new 12V
new 12V
Just sold my 99 and bought a 96 12V auto. Took the afc apart and played with my fuel plate a little. The break off screw was a pain, but I expected that, but when I got to the fuel plate the fuel plate screws were a pain to get loose as well. I was using a good large screw driver but I rounded the heads on the screws a little, is this going to cause problems later on or not? Also after adjusting the plate do I need to add some locktite to the screws or not?
how do u like the 12v vs the 24v so far?
the rounded off screws will only be a problem when getting them off again, lol. Nobodies said anything about locktite from what i've seen, I saw someone said to use antisieze on the afc bolts though.
the rounded off screws will only be a problem when getting them off again, lol. Nobodies said anything about locktite from what i've seen, I saw someone said to use antisieze on the afc bolts though.
thanks for the reply, I do plan on taking it off again tomorrow and sliding the plate all the way forward. I like the 12v alot. I like being able to pop the hood and turn some wrenches for a little more power instead of a bunch of electronics. My 24V was a very nice truck, but I was constantly watching the FP gauge. 4 LP's in the last 12 months and 1 vp44. If I can get my 12v up to as much power as my 24 was making I'll be very happy with the switch. It also helps that selling the '99 made it possible to pay cash for the '96. No truck payment means more money for future mods.
When you take off the AFC, replace the 4 bolts with Allen heads, your problems will be over. You don't have to remove the intake over the heater grids or the injection line brace, makes working on the AFC much easier. Once you tighten the 2 screws to the plate, use a impact driver and give it a mild whack, no loctite is necessary. Using the same driver makes it easy to loosen them as well. If the heads are all rounded over, get new ones, but the old ones won't hurt anything as long as you can get them tight enough.
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