12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

I need some help from the 12v crowd.

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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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I need some help from the 12v crowd.

A co-worker of mine just obtained a '95 from his nephew.....got it super cheap and needless to say, no maintenence was ever done to it. New owner just had tranny (auto) rebuilt and has had a local shop do some quick fixes for cheap to get him by for now. My question is this....how involved and what all is involved to remove the front gear cover to replace the crank seal and cover gasket? It's leaking oil really bad!!!!! I'm going to do the work for the guy so I need to know what kind of mess I'm getting into. Along with that I'll have to replace the valve cover gaskets (leaking as well) and run the overhead....probably the easiest part of the whole deal.

Thanks for your help.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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The front timing cover seal and crank seal are all pretty easy. Read through a write-up on fixing the KDP and it will include both seals. There used to be an actual seal used on the timing cover, but anymore they are just put together with permatex. The Permatex works fine. On the valve covers, get the proper ones from the cummins dealer and don't overtorque them. They should be grey in color. With the valve covers off, it might be a good time to check/ adjust the valves. You might also look at re-torquing the head bolts. Good luck with the new truck.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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I've yet to take a look at it and hoped it wouldn't be a nightmare....sounds like it's pretty straight forward. Had planned on doing the dowel pin fix while it was opened up. If there's anything else I should know please indulge me.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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the hardest part will be getting the crank bolts off and on its an easy fix . just reset the CPS on the dampner to .045-.050 and make sure while the covers off you pull as many inside bolts clean and lock tight them!

or you might be going back in with a bunch of new parts
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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From: Montana
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jhenson
I've yet to take a look at it and hoped it wouldn't be a nightmare....sounds like it's pretty straight forward. Had planned on doing the dowel pin fix while it was opened up. If there's anything else I should know please indulge me.
Yup, TST was the instructions I used. Their kit worked fine for me. Make sure you put the dowel pin back in its home if it has miraculously come all the way out and not hurt anything.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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I just did my KDP last week, with the TST-kit and lots of time on my hands and a good buddy to help get that fan out, it really wasn´t half as bad as I thought it would be.

Slev
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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You might want to clean things up underneath, and determine where the oil is coming from. It is probably leaking at the cover, and the KDP needs to be done, anyway. But, you want to make sure it isn't the gear case leaking- that fix is more involved. I throw that out there, because it would be a bummer to go through the work to pull the cover and fix things, to only find that the case is leaking, too. It can also be leaking at the vacuum pump/power steering pump, and run down to the bottom of the cover.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 06:03 PM
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Will check out TST for sure. He says it looks to him like it's leaking from the gear case....but he's not very engine savvy so hopefully it's just the front cover. Says there is a "very clean spot" at the bottom of it. But, yes, I will definitely take the time and clean it up because he said it's a sludge factory under the hood. Am I right in thinking the crank damper has to come off to remove the cover? I just want to be sure I have everything I need parts wise before I start this project. The fan, shroud and other related parts need to come off too?
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Yep, I took fan and shroud off at the same time, put a piece of heavy cardboard behind shroud before you cut the fan loose, easy to put a hole in Rad.

Crank damper was a bugger to get off on mine, it had rusted in place.
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by patdaly
Crank damper was a bugger to get off on mine, it had rusted in place.
Hopefully with all of the excessive oil and grease that's on the engine there won't be any rust hindering me. Should be able to start working on it next week. I thank ya'll for the help and I'll let ya'll know how it goes and if I need anymore advice.
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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I strongly suggest to check the vacuum/power steering pump ive had a few that were gushers, good thing 11 quarts of oil
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 11:57 PM
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Will check that as well. Thank you.
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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should b very easy if u have any mechanical inclination at all. took me 3 hours the first time to do the kdp. things i ran into was putting the new seal in right. it can b very hard to get started straight and b absolutely sure u follow the intstructions on how to put the case cover back on or u can easily damage the seal and it still leak like mine does another thing to check is exactly where the seal sits in the cover, then go look where the seal rides on the crank. if the crank is worn and there is a groove where the seal used to ride move the seal one way or the other so the new seal rides on a new part of the crank. this will maintain proper seal pressure and help it not leak again for a while. and last but not least be extremely careful when putting the kdp tab and bolt back in! buddy of mine was doing his and happened to drop it down into the pan. and its still somewheres down in his oil pan to this day kinda defeats the purpose of failproofing the engine as u drop all kinds of metal chunks into your motor lol
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DC199512V87
another thing to check is exactly where the seal sits in the cover, then go look where the seal rides on the crank. if the crank is worn and there is a groove where the seal used to ride move the seal one way or the other so the new seal rides on a new part of the crank.
Cummins has speedi-sleeves for the crank seals, then there is no guess work in having the seal positioned in a different place.
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