I just got this baby and want to take care of this problem before I drive it too far at all.

I want to know what the thoughts are on whether to find a jig and go that route or pull it apart to install the tab.

Also, it looks like Piers is the closest to me. Anyone close with some knowhow??? I am willing to do the wrenching..

J-eh

 

Jason,
It's a simple job (tab method) and the best way to be sure of the fix. About 4 hrs max. Once in there you can see what's going on and retorque all the case bolts. PM me if you want more info.
Andy

 

J-eh,


From what Ive read, the tab method seems like the best method....that way you pull the gear housing and can make sure any of the bolts in there arent loose as well....

I have a couple of links that may help and some instructions....

http://www.phantomcycle.com/kdpfix.html
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/tab.htm
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...threadid=20858
http://www.flex.net/%7Etriplem/new/dowelpin.htm
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechKDP.htm

here's a fix using the jig method:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Dowel_Pin/bolt.htm

I have called Piers before and they quoted me $150 U.S. funds. Most guys say that if you can change your oil anfd fuel filter, it will be NO problem.

I could try and help ya...just not sure when I will be able to find time.....

If I buy that 12V, I may need to do a KDP too.....

Good Luck.....Shane

 

I did mine this weekend. It is not too bad. I also had an oil leak coming from the crank seal so I had to get into the cover anyways, so I did the tab method.

Breaking the fan nut loose was a real PITA. I broke a strap wrench and then finally got it by using a tie down. I looped one end through itself and put it over the pulley and then ratched the other end tight to the pass. side framerail so the pulley couldn't turn. Then put a big set of visegrips on the nut and a breaker bar on the visegrips and it broke loose quick.

The other major PITA was getting the crank seal into the cover. I tried for an hour by myself and then finally got another set of hands on it to apply even pressure while I tapped on it and it popped right in.

My pin was sticking out about 1/8".

 

My feeling is go for the easiest fix unless you already have an oil leak at the seal or cover. You can buy a jig for less than the price of the seals needed for the tab fix, do it yourself and be done in an hour of simple wrenching.

 

Well I appreciate the comments guys.. Thanks Andy, Shane as you guys are about an hour from me. Infidel, thanks for the offer in the PM.

I was on the fence about the methods as 1 way with the jig, you don't really know where the pin is or what the bolts on the inner cover are torqued to. But you don't disturb any of the seals.

The other way you have to replace the seals and gaskets which usually causes leaks more than fixes them. But you know for sure where it was, what the condition of the cover is.



Time for the coin toss I guess...LOL.. I am sorta partial to goin the tab route myself. Hmmm

 

Why waste all that time on fixing it right and learning about how it works!!!! Do it right the first time using quality seals and sealants. There will be no leaks as suggested- the grey sealant Dodge uses on the differential covers is amazing stuff but properly applied Permatex high heat silicone sealant put on carefully will seal just well. The installation of the shaft seals is easily done by supporting the inside of the case on a flat surface and using a 2x4 of wood and a 3lb hand sledge. Line everything up straight and one solid but reasonable hit and the seal will be started evenly, applying a small amount of synthetic grease will allow the seal to slide in more easily. Tap in the rest of the way evenly and completely seated put a small amount again of syntec grease on the inside lip of seal which will guarrantee lip lubrication until oil works it's way in running. Check surfaces where seals run for wear scoring and polish with fine emory cloth, any bolts coming out of cast block coat with Coppercoat to reduce thread binding for more accurate torque readings. Details, details- surely all this fooling around takes more time but insures your experience to a one time love affair with the front of your engine. IF you are stuck for tools or help call, it may take some scheduling but I am sure an arrangement can be made to help you. PK

 

The ABDTR#5 is the best..

Thanks for the added pick-me-up PK... I am not really too bothered by the seal thing, other than the shaft seal. I really don't like doing those too much, but I am on the same wavelength when it comes to Nickelcote and good quality sealant. The shaft dressing is the concern, but I have some ScotchBrite pads in my tool box for that job.

They completely steamed the engine before I bought it, so I thought now would be a good time to get into it before it gets too gummy under there.

I am going to do some of that reading that Shane posted and get started. Now just a parts list and a call to Cummins is in order.

 

Watch how you dress the balancer yoke if you have a score, Scotch pads are good but use the emory strips and polish with same method as a crankshaft journal. If you don't you will get a flat spot and create a bigger problem. PK

 

Good point.. I was thinking of the Scotch pads just for the glaze and tarnish for a good seal..

 

A drill press (not turned on!) works excellent for pressing the seal into the cover.

 

LOL...

 

get jiggy wid it seriously though.... mine is jigged. very fast and painless ( thanks dave ) ... scott

 

I thought the crank seal (teflon) goes on dry? I was told by members here to do such, and the "instructions" in the seal kit said the same thing "dry". I was even told to clean with brake cleaner first.

I probably have 10,000 miles on it and so far so good.

The fan nut comes off nice and easy with a metal drift and a good whack or two. Put the metal drift on the outer edge of the nut flat, and give it a couple of whacks (reverse thread). It breaks loose nice and easy that way. Good luck, Kevin

 

If I read the post by Pkennedy correctly he is saying to grease the fit between the seal and the gear housing, not the seal to the shaft.

If its anything like the rear main seal, its a dry assembly.

Good idea for the fan nut.


J-eh