12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

injector ??

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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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From: caro MI
injector ??

ok i changed the barrel in the injection pump cause one was broken in half. "this is how i got the truck". but it still dosn;t run right, runs better but not even close to right. when u rev it up i get a huge cloud of white unburnt fuel smoke, no top end power. sounds like a pulling truck when they are getting ready to launch. just with a white cloud instead of a black cloud. i pulled # 1 injector and then pulled #3 "easiest one to get at" and i noticed the 3 holes in the top of the injector from #1 cyl are way way bigger then the #3 Cyl injector. so i am guessing someone changed a injector thinking it was a injector. but it was the barrel broke in the #1 spot in the injection pump.

From what i can find from the part # is i "think" it is a 370 marine injector??? the part # on it is kdal59p14. then on the nosel part it says 6818-265. is that what this injector is from?? isn't putting them in a performance mod?

BUT i guess my ?? is. would having just one of these injectors and 5 stock injectors make my truck run like crap like it does?

and oh before i changed the barrel in the pump i didn't get a huge white cloud like i do now. but it was running on 5.

I have a new injector from cummins coming tomorow. if this don't fix my problem i am toatly lost. i hope its not in the pump!!
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 02:09 AM
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Did you pull the pump off, or did you swap the barrel on the truck?
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 08:02 AM
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i didn't take the pump off to change the barrel. the pump looks as like it has never been removed it is rotten with grease and grime.

It runs a lil ruff at a idel, clears up at about 900 rpm all the way to maybe 13 15 rpm and then starts running like how i discribed earler.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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I'd take the pump off and have it calibrated. If the LPC wasn't set properly when the barrel was installed, then the timing on that one cylinder will be off. Also, it could be delivering more or less fuel than the rest.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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wonder what that would cost?

I drove it some this morning. it has low end grunt like it should but has nothing over about 1800 2 k. it dosn't make a big cloud a smoke while your driving. but it dosn't have any power takes a half mile or so to get to 55, feels like the turbo isn't working, but i can hear it.

And i thought 12v's were easy and bullit proof, boy was i wrong LOL. what a POS this thing has turned out to be for me.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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is it posible that there is some vavle or something in my pump that is stuck making it run rich at low rpms and lean at hi rpm's?? If i absolutly "KNEW" it was the pump i would just buy a new one and put it on ther. but i hate to spend around $1000 on a pump and it still runs like it does.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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From: caro MI
let me rephrase that. make it run rich without a load on it and lean with a load? would the govener make it do this? or does that just control how hi it revs?? i dunno nothing bout these pump's.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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Having the pump set by a shop should only be a couple hundred bucks to have calibrated barring nothing needs replacing, but best to actually talk to a shop about it. Or you can look for a used pump. I have seen them as low as $300, most are in the $500 range.

I'm guessing you have a timing issue with that barrel that was replaced. If the LPC is lower than factory, the timing will be retarded on that cylinder.

Do you have a boost leak by chance? I know when I forgot to tighten up one of the clamps on my 12v, it would pull fine on the bottom end, but once boost pressure would start to build, it would start leaking out the boot (held to 5 psi with no clamp) and it would be gutless, and zero smoke.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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i don't have any hole, or loose clamps in my IC hoses. i am going to drive it to work today and check the IC out for leak. i pulled the vacume hose off and it is not sucking on my finger. will it have vacume at a idel or on the throttle??

Now if it was just the one barrel to me i would think it would run like poop on the 1 cyl that i put the barrel on. not on all 6 right?? and what about the afc?? could something be screwed in there? maybe somebody had it apart and screwed something up? i am gunna pull that allen plug on top and look down in there and see what i see. i dunno what i am looking for but maybe it will be abvious, something missing or something broken off or something?
another thing i can't see my wastegate arm move when i rev it up. shouldn't it move a lil bit while reving it up?

Can a cummins shop, dealer calibrate the pump in the truck or does it have to be out of the truck?

