horselady

I am replacing my fuel lines, and I need some advice. I am considering replacing the whole thing with rubber line ( can buy locally) if I use the rubber line, can I just slide it over the fittings coming out of the fuel tank and hose clamp it in place? aeroquip hose is also a possiblity, if I could work out the fittings. Also thought about buying steel line, bending it and duplicating the factory line. Mine are RUSTED.
Please, does anyone have any recomendation of what I can and can't do on this. The local hyd hose shop guys are idiots.

waldersha

Yes, you can slide them over the fittings on the fuel tank and hose clamp. You'll want to make sure that the fittings coming out of the tank aren't rusted as well though.

Also, just a bit of advice, use some vaseline on the fittings to help slide the hoses on, they fit real tight and it is hard to get them there otherwise. I double clamped mine, probably overkill, but it can be done.

horselady

they don't look rusted, but I did try an old piece of 3/8 and 5/15 line on each one and they went on easily. hopefully, the hose I tried on them had swelled...

waldersha

They were real tight on mine. Hopefully you'll find the same. I definately say to go all the way to the tank with the rubber. It's much easier that way. The return line will be fun to get on at the engine. Good luck.

mmendiola

There are two lines coming from the fuel tank that are mounted on the frame. What is the easiest way to tell which line carries the fuel from the tank to the filter housing. I am installing a holy blue pusher pump.

oldblues

hi
also you could use some stainless steel line that would prob outlast the truchk ?

horselady

fuel lines are DONE!
After gettin greally aggravated with the local hyd shops, I called a guy close to me in kings mnt that put in my convertor and valve body, he specializes in cummins. He called his folks and two days later, I have parker 1250 psi push lock hose with all correct and necessary fittings delivered to the door. I replaced all my lines, eliminated the fuel heater, went all the way to the banjo fitting on the pump for the return line. Only had to remove the fuel filter housing to gain access. left them a little long, (looped them on the frame so I have enough to install a fass pump later) . Going to install some exhause type wrap on the return line where it lies close to the engine just in case, all works great, used lp grade teflon on the pump fittings, no leaks, no problems. He also included the fitting to bypass the filter housing when I get ready to do that. Also ran the overhead while it was down for the fuel lines, I can't wait to try it, it runs smoother that it ever has. Finished it up at dark last night, it has been down a few weeks, but now valves are adjusted, new fuel lines,a nd whole new Moog front end. To the alignment shop on monday!!!

barngal6

horselady,

I'm doing similar project right now (only from front pump to existing plastic tubing)

Having a heck of a time getting the 3/8" supply hose onto the barb into the presfilter, and can't find the fitting to go from the top of the prefilter to the banjo into the pump...

What did you use? I just have a threaded male, I think its 16mm fine thread, none of the local auto stores carry a female to barb like this...\

did you need it and where did you find it?

I'm also wondering, if I remove that fitting, will the male part into the strainer housing be a more normal thread size? I have found a 3/8" to barb that I could use
(if I could get the current fitting oiut of the top of the prefilter housing--its on there tight, like everything else)

waldersha

I could be wrong, but I think the filter housing is different between mine and yours. To get the hoses on the barbs, the easiest thing to do is to use a small bit of vaseline on one side or the other. Should slide on easy then.

barngal6

LOL.. thought I was a wimp cause I couldn't get the hose on...

Turns out the prefilter barb and banjo bolt barb were 1/2"!
I replace the prefilter barb with 3/8" barb,
but I had already wrestled (I mean WRESTLED)
the 3/8" onto the 1/2" hose barb, so I'm leaving it!

Marine grade diesel hose, if leaks at 1/2" barb I"ll replace it when it happens, I'm thinking the marine grade 3/8" hose will last pretty long, even on that 1/2" barb...

Sometimes when I"m struggling, its the brain power thats lacking, not the muscle power...and sometimes its the other way around.
Which means sometimes I have both, and that's when things go easily.
Good times... makes it all worth it...

Swarthy Dago

with 204,000 miles, I just changed most of my hoses, again, one thing to keep in mind that I have not read here yet, is that these rubber hoses will soften up in time and the will collapse from the suction. what a headache that ole return line lmao.