yup mine is at .50 runs strong

 

well I was worried about running it one click looser that would have put about .040 so I went one click more but I might go back one......but the way I read everything it would run a little harder with it tight......am I wrong there if I am please correct me

 

You know whats scary about this, is that I just had the 3GSK from PDR put in and I'm having the same issues?
I have no bottom end power at all, get past 2000 rpm and it screams.

 

well later today if I get the time I'm giong to put my newly ground fuel plate in and double check the line giong to the afc housing and also check the gsk spring height and I'm going to change my fuel filter while I'm back there. I'm pretty much going to change everything and it it works I'll have no clue what the real problem was.....

 

Any luck? I found mine to be the AFC.

 

I haven't had any time to work on it yet my brother needed the shop this weekend to fix his girlfriends truck and I had been using it all week and I didn't have any money to spare on it if I got into it and had to buy anything so I'm driving my dads powerless stroke for now

 

My guess is the camplate and or the afc housing didn't go back in the original place. I get these calls from time to time. It's going to be something very simple. If the above checks out, take a look at something I ran across recently. A customer installed a 4000gsk and ran into a lack of power also. I found out his start stop solenoid that had popped out of it's shaft/plunger collar during install and would start up fine and shut down just fine, but was limiting fuel output. When checked for full pull upwards, it felt like it was all the way up because it was bottoming out on the dropped down collar at base of the solenoid.

Simple test, take off start/stop and wire up the lever. Take truck for a rip and see if this solves your lack of power.

 

the only thing is when I first installed the 3k kit I didn't remove the afc housing......thats why I don't know where I went wrong but I will check the fuel shutoff and if that doesn't work I'll pull the afc housing off put in my ground fuel plate and cut .100 of my afc arm and check the position of the gov. arm too

 

The AFC i dont think will be your problem since it only controlls the fuel at low boost unless the signal line is leaking. with the 3GSK you should have lots of power up to 3000. if you dont have any smoke then you dont have fuel and wont build boost.
i would check the shutoff solenoid then adjust the governor arm to the torque plate. if that dosent work put the stock springs back in and see if it goes back to how it was before.
something has cut back the fuel in the governor at mid rpm and high boost.
my guess is that something is wrong with the shutoff arm/solenoid or
there is something wrong inside the governor
The Gsk springs only say what speed to fuel not how much to fuel
The amount of fuel is controlled by the torque plate and where the arm is contacting it (and the go pedal).

 

thank you thats pretty much what I was thinking on the relation of the springs and rpm and fuel and the fuel plate I'll try the gov arm and the fuel shutoff valve as soon as I can I've just had a hundred things going on this last week I have my daughter down for the week and the fair is going on and my dad just got into town for the first time in almost a year so its been pretty hectic but the fair is almost over....and the truck pulls are tonight and I won't be able to pull mine but I'd probably just break something..... so hopefully next week will be back to normal and I can get some work done to my poor truck

 

twisselman1968 what did you think of the truck pull? Those Diesels sure did SMOKE the competition.

 

I was really disapointed there was no 12 valves but it was nice to see the cummins boys step it up

 

Just for kicks what is your fuel psi running at ....i had that happen to me but didnt notice it until i did some tinkering... i just noticed the mileage on your truck and at around the same i found that the screens in the tank pickup were coated with buildup. i think the extra restriction gave to the wear on the stock lift pump. after i cleaned the screens and put a fuel pump(electric) in i gained tons of power.

 

I don't really know what my fuel pressure is running at and I don't really know how to check it I remember reading some where on here a long time ago that you have to tap the banjo fitting on the outlet side off the pump but thats about all I remember.....what does it need to be and can I put a Holley blue pump on it and do I need to bypass the lift pump or run them in series?

 

yes you do have to tap one of the fittings to hook a gauge into the fuel system. i use the bleeder screw on the filter housing since i already have my boost gauge line running into the cab in that location. all the 24v owners need to keep tabs on the fuel psi but it is overlooked by the 12vers.
13-15psi at idle and 18-23psi at speed. if you find you need a pump a holley blue can be put on. i chose to put the blue on and i love it! guess you can run it pushing the mech pump but i didn't see the need and wanted to remove as much of the clutter on the engine as i could. also considering it was cheaper than the mech lifter was a selling point to me. I used a couple of intercooler mounts from a first gen truck to get rid of the noise and got a handfull of springs from the hardware store to raise the relief psi from the stock 9psi to 19psi at idle and 19psi at wot. i also found while playing with the psi that more psi almost like moving the torque plate forward a little but i didn't want to chance loosing a seal in the injection pump so i put er down to 19....but she sure ran good when i road tested it at bout 26.