I agree, a couple of hits with a long drift will loosen the fan nut, It is a teflon seal and should go on dry, make sure the crank is nice and dry and clean.
Put the seal in from the backside of the cover. It flares out.
When putting the cover on, make sure you put the seal installer sleeve into the seal first, then slide it over the crank.
A Cummins seal comes with a black dust seal, put it on with the flat side out, before you put on the damper.
Thats just a couple things I learned, done a few.
Don

 

yeah, the crank seal is supposed to go on dry....

 

Yes in this case your all right the teflon seal does not need lubricating- point was on any oil fed seal primary lubrication on startup promotes survival until oil can be supplied. In some cases the grease would attract dirt and grit and hold it on the wear area and create wear. PK

 

Ok, So I proved that I can't read...

Alot of good these instructions will do then...LOL

Serioiusly, thanks guys.. I am going to print this all out for my files..

J-eh

 

I diid the Tab Fix a good while back. Just my 2 cents. You can use a drift on the fan or if you have a rivet gun or air hammer you can give it a couple hits and it should loosen. I put the crank seal in my the cover before reinstalling it. I cleaned the cover and put it in the oven 200 degrees for about 30 minutes and placed the seal in the freezer for a while. I then used a block of wood to start the seal. It went in real easy. I also bought a couple of bolts the same size as the cover bolts and cut the head off and used them as a guide to reinstall the cover. The cover weighs a little and is bulky. With the guide screws I hung the cover then slid it in place. It alligns real good and is an easy installation. Also as I recall the cover bolts are different lengths so I used a cardboard template to hold the bolts as I removed them. Last you have to remove the crank sensor. I found a shim for the gap before I removed it. I then used it to reset the gap on installation. There is a required gap for the crank sensor. If you get it wrong, I think it affects your speedometer, cruise control and I don't know what else. Good luck.

 

I too did the tab method. Some really good advice here. I suggest using "The Right Stuff" silicon gasket material, instead of the traditional Permatex. It works great, high temp, etc, etc. A thin bead with a new gasket=no leaks. This is what almost all pros use in my area, easy to use and just about universal in application.

 

For me I used the kit method from CPFF. It worked great and took about 1 1/2 hours. The main thing is if the pin has moved to far already, in others words, beyond where the set screw will pass the pin, then the cover will have to be removed anyway. A friend and me did both our trucks at the same time. And barely got dirty. I think to do the tab, you will need to get to it from the top and bottom. Just a lot easyer.

Good luck.

..PT..

 

I think when I get around to mine, I will just go ahead and pull the cover and go for the tab fix. The cover is pretty nasty looking anyway, might as well take the opportunity to clean things up while I am in there

 

DRM,

My thoughts too. Wouldn't hurt to get in there and see what everything looks like anyway. If you are jiggin it and you find you have to pull the cover, well there's an hour wasted. I'm not too impressed with the aluminum cover holding a set screw anyway.

J-eh