No I cleaned out the little element in the prescreen ... I couldnt find one so I have one ordered.... but I figured I would clean out what I could.

 

SoTexRattler,
There is no replaceable fuel filter element on a 1994. It is a screw-on filter that is very much like an oil filter except for the WIF sensor that threads into the bottom.

Twisted Shifter,
Any chance the pre-heater element might be burned up allowing a large air leak through the pins into the fuel system? It's located just in front of the lift pump and a very common problem on these trucks of that age. Your problem sure sounds fuel related to me. With the age of the truck I'm guessing replacing the supply and return fuel lines is in order. A new overflow valve is a relatively cheap maintenance item, and I would be changing the fuel filter ASAP. It's surely not a fuel leak, a leak to cause those symptoms would surely be making a puddle underneath the truck.

If these few item don't solve your problem I'm tending to agree with the others on a potential injector pump timing issue.

All these trucks will smoke white on start up, I have completely went through my fuel system and it still smokes for a few seconds upon startup, even on a relatively warm day. It quits very quickly, even on a really cold day and I'm pulling out the driveway to go to work with only 30-60 seconds of warming up.

Keep us updated.

 

I will take a look at the pre heater ...

 

All: Sorry for my confusion but I'm operating on a sleep deficit lately being repeatedly called out to work late at night. That's what I get for trying to think while typing in my sleep...

TJohnson: I really thought 94's had the same replaceable cartridge element hidden behind the jungle-gym of brake lines the later 12V's do... Live and learn..

Keith

 

I would deffenitely guess the timing is the problem. Especially with the white smoke. And being sluggish, its probably way back. I had a pump gear slip on a 5.9 here at work just about a week ago. Hope you get it figured out!

 

Update but not much new …….

Ok I have confirmed that it only does this when its at operating temp. The white smoke all but goes away at operating temp (forgive me on my stupidity about the white smoke, never owned a 12v before)

I ran the truck for a long time after it was up to operating temp and it ran fine other than a slight lobe at idle, this would go away if I barley touched the pedal. I shut the truck off and tried to restart it and bingo it wouldn’t stay running. The idle is only at 400-500 in gear with the AC on so I would assume the idle needs to be turned up, but I couldn’t find the screw before I lost light outside.

I have checked all the fuel lines I can find none that look to bee cracked.
I have replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the pre screen.

I have not checked the pressure ( need to find a gauge)
I could not figure out exactly what the Pre-heater was so I will look at it closer Saturday.


Thanks again to everyone that has helped me out so far.

Twisted.

 

For your truck not to restart after sitting for just a few minutes would take a very obvious fuel leak, your problem lies elsewhere.
Your idle is way too low and would cause starting problems unless you push down on the pedal.
Idle adjust instructions here http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm

 

Hey guys, I had been over on "dodgetruckworld" trying to help "Twisted Shifter" there too.

--------------------
Twisted Shifter:

As I suggested to you over at "DTW" you really need to make a check of the fuel pressure on your engine. That will give you a "baseline" for everything else. "Hemi Cat" and "kandgo" brought up checking the fuel shutoff solenoid on your P7100 Pump. That is very good advice and one thing I forgot about! I have had to replace mine twice on my 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve. The symptoms you describe where "your truck will not restart after running and being shutoff" could very well be the fuel shutoff solenoid. Yours may be partially sticking sometimes. They will sometimes bind-up when hot and after cooling start to work again. The next time this happens, I suggest leaving the ignition key ON, open your hood and push the fuel shutoff plunger UP! If the plunger stays UP and the truck starts, that could be part of your problem! You can clean the solenoid with brake or electrical contact cleaner. When you clean it, I suggest taking some sandpaper or emery cloth and try "polishing" the plunger if you can. When I replaced my first one, it had corrosion on it which was causing it to stick. In many cases, the rubber boot which protects that part becomes torn allowing dirt and dust to get in there accelerating the wear etc.

----------------
The torque for the drive gear nut on the P7100 Pump is 150 ft. lbs.

----------
John_P

 

OK man, let me help you with locating the heater/strainer I was telling you about. Even if it's not your problem you need to familiarize yourself with the fuel system.

Get yourself a short step ladder or sometimes I grab a 5 gallon bucket. Step up and lean over the drivers side fender. Look through all the brakes lines, electrical connections, and everything else in your way to the side of the engine block just above the oil pan. There you will see a lift pump that has your rubber primer button and just forward of it you will see the heater/strainer assembly attached to the lift pump with a 4-5 inch piece of 1/2 inch hose. The bowl can be unscrewed from the strainer and cleaned, it is designed to capture large particles before they go to the filter and restrict the fuel flow. I checked mine with 170K and there was VERY little there. I think it might be different if you were filling up from tanks on the farm or ranch that might be rusting or really dirty.

The heating element is directly above this bowl. There is a short pigtail with a thermostat attached that mounts to the top of the heater/strainer with two small screws that controls its function. It is very common on these older trucks for the thermostat to be toasted and element is often fried with it. Common problem that result from this is hard starting in REALLY cold temps but won't cause starting problems in warm weather unless element is so fried that the cable harness is allowing air into your fuel system. This is the problem I had with mine. I bought parts from Cummins, removed and replaced the parts. I can give you part numbers and prices if you find you have a problem.

Here is the route of the fuel delivery, don't know if it helps but nice to know if you ever have problems:

Tank---Heater/Strainer---Lift Pump---Fuel Filter---Injector Pump---Excess Fuel through Overflow Valve---Return Line to Tank

You will need to set up your idle a little as Infidel described, listen to everything this guy says, I don't think he misses much!

The little bit of lope you are describing is probably a result of the idle, but don't be real concerned if you have a little bit of lope even when you have the idle set at stock setting. That will not affect the performance of your engine.

If your truck is hard to start after setting only a minute or two it almost sounds like fuel is bleeding back to the tank when the engine stops. Maybe someone will be able to say if this is possible with a faulty lift pump or not, I'm not sure if that is possible or not.

Timing problem can still cause the starting problems if it has slipped.

Hang in there.

 

I thank everyone for the help ...

I spoke with the shop thats going to build the race pump and they are positvie that the timing has slipped and thats the problem. So with that info the rebuild begins.....

I will remove the head and pump and prep them for shipping to the machine shop.

I will keep everyone updated as we go.

Thanks again.

Twisted

 

Hmm that is quite a step from a slipped timing to rebuilding the head and IP. Isn't like we are talking about a belt snapping or anything here, just dial it back into spec and drive on. Just thought I'd make sure it was clear if it is timing all you need is a new nut for the timing, the right tools, and a little time.

 

Heehehhehe ....

This truck was purchased for a project truck/daily driver.

I got very lucky in that the wife wants my 2003 and she told me that I could find an older truck and BOMB the dailights out of it. .

SO the parts list has grown and grown......

I am going to do pretty close to a Comp setup and still have a daily driver. I am shooting for 700RWHP.

My thing was I wanted to know that the truck ran before I did that.

 

Well I think I might have got her licked .... bumped the idle up to about 850 running and 700 with AC on in gear. It seems to have fixed the not wanting to run issue. But the timing is way out.