12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

KDP and timing.

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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 08:38 PM
  #1  
Troutstrannysvc's Avatar
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KDP and timing.

Saturday I plan on tabbing the KDP as it hasn't been done yet.
And I also plan on checking and maybe bumping up the timing.

I searched some threads and to my understanding that the only tool needed for the KDP process that you wouldn't have laying around the shop is a DV Socket?
Do any local parts stores carry these or where would be a store to check out to purchase it.
I read that you can use vicegrips to substitute but I will probilly just purchase a socket if there is one locally.

What gaskets/seals will I need for this job?
Timing case cover gasket.. and which seal? front seal?
Any others I'm missing?

We are also flushing the radiator out and changing the oil and oil filter.

As far as timing goes.. Does anyone know what the stock timing is on a '95 3500 4x4 automatic?
What do you gain as far as bumping the timing up, what is safe, what will I gain? How do you determine what timing is best suited for the injectors, starwheel placement, and fuel plate that is on the engine? Where will I notice the power, ect ect.
Are there any "How-To's" on timing?

Thanks
-Jared
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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TIMMY22's Avatar
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From: Land of milk and honey.
For the kdp a torque wrench should be about the only special tool, feeler gauges are handy but not nessesary.

http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
Timing instructions http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Blast Chamber's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
I found the Cummins Engine Barring tool to be invaluable when doing the KDP fix alone. Keeps the crank from turning while taking off the vibration damper, and allows you to turn the engine to tighten the gear cover bolts hiding behind the camshaft gear. You can get it from Cummins or maybe even from Napa for around $40.

Also, a 1-7/16" open end wrench came in very handy for removing the fan hub nut. I didn't have one and bought one a my local hardware store for around $15. Remember that it is a REVERSE THREAD. Just tap the wrench with a hammer a couple of times and the nut should loosen.

The hardest part for me was installing the new crank seal in the cover. Make sure you are very careful while doing this or you will ruin the seal.

Also, I recommend the patented "Box5 cardboard bolt jig" for keeping track of all of the cover bolts after removal. They are of various sizes and lengths. I just traced the outline of the new gear cover gasket onto a piece of cardboard with a sharpie and punched holes where the bolts go. Worked great.

Good luck, hope this helps.

- Mike
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