a rack stop at the front of the pump... we just recently discussed replacing the front plug w/ a mack plug for more travel, so there's no issue from a rack travel standpoint.

some people have talked about the lever arm diving under some pin... just cut you a nice deep plate and don't forget to dive into the AFC and find you some hidden fuel!

 

it's funny i pulled my 100 out today.... it did make it come alive more on the top end..... i can hit 1400 preturbo once i get to the top of 3rd just a little quicker than before...... i was told by a reputable disesl mechanic/race truck builder that the plate is only a stop.... and that nothing bad would happen if the plate was removed..... i asked him about that "pin" and he thought i was crazy..... every 12valve that comes into his shop gets their plate removed. i can count over 10 that i see on a weekly basis driving around and have been like that for a few years..... i even measured the travel whith the plate removed and in place and it dosen't travel that much farther without the plate....i'm not worried about that pin.... i'm more worried about my KDP....... just my .02

 

if you pull the plate the afc becomes the stop. you just loose a bit of control with the plate pulled. now with the plate pulled, the afc gutted and a mack plug up front it will be smokin hot. but not the best set up for the street.

 

One broke pump with cure him of removing the plates! Hope he has a lot of money laying around..

Rick

 

if you remove the plate & still have the AFC lever in place how could the rack travel too far to damage anything????? just curious here, I'm sure they're is good reason for not pulling it, but it makes sense to me that if the AFC lever is still there that it would stop the rack from traveling too far?????? thanks, Dusty