when in doubt yank it out!!!!

 

i have come to the conclusion it is nothing more than a wive's tale. we modify our trucks to get max travel to get a bunch of fuel. we cut deep plates, modfy afc's and add a deeper plug to get max rack. now i am sure you can go to far with every thing i mentioned. pulling the plate is not going to break anything. unless you do evey thing esle i have mentioned. and i am still not 100% sure about that

 

Does anyone have a picture of the pin in question?

If infidel says it will break a pin thats all the proof I need, but I thought that it might help some others.

 

one other thing... i thought 35-37 some where in there PSI was inpossible with a wh1c

 

My pump guy (bosch certified pump shop) said that no such pin exsist and it will hurt nothing. I know many who have run 50,000+ miles with no plate as well and have never had them stick. So my question is to those who say it will stick open have you had it happen or are you repeating what youve already heard. If it truly does happen I would like to know why, and would be glad to have learned somthing. If it doesn't then I dont think we should be perpetuating the myth.

 

What do the pullers and racers do? Do they remove the plate? Just curious.

 

The rack pin or (rack stop) is indeed in the pump and will break from time to time. But the only way to shorten it's life span is to have constant rack movement all the way to 21mm's which is were the rack hits the pin. I do not think any racer or pull will be at 21mm's all the time.

 

I would'nt worry about teh plate as much as teh EGT's. They are horrible low. You are way into the 1500*+ range.

Where is your pyro located? Sounds like it is very close to the cylinder head, and not the 1/2" before the turbo where it is supposed to be.

If it is right before the turbo, then it is probably in the manifold "web". Or, it's just broken.

Your EGT gauge is lying to you. Lying gauges lead to blown motors.

My truck with cam head, twin turbo's, and high timing can hit 1600* at 62PSI.


Merrick

 

I've personally only seen one pin break in my many years of dealing with these engines but then again I don't deal much with the sort of people who would even consider running plateless. Most often they are the same folks who want mega horsepower but don't think they need gauges. I refuse to work on these trucks.

Have read of several folks who have broke the pin on various CTD forums. One of the most memorable was a 10 plus page thread on TDR where a guy swore up and down that no harm would come without a plate. His pin finally bit it and he came back with his tail between his legs and admitted he was wrong.

 

Is it a rack-stop pin, or the pin between the rack and the governor arm link?

 

when this pin broke did it run against the gov or run away? also what repairs were needed (just gov work or did it ruin the pump) I dont want to sound like a smart alex just curious and want to have a better understanding of these pumps (which you possess) can you see this pin in the cutaway p-pump photo that floats around?

 

This is all the fuel you will ever need as far as plate/no plate goes:


If you need more than that, then go to injectors, or Delivery valves. I dont know how common it is to screw up a pump running no plate, but I am personally not willing to risk it.... The plate pictured above fuels like crazy anyway.

Eric

 

I agree with Eric, you can get an insane ammount of fuel with a plate, why risk it?

IIRC the pin breaking off (although rare) ruins the IP...

 

It's the rack-stop pin that breaks. Without it you have no throttle control, engine will rev wherever it wants. Fix involves taking the entire pump apart.

Talking with CTD fans over the years my impression has been that running plateless is quite common among teenagers. Not chopping teenagers but with age comes wisdom.

 

Yeah -sort of the smoking crowd vs the non-smoking crowd, eh?

Thanks, Bill