jaconst

I just got a 1996 2500 4x4 5 speed it has a brand new air filter but the pedal is really tight compared to my 95 I had and it does not have no where near the pickup my 95 had the was a manual too. it appears that everything is stock on the 96 as well as the 95 had 245,000 miles and the 96 has 152,000 I am going to change the fuel filter tommorrow what other things can i do for now economically until I can afford more mods. how is the silencer ring removed? I can do alot of

MnTom

First of all welcome to the site. Your '96 should be as powerful as your '95, but you know that. Try checking the boots on the intercooler for leaks. The clamps may be loose or the boots by the inner fenders may have slight wear marks and small holes in them. Does it smoke any? It is possible that the timing has slipped over time to and now it is retarded.
For the silencer, pull the hose off the front of the turbo and you will see a fairly large snap ring. That is what you need to remove the silencer ring. You won't see any more power, but you will hear the turbo more. As far as more power, the first thing you need to do is put gauges on it. I mean pyrometer and boost gauges for starters. Then you can think about sliding the fuel plate forward or putting in a differant one.
Tom

98rammer

that thing should have more power going from 175hp to 215hp. does it look like the pump has been touched (look on top of the injection pump and see if the break-away screw has been tampered with---or that there is one). the fuel plate could have been pulled back by the previous owner if they modified it. if not, then you're on the right track so far.

Tom

jaconst

looks completely stock. I work good if I have reference with me do you know of any books or other publications on bombing out CTD's? if not there should be (hint). my next move will be straight pipe I know a shop in town that will eliminate the resonator and just give me 4" straight on my 95 and both are club cab longboxes they quoted $200 does that sound like a fair price? thanks for everyones help by the way

infidel

No resonator on a '96 it's a catalytic converter and with that many miles I can guarantee it's clogged up, take it off and replace with a piece of straight pipe. Remove the muffler too if you like.

Good bombing tips here http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html and

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm

bulthisl

There is a good chance that the converter is clogged as stated earlier.
This would cut down the power of the truck a bunch.
If you are looking for the prob. change only one thing at a time so you will know what fixed the prob.
Doing 2~3 things at a time you will not know what fixed it or if one of the things may have hurt your power.

Good Luck !

: Eddie :

98rammer

4" for $200 is a great price if it's the whole thing, however, what are they doing? your stock exhaust goes from a 3" ID downpipe to a 3" inlet cat to a 4" outlet, then to the muffler with a 4" inlet and a 3" outlet, then to the tailpipe which is 3"ID. most shops seem to only charge around $60 to put in a piece of 3" straight pipe. but 4"....what about the tailpipe (most 4" tailpipes are around $125-$150)?

Tom

jaconst

I have a few things on my list now. would anybody know or do they have a really stiff fuel pedal?? my seems really stiff. also the clutch fan seems to engage and disengage alot and is really noisy. the power loss or actually after a 300 mile trip today just seems like throttle response and exceleration top end is pretty consistent just getting there got a little better as I drove it more and fuel mileage of 15-16 empty I hope is cat and hopefully take care of tommorrow. also seems to be my 4x4 light would blink on and off a little bit but 4x4 was not engaging and I was not trying to engage just light would come on and sometimes flicker going down freeway. and lastly does anyone know if I can either go to junk yard or order a chime instead of buzzer for door open lights left on and wait to start and if chime mechanism would work from different truck? I now have the annoying buzzer and I like chime better. and THANKS again everyone for any and all help.

Forrest

I don't know why they don't leave well enough alone, but they went & dicked with the linkage. I've got one. As a matter of fact, when the springs get tired, you'll get "bucking". There's a linkage kit that fixes it.

On the up side, that pump is really sensitive to making hp. According to TST, sliding the plate gives 40 to 60hp. That's a free 120 + ft-lbs.

Solo fuel mileage should be more like 20 w/3:54 gears. Dodge makes a "test pipe" that replaces the cat. It's a 3" to 4" pipe, nice piece. One of the local muffler shops swapped it in for $50, no receipt.

turbo thom

One thing that will cause a heavy petal is the linkage, the ball ***** on the end of the rod being rusted. Also check the return spring. Someone could have changed it for the wrong one. Or possibly put a stonger spring on the stop the "bouncing or jerking" they are known for. Also something to check for the sluggishness is the star wheel. It could have been adjusted to far back which will really take the responsiveness away from the fuel delivery. Adjust it a little forward, drive the truck and back down till the smokes gone. There is a lot to do on the P7100.

..Preston..

jaconst

well got the truck back this morning and the main thing was the pump timing was at 11 degrees so they set it at 17 degrees and the valves needed adjustment on the head they checked everything out and adjusted the wastegate ect. ect. but anyways it is absolutely amazing they did not slide the fuel stop plate becuase I think liability, but they gave me literature and price estimates for several upgrades, one is a I think #10 fuel plate for $225 plus $100 install and I would gain over 100 horse and nearly 200 torque which I think I will do next plus they had high flow bosh injectors for $360 and I believe less than $200 install

if anyone is in the madison wisconsin area the company is DIS or diesel injection service in Sun Prairie and they are great to work with they do all aspects of work including transmission and drivetrain. I would like to learn how to slide the fuel plate in the future if I gain power from what I have seems like I would smoke the tires in all gears one happy CTD owner

ddestruel

Don't pay for the plate install, in about 30 minutes to an hour with two or three sockets and some patience you can do it yourself. Dont be intimidated of all things putting the plate in is almost like changing sprk plugs with only a few more minor things involved. YOU CANT SCREW UP so long as the plate is installed squarely and screws are tight, mine got clocked by the shop that put in in on for the original owner of this motor and the govenor arm was falling below and to the side of the plate profile , would have helped if they tightened the screws. Spend the 200 for the plate tune the fuel on the bottom end with the star screw. then look to some more upgrades. Lots of people here can walk you through it, the plate is not picky at all on how it is located yes little changes effect fueling forward and back but it is not a big deal.

you can push 300-380 hp just off that plate by sliding it forward towards the injector lines then once you get it in add a little more air with a hybrid turbo or a hx 40 and youll have a wild ride.

Try the plate first go back for the injectors try incrimental mods too much in one direction, fuel, all at once may make it difficult to get the kind of performance you are seeking or at least dialing it in dont forget you need more air with more fuel past a certain point.

The #10 is an excellent plate. how much power do you want sky is the limit with your injector pump. Cheap upgrades with the old 12vr.

but youll also need a clutch if you start palying with that pump too much. most guys who've put the 10 into 215 pumps are clutchen em not long after especially after they start sliding it forward or pulling.