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Installing clutch Please Help.

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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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abarnar1's Avatar
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From: Speedwell, TN
Installing clutch Please Help.

I will be installing a new clutch this weekend. Any tips that will make the job go smoother? Also is there a set of instructions anywhere I could follow? I think I can handle it but sure would like to have a reference if I run into a problem. Thanks.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 07:31 PM
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the only hard part is removing and installing the crossmember, the rest is straight forward
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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From: Versailles, MO
Hire somebody else to do it?

Same suggestions, use something to spread the frame rails will help with the cross member. Otherwise, it's as heavy as it looks. Have fun.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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I have never had a problem with the cross member that a 4 pound hammer couldn't solve.

Always done them on the ground with a regular 3 tonne floor jack. An extra set of hands is required but not that bad. I split the t-case and tranny as well.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Get a good Tranny jack, not the adapter for a small floor jack. I rented an industrial tranny jack that the truck shops use and it made moving the tranny alot simpler.. Actually I moved both the tranny and xfer case as one whole piece.

The crossmember is tapered, as is the frame to "saddle" the unit. I pounded the heck out of the member only to realize its narrower at the bottom than at the top. When I re-installed it I simply put it in from the front, tipping it upside down then flipping it over and it fell into place. Other than that, keep it clean!!!
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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yea cross members can be tricky...portapower or bottle jack work well to spread the frame rails a bit.

also, the top bellhousing bolts, dont try to reach up there or reach down from the engine bay...i found the best way is to lower the tranny as much as you can after the cross member is out, then get about 2-3' of rachet extensions and an air rachet...sit at the back of the tranny and look forward, you should be able to get them from there
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. A bottle jack and short section of a 4 x 4 lumber did the trick on spreading the frame rails. Got everything unhooked, just waiting on a buddy to help me drop the tranny/t-case. Any more advice would be great.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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beer, you need beer.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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From: Lingleville TX but active duty Air Force all over the world currently
dont break the the little wire clip in the bell housing opposite of where your slave cylinder rod pushes....i did and i had to wait til mondya to go the dealer for a $2.36 part that i couldnt get anywhere else
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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From: Speedwell, TN
Well the tranny is on the ground and the flywheel is getting re-surfaced right now. Does anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel bolts? Also is it better to press the pilot bearing in before or after the flywheel is reinstalled? Thanks.
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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Flywheel is 105 Ft-lbs from what I can remember. I would press in the pilot on the bench myself..
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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flywheel is 95-100ft-lbs...did mine last night. and im not sure on your clutch, but on the south bend dual disc i installed the pressure plate bolts were 45ft-lbs.

pilot bearing...pop it in while its out of the truck.

on the reinstall, put a floor jack and block of wood under the front of your engine, this allows you to tilt the engine back a little bit to help get the splines/pilot bearing of the input shaft lined up if need be. then just use your jack and 4x4 to spread the rail for your crossmember and you should be good to go
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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Well, got everything back together and the clutch holds great. Thanks for all the help.
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