Newbie...
Newbie...
Just activated my account. Got a message from the admin that I should introduce myself in the intro forum. I can't find the intro forum so I'll do it here!
I own a 1996 2500 Laramie, extended cab, 8' bed, 4x4 Diesel Dodge. I bought the truck new. I'm **** about my machines and as a result the truck looks and runs as good as the day I bought it. It now has 150,000 miles on it. Since 96 the only repairs on the truck has been the return line from the pump back to the tank, a tranny seal between tranny and the transfer case, the lift pump @ 86,000 miles and an a/c compressor. That's it! This is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I plan on keeping the truck for ever. The weather in Florida is kind to the bodys of vehicles, and with a drive train that has the probability of outliving the body there is no reason to replace the truck.
I learned of the KDP on this site just recently ( never heard of this before last week). It makes me nervous to the point that it will be addressed this weekend. I've looked at the two most common fixes, the "Jig Fix", and the
"Tab Fix". I like the idea of the "Jig Fix" in that it is the most non-invasive. I've been thinking about the procedure for the last couple of days, and I believe that I've come up with a fix of my own that is simular to the Jig Fix. I'm thinking of cutting a 1" hole in the front timing case cover as closely centered to the Dowel hole as possible (using a hole saw, positive ventilation to the crankcase and the shop vac sucking up anything from the outside). At this point I should be able to look in the hole and see the dowel. I will drive it back in if neccessary. At this point I will drill a hole in the center of a square piece of aluminum plate (2"x2"x 1/8", hole size to be determined later). A threaded nut will be JB'd over the hole in the plate. The proper size bolt will be threaded through the nut and the plate. With the bolt protruding through the plate, the plate will be placed over the hole in the outer case to align the bolt to the dowel hole. The position of the plate will be marked with a pencil, the depth of the bolt will be adjusted (maybe to the point of entering the dowel bore ). Once everything looks good, I'll JB Weld the plate in place and 24 hours later we'll be good to go. I'll take pictures of the process step by step and post them here.
With the jig fix, if the dowel has started working itself out and blocks the bolt , then you must go to the Tab Fix. With my idea the dowel can be driven back in. If anybody see's a hole in my plan, please let me know.
Well guys, that's my intro. Glad to have found this place, glad to be here!
Bananas!
I own a 1996 2500 Laramie, extended cab, 8' bed, 4x4 Diesel Dodge. I bought the truck new. I'm **** about my machines and as a result the truck looks and runs as good as the day I bought it. It now has 150,000 miles on it. Since 96 the only repairs on the truck has been the return line from the pump back to the tank, a tranny seal between tranny and the transfer case, the lift pump @ 86,000 miles and an a/c compressor. That's it! This is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I plan on keeping the truck for ever. The weather in Florida is kind to the bodys of vehicles, and with a drive train that has the probability of outliving the body there is no reason to replace the truck.
I learned of the KDP on this site just recently ( never heard of this before last week). It makes me nervous to the point that it will be addressed this weekend. I've looked at the two most common fixes, the "Jig Fix", and the
"Tab Fix". I like the idea of the "Jig Fix" in that it is the most non-invasive. I've been thinking about the procedure for the last couple of days, and I believe that I've come up with a fix of my own that is simular to the Jig Fix. I'm thinking of cutting a 1" hole in the front timing case cover as closely centered to the Dowel hole as possible (using a hole saw, positive ventilation to the crankcase and the shop vac sucking up anything from the outside). At this point I should be able to look in the hole and see the dowel. I will drive it back in if neccessary. At this point I will drill a hole in the center of a square piece of aluminum plate (2"x2"x 1/8", hole size to be determined later). A threaded nut will be JB'd over the hole in the plate. The proper size bolt will be threaded through the nut and the plate. With the bolt protruding through the plate, the plate will be placed over the hole in the outer case to align the bolt to the dowel hole. The position of the plate will be marked with a pencil, the depth of the bolt will be adjusted (maybe to the point of entering the dowel bore ). Once everything looks good, I'll JB Weld the plate in place and 24 hours later we'll be good to go. I'll take pictures of the process step by step and post them here.
With the jig fix, if the dowel has started working itself out and blocks the bolt , then you must go to the Tab Fix. With my idea the dowel can be driven back in. If anybody see's a hole in my plan, please let me know.
Well guys, that's my intro. Glad to have found this place, glad to be here!
Bananas!
Welcome, Bananas.
I have used JB weld often over the years, good stuff....but I think you trust it a lot more than I would.
Also, it just isn't that big of a job to just pull the cover and put a tab on. Probably not much harder than what you are describing. The jig fix I have never done, but it is probably even easier.
Cougsfan
I have used JB weld often over the years, good stuff....but I think you trust it a lot more than I would.
Also, it just isn't that big of a job to just pull the cover and put a tab on. Probably not much harder than what you are describing. The jig fix I have never done, but it is probably even easier.
Cougsfan
Bananas, I agree with Cougsfan. I just killed the KDP on my 96 about 3 weeks ago. I used the kit from TST Products ( www.tstproducts.com) for $48.00. I am not a fan of Gasket maker if I can get a gasket, so I got one from a Dodge dealer for $42 incl. shipping. Took me about 4 hours but, I could do it in about half the time if I did another one now. Very glad I did it as the dowel pin was sticking out in excess of 3/8 of an inch. This was at 170,000 miles on the truck. You would probably have remove many of the same items to do the method that you are talking about and probably spend a similar amount of time. I was well satisfied with the outcome of the repair. No leaks and a lot more peace of mind.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I bought the timing cover gasket from Cummins for 24 bucks. I also bought the kit, but I only used the tab and the Crank gasket.
The whole job took only a couple of hours, and that sounds like a fairly realistic time estimate to do the job your way.
I would for the peace of mind do the job the right way, thats with gaskets and taking stuff apart and put it together.
It sounds like this is a long term driver for you so invest the time and do the job right.
The whole job took only a couple of hours, and that sounds like a fairly realistic time estimate to do the job your way.
I would for the peace of mind do the job the right way, thats with gaskets and taking stuff apart and put it together.
It sounds like this is a long term driver for you so invest the time and do the job right.
I agree with just pulling the cover, in the end would be about the same time, and prob easier.
And if I was in the market for a truck I'd hesitate about anything with JB on the timing cover, someting to think about if you wind up selling.
And if I was in the market for a truck I'd hesitate about anything with JB on the timing cover, someting to think about if you wind up selling.
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