title says it all, i have a 96 12v with only a AFE filter... looking for cheap and easy upgrades(under $300 each for now) to make my machine rock... will be upgrading to 4"+ exhaust asap, but was looking for info on makin this diesel a rigrocket... pls be gentle on me, as i dont know most of the terminology, but after drivin this truck i will never drive anything else ever again...... thnx for all the advice as i know this site has such awesome responses
edit:Manual 5 speed, not sure what rearend is in it..

 

Gauges.. Then after that the free upgrades would be adjusting the fuel plate position in the pump and adjusting the AFC. A few bucks after that would be a 3K governor kit and possibly grinding your plate or getting a different profile. Depending on your transmission (auto or stick) you will then need to save your pennies for some holding power.

 

3K gsk is free too, do a search "free gsk" and you don't need gauges for that one. I've heard that sliding the fuel plate and AFC mods will slip a stock automatic so if you have one you might want to hold off. Of all the mods i've done to my truck the GSK is my favorite fells like an extra 50 HP just by being able to run it up to 3k rpm instead of defueling at 2300.

 

i agree 100% with recklesskelly. i just put a bone stock 1995 motor that had a A/T behind it in my truck that had a 500hp 1998 12v in it and after puting 20miles on that stock motor the power was horrible so i did the FREE 3k gsk and gutted the afc(make it smoke a bit) and put a #0 fuel plate in and it was incredible the differance it made but it would be advisiable to get gauges boost, EGT, and trans temp if A/T. especialy if u haul heavy. if u want more boost take a pair of vice grips and pinch off the wastgate line. u will be able to get 30 to 35psi if u have the stock HX35 turbo. even with these little mods the egt's will clime. i grossed 30000lbs last weekend and i had plenty of power on the hills but i had to pedal to keep the egt's in check. not to scare you any but egt's are something that really need to stay in check. happy dieseling!!!! p.s. if u could fill out your signature about your rig and what u have done to it. it will help everyone help you

 

the most expensive single thing you will have to buy to make this truck quick is a good transmission or good clutch.

 

Dunno what you mean by AFC.. will look up grinding the fuel plate and getting the 3k gsk

 

AFC=Air Fuel Control. It is the thing that sits on top of your injection pump. You'll have to take it off to get to your fuel plate. It controls how much fuel you have at a certain amount of boost. We mod it to increase the rate that fuel is delivered, but can make your truck smoke like a freight train if not done properly, unless your into that sort of thing. IMHO smoke is unburnt fuel, unburnt fuel is wasted horsepower.

 

Here is some reading for you. Pretty good rundown on cheap power mods.

http://dieseldatabase.com/read.php?id=58

 

What kind of gains are we talking with the different plates? What does the numbering of them indicate such as 0, 5, 10?? Is the stock valve train capable of the 3k RPMS that it would then be fueled up to? Do the power bands continue to climb at 3k on a stock motor with one of those different fuel plates?

 

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/bd...stop-plate.htm here is a chart for the different power levels that can be acheived. the chart does not show a #0 but a 0 is full amount of fuel through out power band

 

A different fuel plate will definely give you more power and put you back in the seat but it won't change the governor.. (where power starts to die off), but pulling from a stop sign in 2nd if you mash it she'll put you back with a fuel plate , You can take your stock fuel plate and slide it forward for a bit more power but an aftermarket one would be best.

The 3000 rpm gov. spring kit is a GREAT mod, a bit of a pain to install but its so awesome to be able to FEEL the power up to about 3000-3200 rpm's or so.
instead of the power dieing off at 2300-2500 rpm.

The number indicates how hard its gonna fuel. So a #0 plate is gonna be an all out make power and smoke and EGT plate... a #100 plate fuels like a #0 plate at full throttle but fuels like a #10 plate everywhere else..best of both worlds

 

Excellent... I have to build my gauge clusters, but this stuff sounds worthwhile to do for sure! How much power and RPMs are these stock motors (bottom end and valvetrain) able to put up with? Doubtful I will be doing very much racing or anything crazy, but if a 100hp or so gain is that easy I may as well!

 

I think pullers have spun these 12v's up to 4500-5000 rpm on stock bottom ends.

pretty strong.. you don't have to worry about a thing.

 

if you crank the motor over 4k rpms it is a very good idea to put a fluidampr harmonic balancer on in place of the stock balancer. and heavy duty valve springs

 

Wow... these things are pretty robust! Being such capable engines, why did they come in these trucks so detuned? What other applications did this motor have?