KDP tabbing tips
KDP tabbing tips
I ordered the KDP kit from TST, and plan on doing this job thursday night becuase I want to go to a roping saturday.
I know the kit comes with instructions, but I was hoping to get some pointers, or tips from anyone that has done it. There are always some time savers that you come across when doing a job that the instructions dont include, and that is what I am looking for in you guys.
So,,,,fire away. Whats the estimated time frame here.....3 hours?
Would it be beneficial to remove my front end replacement bumper first? Its huge.
Thanks.
Phillip
I know the kit comes with instructions, but I was hoping to get some pointers, or tips from anyone that has done it. There are always some time savers that you come across when doing a job that the instructions dont include, and that is what I am looking for in you guys.
So,,,,fire away. Whats the estimated time frame here.....3 hours?
Would it be beneficial to remove my front end replacement bumper first? Its huge.
Thanks.
Phillip
Not to many time saving suggestions, just remember the fan nut is reversed and don't laugh as I have helped several who has beaten the heck out of it. And speaking of fan nut, if no wrench is available I have used a drift and tapped it off. The fan nut and the resovoir wires are the two most forgotten. I have not used the TST kit before and I would assume it has everything, just be sure thier tab is stronger than the one Cummins sells.One more thing letting the air out of the front tires will save your back. Goodluck,,,Rick
Palmetto: First things first. Get a big piece of cardboard and slip it between the radiator and the fanblade for protection. Ya' don't want to create more repair jobs than what you started with...
No need to take off your front end or anything else major like that...
Back when I did mine, the biggest PITA was dealing with the fan... It's bulky and awkward but I was able to get it out even without taking the lefthanded bolt loose(couldn't get it off). I took the whole fan bearing mounting block loose from the engine block. Then, by carefully rotating the fan and pushing the upper rad hose out of the way, I was able to extract the whole fan assy without taking anything else loose! It IS a rather tight fit, be patient and take your time. I promise! it DOES work...
The cast iron bearing block sort of flops around on its shaft and that has to be hand rotated to clear some stuff as you come out with the whole assy.
If you do get stuck and can't get it out, take the upper rad hose off and that should let it clear. The protective cardboard will be VERY apparent why its there by now!
The coolant bottle and the windshield washer bottles can come loose now and then you can remove the plastic fan shroud and other stuff.
NOTE: Make a mental note which position the blades were in as they cleared the hoses etc as you remove it.. After you're thru with the tabbing, the fan's gotta go back in the same position!
After pulling the harmonic balancer bolts the cover comes right off with ease.
I had bought a new metal Cummins accy case cover gasket, but if I had it to do over again, I would have saved my money and just cleaned the Rotella off of my old one and slathered the included silicone gasket maker on it.
By now you've gotten a good look at the "KDP" as soon as you have pulled the cover.
See if it is sticking out and pound it back in if possible before tabbing it.
Check the torque on the other accy case mounting screws but don't go crazy!
I had one dilemma on mine.. I wanted to check the torque on the capscrews under the cam gear but the holes in the cam gear would not let my little metric socket clear to unscrew it to put some more LocTite on them even if they were under torqued.. I decided on leaving well enough alone! I didn't crack the existing loctite on the bolts under the cam gear as I didn't have a way to re-loctite them...
TST's instructions were very well written and I had no problems other than the difficulty with the case bolts under the cam gear...
Oh, It took most of the whole afternoon for me to get it back together.. Mosquitoes added impetus to complete it too!
Good luck and be patient.
Keith
No need to take off your front end or anything else major like that...
Back when I did mine, the biggest PITA was dealing with the fan... It's bulky and awkward but I was able to get it out even without taking the lefthanded bolt loose(couldn't get it off). I took the whole fan bearing mounting block loose from the engine block. Then, by carefully rotating the fan and pushing the upper rad hose out of the way, I was able to extract the whole fan assy without taking anything else loose! It IS a rather tight fit, be patient and take your time. I promise! it DOES work...
The cast iron bearing block sort of flops around on its shaft and that has to be hand rotated to clear some stuff as you come out with the whole assy.
If you do get stuck and can't get it out, take the upper rad hose off and that should let it clear. The protective cardboard will be VERY apparent why its there by now!
The coolant bottle and the windshield washer bottles can come loose now and then you can remove the plastic fan shroud and other stuff.
NOTE: Make a mental note which position the blades were in as they cleared the hoses etc as you remove it.. After you're thru with the tabbing, the fan's gotta go back in the same position!
After pulling the harmonic balancer bolts the cover comes right off with ease.
I had bought a new metal Cummins accy case cover gasket, but if I had it to do over again, I would have saved my money and just cleaned the Rotella off of my old one and slathered the included silicone gasket maker on it.
By now you've gotten a good look at the "KDP" as soon as you have pulled the cover.
See if it is sticking out and pound it back in if possible before tabbing it.
Check the torque on the other accy case mounting screws but don't go crazy!
I had one dilemma on mine.. I wanted to check the torque on the capscrews under the cam gear but the holes in the cam gear would not let my little metric socket clear to unscrew it to put some more LocTite on them even if they were under torqued.. I decided on leaving well enough alone! I didn't crack the existing loctite on the bolts under the cam gear as I didn't have a way to re-loctite them...
