Should i just pin time the pump and clean the shaft. And then just set the motor to TDC? And that should work? What does it mean when it says 12.5 degrees? Is that before TDC? After TDC? Is it already calibrated with that dimple in the motor or in the pump?

 

I don't have any experience with spill port timing, I did find this article that explains it. In your case you really need to find the pin reference as a base, or be very accurate with measuring the distance needed to change your timing along the damper.

I guess if I were you, find pin reference on pump first, pull gear off shaft. Install gear with only a few ft-lbs, enough so you can rotate the motor and pump back to the pin notch on the pump, as pulling the gear off when fully torqued usually moves the pump a bit. Once the notch is centered in the window (you know this is where the pin comes in handy) stop and pull the gear off again. Pump shouldn't really turn much as the gear will come off much easier. Now rotate the motor back to TDC via the timing pin. Clean pump gear and shaft, install gear And torque to spec while holding the motor from turning. Then check with spill port or plunger lift method if you cannot access a pin for the pump. Keep in mind any time you pull the gear while its torqued the pump will most likely jump around a bit, so maybe check before torquing the gear nut down.

Good luck!

PS when the two pins are lined up from the factory, motor is at true TDC (really close anyway) and the pump is timed to whatever the nameplate says, as long as the pump has not neen tampered with internally. So if your nameplate says 12.5 degrees, it will be timed to that when pin timed. If it says otherwise, 14 degrees on mine, it will be at the stated timing when pin timed.

 

To use the spill port method to do stock timing (12.5° in your case) you would get your injection pump to the point where the spill port just closes on #1 and then pop the injection pump gear off (take the nut off the injection pump gear before you turn the engine over to close the spill port) once you have the gear off verify that the pump didn't move any. Then turn the engine over to TDC and figure out where you need to move it from there.
One way to measure goes like this, we know that the damper has a diameter of 9.25" so divide that by 2 and we get the radius of 4.625"
from here you would take your desired timing degrees and divide that by 2 (12.5°/2=6.25)
now we have the numbers we need to calculate how far we need to move the damper BTDC to set the desired timing.
The calculation would go like this, 4.625*6.25sin=0.503 (sin=sine function formula)
Now we multiply that number by 2, 0.503*2=1.006 and that is our final number we want.
Take some calipers and set them to 1.006" and make a TDC mark on the damper using the edge of the crank sensor as a reference point(with the engine at TDC) now measure 1.006" BTDC from your TDC mark and make another mark, then turn the engine so that your new mark lines up with the crank sensor now instead of the TDC mark and you are at the desired timing.

I'm not the best at describing this stuff in text, hopefully its clear enough if not ask away any questions.

Maybe this picture will help explain the calculations some.

 

Ok, the flat easiest way to do it is for you to have someone turn the engine slowly until you see the reference slot in the window of the pump, center that puppy as closely as you can ( I would loosen the IP nut, but not crack the gear loose ), and once you have the slot centered visually ( since your pump timing tab is broken ), then use the puller to pop off the gear, move the engine to TDC, and put gear back on. Just lightly tighten the nut, say 30 lb/ft. and then rotate the engine 2 revs and visually make sure the timing slot is still centered.

At that point, torque her to spec, and check to make sure it didn't slip yet again.

That will put you at stock timing the easiest way I know how to do it.

 

Wow this is a good plethora of info. I think this will help me greatly. I got my baring tool in today. I also got a barrel socket for the pump. I think im gonna try pin timing it again the way you guys where talking and we will go from there. Before i go and time it again with the motor like it is i am gonna bring the pump to time and see how far off the motor is, just to see. I really like haereing how to do this from knowledgeable people instead of trying to get it of of the inner-web. Thanks for the help. I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

I also figured that while i have the head ( seeing as i have put the govenor springs in) i would just put 60 pd valve springs in. It will be 10 times easier. I know that im gonna be useing a fealer gauge two set the rockers but i was woundering if someone could tell me what size fealer to use for both intake and exhaust. I think exhaust is 20. Again thank you for all the advice. Im gonna try your way first patdaly.

 

0.010" for intake and 0.020" for exhaust.

 

Cool thanks. For the info.

 

Well the motor is completely back together. Pin timed, valve lash, everything. We bled it out and after the second injector it wanted to fire. We did them all. The truck started up fast and idled fine but was high. At this time we noticed that it was blowing white smoke. Alot of smoke. It would idle but as soon as you throttled it up it ran like ****! Like i said it would idle good but high. When we throttled it up higher but it back fired. We checked the timing after and it was spot on. So kind of at a loss. Any ideas? Thanks for your time

 

The white smoke, is it really strong diesel smell like unburned fuel?

Next step is to verify your fuel pressures.

Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Articles - P7100 Injection Pump - Fuel Pressure

 

Ya it burns your nose. How would i go about checking the fuel pressure?

 

Check the link he just gave you, good description of how to check fuel pressure.

 

Something else to think about it the timing pin in the pump can sometimes move causing pin timing to be wrong.

 

Yep, but we wanted to get him back to a known close configuration. It could still be timing, but I am leaning more towards a fuel pressure/air in fuel issue.

 

Ill check out your link. I Backed of the stop bolt on the throttle linkage and it idles great now. I had it set high before to keep it running when it had its bad issues. I talk to a good freind who is a mechanic for our local public works and he said that maybe because i put slightly bigger injectors in that i need to advance the pump a little to keep up with the demand of the injectors. Cause it idles great and will rev up to about 1800 and then it starts blowing white smoke and bucking. I had stock injectors in it before but when i took it apart and put it back together i dicided to by some injectors so that i new they were clean. I just bumped up the size. What do you all think?