I think you can take your old/cracked case to Cummins and they will tranfer the data plates onto a new case. (probably for a fee!)

 

I always pop rivet the CPL plate onto the top of the radiator support after changing cases, easier to see anyway.

Most Cummins shops no longer remove the cam when replacing the case, cuts about $600 off the bill, you don't have to take the front end all apart. First turn the engine till the line up marks on the gears are lined up. A high quality three prong puller (Snap On is best) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special Cummins puller made just for it that works way better. The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.

The gear can be heated in two ways, 1) Toaster oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2) Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. Set the temp around 300 F. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the meantime you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and get stuck half way.

You need an extra hand for a few minutes to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump (don't drop the pump actuator arm into the crankcase!) and using a pry bar on the cam lobe, apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam can move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp welding gloves and slide the gear back on, sometimes might have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer.

I would only recommend this to someone with experience. Sounds a little complicated but is way easier. There are three draw backs: 1) gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2) Not aligning the crank and cam; 3) Allowing the cam to move back and pushing out the rear cam plug, then you will have to pull the engine.

Some people think this method causes a weaker fit for the gear but Cummins has been using this method exclusively for several years, I've never heard of a problem.

 

Well im trying the easy way out.My Gear case was cracked but not too bad.I pulled the timing gear cover and the old Dowell pin fell right out.The gears seemed ok so all i did was use a hammer and punch to gently knock the broken section back in place and then ground it out a little.I then applied a few coats of JB Weld.Im hoping this atleast gets me by for a while as i was quoted $500.00 for a new gear housing and i also dont feel like pulling the camshaft out at this point.I use my truck for my business ( Auto transport ) and the down time right now will kill me.Ill post and let you all know what happens.

By the way check out my gallery to see what my truck goes through on a daily basis Got to love the Cummings.

 

Nice load! What is that about 22K?

Some people are able to get by with a J-B Weld job but what makes the difference is if the case is cracked all the way from front to back. What happens if it is cracked all the way though is the case loses it's structural integrity and will eventually crack on the opposite side by the injection pump.

Besides supporting over 100 pounds of injection, power steering and vacuum pumps the case also is holding back all the torque to drive these pumps which is considerable. When the case breaks in two all hell breaks loose with it, major oil leak, the cover will get bent up and the drive gears will unmesh. You're not going any further. Make sure you put the old KDP or a new one back in as this will help keep everything in place.

I would consider the epoxy to be a temporary fix.