I would feel safer buying a new pump for 800 to 950 then to spend 500 on a used one and get the same problem or even a differnt problem.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 02:40 PM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Originally Posted by jonny mopar
i don't have any hole, or loose clamps in my IC hoses. i am going to drive it to work today and check the IC out for leak. i pulled the vacume hose off and it is not sucking on my finger. will it have vacume at a idel or on the throttle?? No, there won't be vacuum at idle from the motor. There is a vacuum pump mounted below the IP because of that, to actuate the heater controls and the CAD in the front of the truck.

Now if it was just the one barrel to me i would think it would run like poop on the 1 cyl that i put the barrel on. not on all 6 right?? and what about the afc?? could something be screwed in there? maybe somebody had it apart and screwed something up? i am gunna pull that allen plug on top and look down in there and see what i see. i dunno what i am looking for but maybe it will be abvious, something missing or something broken off or something? The AFC could account for the lack of fuel, but not the white smoke. That would indicate a delivery problem, either bad injectors, bad timing, etc. The AFC only controls how much fuel is delivered, not when or how.
another thing i can't see my wastegate arm move when i rev it up. shouldn't it move a lil bit while reving it up? No, the wastegate shouldn't move under free rev. You might make 1 or 2 psi when free revving, your wastegate shouldn't open until atleast 20 psi.

Can a cummins shop, dealer calibrate the pump in the truck or does it have to be out of the truck? I know at the local Cummins here, it will get sent out to a Bosch shop. Start there and cut out the middle man. If you don't mind mailing it out, I hear very good things about Seth at Diesel Performance Engineering in Mo.

I would feel safer buying a new pump for 800 to 950 then to spend 500 on a used one and get the same problem or even a differnt problem.
Answers in red.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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i am gunna pull my pump tomorow. i have nothing better to do. only thing i can think of is that when the barrel broke it prolly wasn't the only thing the water that got in there broke or messed up. i took my fuel filter off and it had elgy in the bottom of it. nasty rusty look crap. My guess is that something in the pump has this same crap in it. so i am gunna take the pump off and tare into it. gotta learn somehow.

only problem i have is i hate to spend close to 1000 on something i am throwing a guess at is gunna fix it. Will a pump fix my problem?? what else good it be on this motor that would do this?? i mean the pump is the only thing it could be right??
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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i pulled my front timming cover off. I think my timming has jumped on my cam?? the dot on the crank and the dot on the cam gear are like 1 tooth off. I didn't pull my pump off yet. i stoped when i seeen this, y the hell would gear to gear timming jump?? the gears don't look worn at all. it dosn't look like the cover has ever been off before.

I have been doing some reading on the net and read something about a dowl pin falling out and punching a hole in the timming cover or something like this?
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 12:20 AM
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There should be two marks on the cam gear, one on the crank. The crank dot should go between the two marks on the cam gear. Dowel falling out won't make the gear jump without snapping the cam.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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well my injection pump gear did slip a little bit. The trucks sound like it runs good now. it just dosn't have any power at all. It has been many yrs since i have driven a 12v but it seams like they had more getup to them then this truck has, i have been driving my 2wd v8 dakota that scoots pretty good, but it just seams like i have no top end to the motor. it has lots of grunt, and sounds great, revs great. It takes for ever to get up to speed. like 1/4 mile to get to 50 to 60. I even turned the pump up a few clicks, didn't even seem to help it. i don't get any black smoke from it either. don't the 12v's blow a bit a black smoke? It feels like its not boowting full psi maybe, or maybe not getting enough fuel maybe? The truck is drivable as is, but i am affraid it might be running lean.

Oh my dowel pin did walk out a lil bit but was still ware it was supose to be. i pushed it back in as far as i could.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Stock 12v's are slow. You have 7k+ lbs truck, and 160-175h at the crank, so 120-150hp at the wheels. Get gauges on there so you know what you are actually seeing.

When you said you bumped up the pump a couple clicks, I presume you are speaking of the star wheel? Thats not going to make a big difference. Moving the AFC and plate is whats gonna get you some power. What does it rev to when under load? Stock, it should pull well to about 2200 rpm, and slowly keep going until about 2900, or there abouts. Stock truck shouldn't smoke unless you are stabbing the throttle, and it should clean up very quickly.
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