12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

HELP! ASAP... Control arms

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #16  
jdjanetka's Avatar
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I had the same problem and used up quite a few sawzall blades gettings those buggers out.I used energy suspension poly bushings and burned out the old rubber ones with a torch(old steel sleeves stay in the arms). I used new dodge bolts up front and sourced class 10.9 m12 bolts from mcmaster carr for the rear. I looked back in my reciepts and these should be the right numbers, bottom eccentric bolts(6504237 $12.84 ea.)/ top bolts 6506033AA $6.12 ea). If you use a sawzall make sure you get a couple packs of new blades . good luck.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #17  
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Thanks guys! I will be installing aftermarket control arms with new bushings already installed so that part is easy. Getting the old ones out should be fun... I have my torches, Snap-On air hammer, Milwaukee Sawzall, hammers and prybars of all sizes ready to go... I should photograph this process....

PS... alot of people who I see use a sawzall to cut metal go full speed and that WILL kill the blade in a short amount of time... You have to back the speed down when cutting metal and the blades last MUCH longer but they do still wear out.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 04:46 AM
  #18  
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From: Danbury CT.
I with love to see some pictures of the after market Control arms

Glenn
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 04:55 AM
  #19  
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ditto on the blade speed.you'll need some longer blades on some of the bolts and can only use a small portion of the blade. As soon as the blade starts to dull ( metal stops flying) change it out.Cutting with a dull blade at high speed only makes the bolt harder and harder to cut.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:17 AM
  #20  
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Yea, my favorite blades for metal are called "The Torch" and I mostly use the longer ones that are like 10 inches.
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