12valve1/2ton

i have a 96 12 valve with an auto tranny and i was wanting some opinions on if i should stay with the auto or convert to a nv 4500 and where i might find one if decided to go with that. I know that the nv 4500 has a problem with 5th but it is relitivly easy to fix. I was wondering what kind of diffirance there are in the p- pump and if that would matter i want the truck to be fast and i dont think shifting it will be a problem but i also know i cant shift as fast as an auto tranny can but i like not having to worrie about the manual going out and i can get every thing i need to switch it over for the same price as building my auto so i was wanting some opinions on witch derection to go with my transmission.

patdaly

If I were worried about acceleration, I would spend the money to get a built Auto.

I like the feeling with a stick, so that's the way I have decided to go......but it was a hard decision.

12valve1/2ton

i know what you mean it is a hard decision and i think i can stand to loose a little acceleration for the added security of not having to worrie about the auto going out i just cant make up my mind i need more pros and cons so i can make a more informed decision.

lgp9999

I'm more than just a little biased, but I say NV4500 all the way!

justme-

I would say it's a lot less work to rebuild and beef up the auto than do a conversion- maybe those who have done a conversion can give an idea of cost so that aspect can be compared. Don't forget, one doesn't need a $4-6K replacement unit- the one you have can be redone for less.
Wanted a stick when I got mine (had not even heard of the issues with the auto), but the deal I found on mine was what I wanted to pay and had everything else I wanted so I have an auto. Cost me less to have mine rebuilt and moded (2x) than a conversion would run from what I could find.

12valve1/2ton

the work isnt an issue with me i love working on my truck building 4x4s is what do for a living so thats not a problem and i have found everything used for about what i can have my auto rebuilt for unless i rebuild the auto myself witch i think i can do. The parts for that are only about 300 bucks but then theres the chance that i will do all the work and it wont pull. but then im only out 300 dollars so i figure its worth a shot if it works it will save me paying 2000 to have it rebuilt if it doesnt then whats 300 dollars when your spending 2000

justme-

Depending on how beefed you want it- is going to depend on what the parts cost- you have not factored in a new or rebuilt TC for that cost- they run at least $650 and it's a basic requirement- when the TC fails the tranny needs a rebuild again (been there - happened last winter - tc lockup clutch failed and sent particles everywhere via fluid).

You also may want to look at adding the 4 gear planetary, extra sprag, changing plates/steels in number, forged input/output shafts, 2nd gear band lever, accumulator piston.....
Unless you are intricately familiar with the working of autos, I recommend having it done by someone who is- if you don't make the correct changes you will be rebuilding it again so it will be a waste of that $300 anyway.
Talk to a shop about just having them do the mods you want and the rebuild itself and save the labor on the R&R. Cost less than $2K to have mine done originally with the updates, but they helped me out on the labor cost a little- should have been about 2500- including r&r

I've had mine upgraded to essentially a 48re (sprag, new planetary, extra clutch& steels) and the pressures and valve body tweeked.

boil it down to this- if you want to drag race the truck (strip or street) the auto is the way to go, and spend the $$ on the good parts and tuning. If you just want to drive and try to outrun Macks, take your pick of which you prefer to drive.

The parent tranny of the 47re, the 727, is quite capable of over 1000HP reliably on the drag strip when built up right so it stands to reason it's descendant is as well when properly done- it's just getting the right parts and doing it the right way

patdaly

The key there is to build the auto so it doesn't break.

First time, swallow real hard, and never look back. If I had decided to keep Brownie, it would have taken most of the sale proceeds from Greenie to do it, but that is what I would have done.

Big Deezul

I did the conversion in a day...its pretty simple really.

I like driving the manual better then the auto, but the auto is quicker no matter how quick you think you can shift

12valve1/2ton

ya this is true and i have never owend an automatic until i built this truck and i was looking for a manual donor truck but i found this one so cheap 3500 for the whole truck and all the manuals i found were duellies and i didnt want that in a short bed single cab truck so the auto is the way went thinking i would just convert it later but now im not sure stock the truck was pretty fast even with 38x15.50s on it and then i added the 0# plate 4k govenering springs and the valve springs and now it alot faster but it has only ran right for a couple of days and the tranny is already almost gone it bearly pulls its self. So im having a hard time deciding but i think i can handle loosing a little time in between shifts to have the security of not having to worry about the tranny a clutch is cheaper than a transmission rebuild any day it least on that i need for my motor is anyway

Big Deezul

with all that said...on my 24v I did a pretty basic rebuild with a few upgraded parts and used a goerend vb and goerend single and I never doubted that trans. It would tow like a monster

Robert Rausch

Good for you for thinking about rebuilding it yourself. I'd say go for it! That's the way a guy learns and masters things. I've rebuilt quite a few sticks (3-speeds and 4-speeds) but I've never tried an automatic. If I had a clean environment to rebuild it, it might be different. The last old Chevy 3-speed I rebuilt was on SWMBO's kitchen table... luckily she was out of town for a week, but sometimes a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do.

12valve1/2ton

i think i can do it i just have to decide if i even want an automatic. You wouldnt believe how many people told me not to put a diesel in a short bed single cab gas burner they all said i was crazy and that it would never work some even said it was impossible i just told them that it would work and kept at it. So if i decide to go with an auto i will for sure at least try to rebuild it myself because if all i ever do is listen to the people who tell me i cant i will never learn how to do anything. Thanks for the encuragment its nice here someone say go for it every now and then other than you cant or thats not possable. im not one to give up easy so even if it takes a few tries im sure i will figure out how to rebuild an automatic transmission.

gorms

I was in the same boat a year ago, but I could afford the 1200 or so to rebuild the auto and no way could I afford the 2500 minimum for a 5 speed. Now my input seal (or something else in the pump) is leaking, and I lost 4th gear. I'm sick of dropping the pan and spending $60 in fluid any time I want to make an adjustment. So now I'm waiting for a NV4500 to show up any day now, along with some other goodies.

If you are familiar with rebuilding automatics, then I'd say go with the rebuild. But I won't lie to myself, I didn't really know what I was doing when I rebuilt mine. Wasn't really hard, but there are a thousand details that can make or break the rebuild. I guess it was a success, but it just makes a little more sense with a manual, no guessing. I'd love to have the nice testing equipment of a transmission shop, then I'd keep mine and make it right, because it's called automatic for a reason. But for a simple shadetree mechanic like myself, a little bit of planning for a 5 speed conversion is the no brainer.

12valve1/2ton

i think im going to take your route and just put a five speed in it but im having a hard time finding one and everything to switch it over so i was hoping some of you guys on the forum might know where there is one at 2x4 or 4x4 works for me a would almost rather have a 2x4 and run a divorced transfer case so my driveshaft angles arnt so bad. I also need to know haw far back in years i can go and still have the tranny work on my 96 will a 1st gen tranny bell housing flywheel and clutch work or do i have to have one out of a 2nd gen 12 valve and how new can i go i no the nv 4500 hasnt changed but the bell housing and the adapter from the engein to the bell housing might have i just need to know my options on what will work so that i will have a better chance of finding something if im looking for a 95 98 1/2 transmission and 89 2001 will work i am really narrowing my search and i dont want to do that so if anyone can tell me exactly what years will work with my motor i would appreciate it thanks for all the help