94dodgeman

I am about to cry over this truck situation! First let me tell you the truck is a 1994 dodge 2500 with a 12 valve and a nv4500 5 speed. I loved driving this truck. I bought the truck and added 3000 rpm gov. Springs and put a 0# fuel plate in it. drove it for less than a year and the push rod cover started to leak like a sive. The truck had 186000 miles when i bought it and the cover started to leak at 200000 miles on the dot. I figured that some little things would happen after 200000 so i figured it would be easy. My father owns an auto repair garage but we dont do heavy motor repair on diesels, but i thought it would be easy to fix. Well my truck is fitted with a P7100 pump and the push rod cover is right behind it. So i took the pump out and proceeded to fix the gasket. No big deal. Well then the problems started? i being stupid now i know didnt research the process of how to torque the nut down on the pump shaft so i snugged it on with an impact and thought it would be fine. I fixed to KDP to at this time that was a good idea. When i went to start the truck it was fine but when i went down the road and throttled up it sliped and started bellowing white smoke. I got it back and preceeded to take it back apart with some research under my hat and pin timed my pump and the engine. Then i put it back together and the engine didnt even want to start and i still had white smoke once it started with a shot of aether but then it sounded like a 7.3 and had no power. For the third time i thought maybe the pump sliped again so i consulted a few diesel mechanics and they told me it was still out of time and to try putting some extreme lock tite on the shaft before putting the gear on. So i did this and i torqued it down right and let it sit. It worked great at fixing the the slipping problem but not with it fixing the motor. I finally thought that maybe the motor being out of time did internal damage because after a while of running it would start to leak oil out of the exhaust. So i pulled the head and found nothing to be wrong with the head gasket. So after spendeing alot of money on gaskets and such i am putting the head back on. I did a ton of research and found that the 94 dodge with a standard trans. Has to be edvanced in order to work right. I am looking at a different method to time the motor and was looking at the "spill pore" method to set the pump and then i can advance the engine to the right degree. I am not dum when it comes to mechanics i just need hep to point me in the right direction. Please someone give me the info i need so i can drive my baby again! This is my only vehicle at the momment and need it to work. I cant barrow freinds vehicles for to much longer. I want to have a backing of solid knowledge before i go forward. Help! Help! Mayday! Thanks for reading. Any info would be apreciated! Again thank you!

patdaly

Ok, before you freak out too much, let's check you timing.

Once you get it back together, pin the engine at TDC, and remove the access cover on the pump and see if the timing slot is centered in the window.

It should look like this:



If it looks like that, then you have something else causing it.

Don't freak out just yet, this could be as simple as an air leak...... One breath, and one step at a time.

94dodgeman

Ok first thank you very much for replying to my post. Im getting ready to put the head on in a day. But i wounder if it would be easier to time the pump to the engine with the head off. so that when i time the engine i can visually see that the piston is at TDC. I probably could turn the engine over now and check the pump with your process before i put the head back on. Just so i know that the piston is at TDC. Theoretically my idea sounds good. But what do you think?

Lary Ellis (Top)

PM sent......

patdaly

Beautiful idea, that way you can also double check to see if your timing pin is putting it at TDC as well.

I will give this a day or so for you to read, then I will move it to the 12 valve section so we don't clog up the emergency forum.

94dodgeman

Thank you for your help in trying to figure out my problem as well as getting back to me so quick i really appreciate it!

patdaly

Did you get it figured out?

94dodgeman

Im just waiting on an engine rotating tool thats comeing in the mail. Should be here today. I cant find anyone to help me rotate while i feel for the dimple in the timing gear. But eathier way im gonna check it today.

patdaly

Ok, just keep us in the loop, we will help you get it figured out.

94dodgeman

Well my rotateing tool didnt come in today but i turned it over with a socket and rachet. I visually put the motor at TDC and checked the dimple on the timing gear. It was spot on. So i checked the pump by loosening that cap and seeing if there was a pin. I used our telescopic camera and there was no pin in sight. I guess this means that the pump is out of time with the motor. Im thinking of using the spill pour method to time the pump just to be acurate. Mainly because my plastic pump timing tool is broken. What do you think i should do next?

Ronco95

We have some very good people here.

With time and patience, they can get you up and running and can help you tackle most anything that comes your way.

gorms

Another tip, oil drain plug drilled out to hold a dial indicator (with a set screw drilled into the side) makes a nice adapter to check plunger lift. As much as I hate the place, harbor freight has dial indicators for very cheap. I verified mine with feeler gauges and it was spot on. Just make sure you use the correct chart for your pump, double check pump in case there is a chance of it not being original to the truck. And clean clean clean the gear to shaft connection, then clean it again.

Not discrediting you at all, but please be careful if verifying TDC with no head, don't want a pump 180 degrees out of time, has happened before.

PS if you post your location on your sig someone may be near by to lend a hand.

patdaly

I guess you could use the spill port method, but since you have the head off, and you know exactly where TDC is, why not just bar the engine over until you see the slot in the pump window, get it centered, then pop off the gear and run it to TDC just like the spill port method? This assumes you want stock timing.

Spill port method is accurate if you do everything just so. What probably happened is at some point in the past, someone had the pump off and they put the pump on in before they cracked the nut loose, then as they loosened the nut, it rolled enough to break the pin. Remember, always crack the nut before you insert the pin, and then when you start to tighten it, just snug the nut and pull the pin before you hit it with the 145 Lb/Ft. torque.

Do you have a delivery valve socket?

Also, do you want to leave it at stock timing?

patdaly

YES! Glad you mentioned it, when you think you have TDC found, try putting the timing pin in the cam gear, if it doesn't go, you know you are 180 out......

Good catch Gorms!

94dodgeman

So the mail is being freakying slow. But we checked the rotation of the engine with a push rod and made sure that the motor is at TDC on the roght stroke. We also used a dial to set TDC fight perfect. Just for ha ha's we went 180 to the wrong stroke to and checked to see if the pump pin was visiable but it wasnt. Right know i just want to get the truck back running. So for now ya i do want it at stock timeing. If i want to ill monkey around with edvanceing it later. I keed looking on the inner web but i cant get a strait answer on how to set the pump to stock timing with the spill pour method. Im ready to set the pump but i just cant get a step by step on how to set it. I didnt see the pin in the pump on both 180 rotations so i geuss i could try pin timing it but i just would like to be as exact as possiable. My motor spec. Plate says 12.5 degrees so how does this play in? Would you be able to set me up with a step by step on spill pour timing? Anything helps and i thank you greatly for any advice.