TST's instructions were very well written and I had no problems other than the difficulty with the case bolts under the cam gear...
Oh, It took most of the whole afternoon for me to get it back together.. Mosquitoes added impetus to complete it too!
Good luck and be patient.
Keith
Hopefully these cold evenings will last till thursday night. I'll pull her in the shop and do the tab.
I think I will drop the big pipe bumper first. i think it will be easier on the midsection with it off.
Good find on the cardboard. We save all our boxes for jobs like this.
later.
Phillip
I think I will drop the big pipe bumper first. i think it will be easier on the midsection with it off.
Good find on the cardboard. We save all our boxes for jobs like this.
later.
Phillip
Originally posted by Palmetto_kid
I think I will drop the big pipe bumper first. i think it will be easier on the midsection with it off.
I think I will drop the big pipe bumper first. i think it will be easier on the midsection with it off.
It may make it easier if you drop the bumper, especially if it extends out in front of the vehicle about a foot. I used the drill and pin method on mine without removing the front gear cover and the bumper provided a good work platform to stand on.
Another free piece of advice - get plenty of cold beverages - they help you with your patience and it sure is a good feeling when you finished with the KDP knowing that it can't get loose.
John (DH)
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Phillip
There is NO reason to take the shroud off or the bumper or the fluid tanks
Just the fan and the bearing , belt , harminic balencer
No need to drain any fluids.
Fan in 2 pieces is the easiest.
Just make sure that when you put the new seal on the crank that the crank is completly dry and clean.
If you are useing the old seal DO NOT dry it.
Get 4~5 bolts the same thread as the ones that bolt the cover on only about 3 ins. long. [ I forgot the size ]
Cut the heads off and use them as guides to reinstall the cover and use the little plastic seal starter that comes with the seal and you will have no prob.
If you think that you will have a prob with the seal give me a call 502/803-0311 and maybe I can help.
Also I have a little home-made tool to install the seal if you think you will hurt yours.
I might even send it to ya to borrow.
: Eddie :
There is NO reason to take the shroud off or the bumper or the fluid tanks
Just the fan and the bearing , belt , harminic balencer
No need to drain any fluids.
Fan in 2 pieces is the easiest.
Just make sure that when you put the new seal on the crank that the crank is completly dry and clean.
If you are useing the old seal DO NOT dry it.
Get 4~5 bolts the same thread as the ones that bolt the cover on only about 3 ins. long. [ I forgot the size ]
Cut the heads off and use them as guides to reinstall the cover and use the little plastic seal starter that comes with the seal and you will have no prob.
If you think that you will have a prob with the seal give me a call 502/803-0311 and maybe I can help.
Also I have a little home-made tool to install the seal if you think you will hurt yours.
I might even send it to ya to borrow.
: Eddie :
Originally posted by bulthisl
Get 4~5 bolts the same thread as the ones that bolt the cover on only about 3 ins. long. [ I forgot the size ]
Cut the heads off and use them as guides to reinstall the cover and use the little plastic seal starter that comes with the seal and you will have no prob.
: Eddie :
Get 4~5 bolts the same thread as the ones that bolt the cover on only about 3 ins. long. [ I forgot the size ]
Cut the heads off and use them as guides to reinstall the cover and use the little plastic seal starter that comes with the seal and you will have no prob.
: Eddie :
At the time, I was wishing I had some longer headless bolts to line things up without smearing the silicone pooky.
Oh! One more thing... Stuff a clean rag down there by the pan opening to keep from dropping bolts, washers or sockets down into the oily abyss!
Remember, Murphy is not your friend!
Good luck and take your time... It's easy.
Keith
Originally posted by Dojman
Good luck at the ropin. You spinnin or wheelin?
Good luck at the ropin. You spinnin or wheelin?
this is not me, but this is what I love to do!
Got it done. I started it Saturday evening. I only had 2 hours untill I had to go get cleaned up, and go out for my wife's birthday. So my main goal was to get it tabbed, get the gear cover buttoned back up, and then go get cleaned up. I reached my goal, and then left. I got back to the shop at around 10 pm, and it took me 2 hours to finish up. That was from the time I pulled up to the shop, to the time I put the last tool up, & shut the lights out.
So basically 4 hour job for me. I had a little help from my dad. I had him put the new seal int he gear cover, and he helped me get it stared on the shaft.
The only problem I had was getting the fan out. I had to take my upper radiator hose off. Once it was off, it came right out.
My pin was about 1/16" out, and I was amazed at how easily it tapped back in with a punch. I retourqed all my gear housing bolts to 18 ft/lbs., and called it good.
thanks for all the help!
Phillip
So basically 4 hour job for me. I had a little help from my dad. I had him put the new seal int he gear cover, and he helped me get it stared on the shaft.
The only problem I had was getting the fan out. I had to take my upper radiator hose off. Once it was off, it came right out.
My pin was about 1/16" out, and I was amazed at how easily it tapped back in with a punch. I retourqed all my gear housing bolts to 18 ft/lbs., and called it good.
thanks for all the help!
Phillip


