Locking Hubs For Our Babies!!!!
Locking Hubs For Our Babies!!!!
Hey guys I don't know how many of you are interested but I know I have always wanted to convert the front axle on my 96 2500 to a manual locking hubs.
The benefits over our CAD systems are unbelievable. Less wear and tear on front axle parts and better fuel mileage to say the least. Not to mention that this kit from Dynatrac comes with Warn Premium Hubs. That means security, when you need to lock that front end in you pull the lever and hop out and lock the hubs and it's in until your done.
I had a Jeep Cherokee with this same CAD design only to be left stuck in the snow when the vaccum motor wouldn't slide the fork over with my 33"s and a locker.
Oh wait that's another plus, you can put on a locker without always turning your front driveshaft, another treat I learned from the Jeep, install a locker with these crappy systems and your driveshaft always turns with the tires, again more wear and tear.
Now the unfortunate downside, price. Dynatrac offers this kit in three stages the cheapest costing $1795 and the stage three costing a whopping $3195. Now look at what you get, the kit is worth it, it's just alot to spend unless your a sled puller or go offroad often. I don't do either very often so I don't think I'll spend the money right now.
Heres the link incase you want to check it out:
www.dynatrac.com/p-c.htm
bottom left corner of the page
The benefits over our CAD systems are unbelievable. Less wear and tear on front axle parts and better fuel mileage to say the least. Not to mention that this kit from Dynatrac comes with Warn Premium Hubs. That means security, when you need to lock that front end in you pull the lever and hop out and lock the hubs and it's in until your done.
I had a Jeep Cherokee with this same CAD design only to be left stuck in the snow when the vaccum motor wouldn't slide the fork over with my 33"s and a locker.
Oh wait that's another plus, you can put on a locker without always turning your front driveshaft, another treat I learned from the Jeep, install a locker with these crappy systems and your driveshaft always turns with the tires, again more wear and tear.
Now the unfortunate downside, price. Dynatrac offers this kit in three stages the cheapest costing $1795 and the stage three costing a whopping $3195. Now look at what you get, the kit is worth it, it's just alot to spend unless your a sled puller or go offroad often. I don't do either very often so I don't think I'll spend the money right now.
Heres the link incase you want to check it out:
www.dynatrac.com/p-c.htm
bottom left corner of the page
now thats a thought. I've always liked leafs alot better then this pos coil system with those **** bars to keep the axel in line. expensiv and messy. I wonder how hard it would be to convert?
I must say I havent done it - but apparantely its a fairly easy swap. Not a dirct bolt in but close to it. Id definitely like to drive a conversion before tearing into something like this.
for my rock crawlin rig, i like drive flanges or manual hubs. i have grown quite fond of just pullin a lever and be locked in. no need to go out into the mud and lock the hubs in. for a daily driver i do enjoy just gabbibin the stick and going.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
Are we still debating this. Has anyone come up with an affordable way to convert to hubs like 1000-1400? Or cheaper?
Keep dreaming right. I like my coils over my old leaf springs.
But i do miss my hubs. I hate sealed bearings
Keep dreaming right. I like my coils over my old leaf springs.But i do miss my hubs. I hate sealed bearings
Trending Topics
well if your looking to spend that much money theres a guy that sells a conversion for around 1200$ that gives you manual locking hubs, servicable wheel bearings and rotors you can take off like a normal person isnted of the crap we have. I considerd this when my bearings seperated on a roater change. I pressed them back together though and everythings been ok so far. But at a cost of 800$ for 2 new wheel bearings or 1200 for that kit I was considering it. I'd still prefer a cheaper solution that also adds leaf springs.
locking hubs
Originally posted by Captain
well if your looking to spend that much money theres a guy that sells a conversion for around 1200$ that gives you manual locking hubs, servicable wheel bearings and rotors you can take off like a normal person isnted of the crap we have. I considerd this when my bearings seperated on a roater change. I pressed them back together though and everythings been ok so far. But at a cost of 800$ for 2 new wheel bearings or 1200 for that kit I was considering it. I'd still prefer a cheaper solution that also adds leaf springs.
well if your looking to spend that much money theres a guy that sells a conversion for around 1200$ that gives you manual locking hubs, servicable wheel bearings and rotors you can take off like a normal person isnted of the crap we have. I considerd this when my bearings seperated on a roater change. I pressed them back together though and everythings been ok so far. But at a cost of 800$ for 2 new wheel bearings or 1200 for that kit I was considering it. I'd still prefer a cheaper solution that also adds leaf springs.
There are a few guys over at www.pavementsucks.com that have done coil to leaf swaps on dodges...fairly straight forward swap. Just use the search button and look around if your interested.
I heard somewhere that Ford's locking hubs are not true locking hubs because they have an electronic solenoid that actually engages the axle shafts, but you still get out and turn them like traditional locking hubs. Now whether this is a fact, I have no idea. Has anyone else heard this before?
If one were to do a Ford axle swap, the ideal setup would be a Dana 60 out of a 78 or 79 1-ton...its a high pinion axle with a kingpin style setup as opposed to balljoints...its a stronger setup, and manual hubs of course.
Now the dana 60's under the later model F-350s are balljoints I believe and are true manual hubs also when converted. Many came from the factory with auto hubs, but I believe are direct and simple swaps for manual lockouts...I believe all you have to buy are the lockouts and they swap out.
Now the dana 60's under the later model F-350s are balljoints I believe and are true manual hubs also when converted. Many came from the factory with auto hubs, but I believe are direct and simple swaps for manual lockouts...I believe all you have to buy are the lockouts and they swap out.
Originally posted by 0akman
Many came from the factory with auto hubs, but I believe are direct and simple swaps for manual lockouts...I believe all you have to buy are the lockouts and they swap out.
Many came from the factory with auto hubs, but I believe are direct and simple swaps for manual lockouts...I believe all you have to buy are the lockouts and they swap out.
Before one gets too excited about the F350 axle swap there was a good article in the Four Wheeler Mag about two years ago. Some of the "Dana 60F's" were actually called a Dana 50 Hybrid. Also 99 and newer Super Duty trucks also use a "tracking bar" but more like an alignment bar on a class 8 truck rearend with two rubber links even with the leaf springs. Ford has also had their share of tire wear and alignment problems with this setup. PK


