12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

injector ??

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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:24 PM
  #16  
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From: caro MI
it will rev to almost 3 takes forever. and when i shift i get a compressor surge sound. like maybe theres a boost leak? this thing is a gutless wonder it is terrably slow. my buddy has a 92 7.3 ford diesel f250 and it is much faster then my truck. I know the 12v's are slow but this thing is dangerusly slow. but now it droped back down to running on 5 cyl's. this time its #2 cyl. GRRR i am really started to hate this truck.

i think i am gunna sell it and cut my losses while i am ahead.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:51 PM
  #17  
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I would say you have a boost leak, its tough to get compressor surge with the HX35 on one of these things.

Pull your pump and injectors at the same time and have a shop check them out. You should find out if you have mismatched injectors at that point as well.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 05:49 AM
  #18  
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From the sounds of things, don't hate the Dodge. Be upset with whoever monkeyed with the truck and didn't know what they were doing. My stock 12v is pretty sluggish, but I chose to keep it that way, because of the auto. Otherwise, you can get an awful lot of power for a little bit of money out of them, if everything else is as it should be.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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Did you clean the pre-filter screen under the fuel heater?
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #20  
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From: caro MI
well i bought a new pump, should have it buy next weekend. i'm tired of messing with this pump. I have to have to have my recalibrated any how, and i KNOW they will find something wrong with mine anyhow. SO Screw it. i bought a new one. It is one that is supose to be 60 HP more then stock. If i had the extra cash i would put a set of 370 marine injectors in it with the pump. I just hope the pump fixes it. when i crack the #2 line on top of the pump i barly get any fuel squirting out of it. and it dosen't stop the miss it has now. and thats the SAME thing it was doing when it had the broken barrel in the #1 spot of the pump. So i am guessing that the #2 one has something screwed with it as well, i just gave up lastnight before i smashed the thing with a sludge hammer. LOL.


BUT mopar1ton ware is the fuel heater pre filter at on it? i have never messed with one of them before. I wouldn't doubt if it was plugged or half plugged the way the fuel filter looked, and it also had offroad fuel in it from god knows from what kinda fuel tank.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 07:39 AM
  #21  
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Look right in front of the Lift Pump, bowl is where the pre-filter screen is.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 07:49 AM
  #22  
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From: Lebanon Indiana
Originally Posted by jonny mopar
BUT mopar1ton where is the fuel heater pre filter at on it? i have never messed with one of them before. I wouldn't doubt if it was plugged or half plugged the way the fuel filter looked, and it also had offroad fuel in it from god knows from what kinda fuel tank.
It is the bottom part of the fuel heater. It screws off of the bottom of it. Mine plugged up on vacation. I could not hold 45mph in the hills on the Kentucky parkway with my 5th wheel camper.
With your new rebuilt injection pump I think you are going to be very happy with your truck!
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #23  
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From: caro MI
mopar1ton i hope you are right. I am having diesel withdrawls after sellling my 04 LOL. i loved that truck just not the payments. I will check that screen out tonight after i get outta work.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #24  
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From: caro MI
ok when i get the new pump. How do i time it? just pin my cam and pump like i did with the stock one? Will i need any special tools? outher then a puller for the gear?
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 12:41 AM
  #25  
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Same procedure, unless you can get a real timing kit. I'd rather do it that way, then you know where its actually at.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #26  
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From: caro MI
there might be one at work, I will check and see. I am getting ready to check the pre filter in a couple minutes here. then head out for some turkey.

Hope everyone has a great turkey day!!!
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #27  
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From: caro MI
that filter was plugged fulll off crap, slimmy white, gooie looking stuff. almost like what paper looks like when it gets wet. like a spitball i guess LOL. The truck does run better, BUT still not running on cyl 2. i am gunna replace the o rings on the barrel and see if that helps. i had it out when i was messing with the #1 spot when i first got it. anlything i can think of is maybe i knickeed a o ring and it blowing pressure by it??
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #28  
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
If its not leaking, I wouldn't think your o-ring is damaged. If your filter looked like that, theres probably a lot of gunk in your pump.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #29  
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From: Seymour Tn
my 12v isnt a slug but its no racer at the same time. i need to service mine. thats comin up this next week. i have the 160 p pump planning on modifying it as soon as i get some gauges. my truck doesnt ever make it to 3000 rpms b4 it shifts and it takes a long time for it to make it to its shift points. 2nd and 3rd particularly the last 100 rpms b4 the shift point the motor jus seems to run out of fuel. I pulled 14,000 lbs from Atlanta yesterday and the truck did ok. there are 2 nice 5% (approx) grades between Atl and Knoxville and the truck held 40 mph up those grades. im not sure if i need to adjust my tps or kick down cable or exactly whats goin on but mine doesnt seem to have the right shift points. WOT it shifts into 2nd at 35 3rd at 46 and OD at 60/61
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 10:17 PM
  #30  
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From: caro MI
ok new pump is on. BUT, they they didn't say anything about the pump beinging pinned. SO stupid me turned the pump over and bent the pin inside the pump over. My fault for turning the pump over before checking. but you would think they would have a paper with the pump stating whats what with the pump. Anyhow. i tried bending the tab back over and it broke off, luckily i was using a magnetic screwdriver and it stuck to the screwdriver and didn't fall into the pump. I could only guess ware the pin would be and put it together like that. it runs but i am back to square 1, lots of white smoke and poping. i didn't even try driving it like this. Isn't there a way to pull the #1 fuel supply vavle out and use a magnetic type dial indicater to set the timeing?? there is one of them at work. my only problem is getting the goofy nut loose that is under the fuel line? any sugestions without buying the special socket??
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