Ok, I just got my truck in for inspection after experiencing the death wobble almost a month ago now. (And thanks for everyone in helping me diagnose it)<br><br>I took it to the dealer and a local repair shop that specializes in Tire/Wheel/etc called Kill Tire and Wheel.<br><br>I was told that my right side lower ball joint is shot, both front axle u-joints are bad, and my track bar is bad.<br><br>Kill Tire &amp; Wheel quoted me $703 total for the repairs, including labor.<br><br>I took it to the dealer next and they quoted me an amazing $1300.<br><br>This is a two part question. First, what is a reasonable price for these repairs? I thought both sounded quite high, to be honest. Second, the dealer told me that the reason they were so much higher is that they use factory parts, which local shops would. Would I be getting lower quality parts if I went with a local repair shop versus the dealer?<br><br>Thanks!

 

I just had pretty much the same work done on my 95. Track bar replaced<br>with moog, upper and lower ball joints on the right, u-joint on the right,<br>alignment, center steering wheel, check brakes and bearings. Cost $693.<br>All replaceable parts were moog. Had to take it back later to have the<br>axle seal replaced because it developed a leak after they were done with<br>it, which seems to be pretty common. Not sure if that work had anything<br>to do with it, but now I am noticing a vibration at about 55mph that I don't<br>remember from before. Anyway, your price sounds fair to me.

 

that price sounds good. If you have ever done the u-joints on a dodge they are A PITA. trying to the the rotor assembly off is like trying to cut down a tree with a weedwacker. Took me 5hrs to get one off. I have been lucky I have not had the seal start leaking yet.<br>DM01

 

I had to replace the dreaded passenger side front axle seal. It was a PITA for sure. I'll buy the proper seal install tool next time I do it. Someone here posted a little trick to loosening up the front hub assembly. You undo the 4 bolts, turn the front wheels, jam a socket between the u-joint and the diff housing and turn the wheels the other way. Supposedly pops the hub right out. I haven't tried it but it sounds like it'd work slick.
The dealer I bought my truck from had a bunch of front end / brake work done before I bought it. I replaced the u-joint when I did the seal. I'll check the receipts when I get home from work today.

 

doomgaze go to baker auto sales talk to Dan V.<br>he works on my truck.<br>affordable and does excellent work<br>tell him punk sent you

 

Home now. Ball joints were $83CAN or $56CAN each. Labor was 6 hrs to change all 4. The u-joint was $72CAN. Divide by 1.5 to get US dollars.

 

Dont feel to bad. I took my truck in because it was wondering with 110 000 kilometers on it and they gave me an estimate for 2900. 00!!! Worst part was this was after it was in at 60 000 kilometers for a new track bar and inner drag link.<br><br> I have a buddy who works at the chrysler dealer and was able to get most of the parts cheaper and installed grease fittings in all the steering componants so they would last longer than they did. Being a 2001 aftermarkets parts are not avaliable so the dealer jams you big time for parts. <br><br>BTW if anyone knows where to get aftermarket balljoints for the 2001 4x4 I could really use a set as mine are about to fall out..lol :P<br><br><br>Jason

 

[quote author=thepunkno1 link=board=16;threadid=11738;start=0#111628 date=1046815393]<br>doomgaze go to baker auto sales talk to Dan V.<br>he works on my truck.<br>affordable and does excellent work<br>tell him punk sent you<br>[/quote]<br><br>Will do. Thanks!

 

My thing is... if Dodge track bars are notorious for going bad... why would I WANT factory parts? Wouldn't it only make sense to try the the little guys who will be using other brands? Can they be any worse than the stock track bars?

 

[quote author=dodgeman01 link=board=16;threadid=11738;start=0#111499 date=1046794217]<br>that price sounds good. If you have ever done the u-joints on a dodge they are A PITA. trying to the the rotor assembly off is like trying to cut down a tree with a weedwacker. Took me 5hrs to get one off. I have been lucky I have not had the seal start leaking yet.<br>DM01<br>[/quote]<br><br>Dodgeman;<br>The next time you need to pull a front bearing assembly call me.<br>I've got a puller that can take them off faster than you can get a wheel off. ;D ;D<br>A local tire shop call me to take them off for them when they have to tear a dodge apart.<br><br> : Eddie : 8)

 

I sure will man that was not fun. started when it was light outside came in at 12:00 tired coverd in greese and dirt. blood dripping from my fingers boy was I a mess. But I got it fixed [undecided] <br>Thanks<br>DM01