Ok, I have a leak from my head gasket directly under cylinder #5 on the passenger side. I need help with a few things, are there any step by steps anyone has found the change the gasket? Can I use the studs again? does anyone know where I can find a part number for a stock or maybe better than stock gasket? Also, it isn't leaking to horribly bad. I'm doing my turbo at the same time because I have been boosting an HX-35 to 42 lbs WOT. If I get the gasket replaced and change to a HTB2 62/14 ( been researching turbos for a while ) Do you guys think everything will be ok? Any help please, am going to tackle this soon as I get enough info to feel comfortable.

 

The head is not too bad to R&R. I would install gasket 3283339 this is a .020 over gasket, if you want the +.010 it is 3283337, and stock thickness is 3283335. Scheid diesel also has a new MLS gasket that is available but I haven't tried one yet to know how good it really is. Do you currently have studs or bolts installed (I saw studs but just want to be sure). If studs you can use again no problem, torque to 125#. If bolts I would replace with studs. You might consider getting the head o-ringed this would put all fears at rest. Another thing is be sure and have the head decked, personally I would do a valve job, new seals, and check the vale guides. Going to the HTT turbo will help a lot as the HX-35 is making a lot more backpressure than 42#....

Doug

 

it is all still stock, I assume that's bolts? How much do the studs go for? And also what does a gasket run? I'm not working on it until monday when parts stores are open. Thanks for the help

 

If its all stock then yes you have bolts. Studs are around $425 a set, the Cummins gasket will be around $90 and the MLS one about twice that.

 

Can I reuse the stock bolts? Like I said Im goin to the HTB2 62/14 so do you think a .20 marine gasket and stock bolts would hold?

 

why would you bother using the stock bolts? If youre concerned about the cost ,hold off on the turbo for now and get the head o ringed and studded then buy the turbo later.Youre asking for trouble if you install the bolts back in and run alot of boost

 

Maybe they would..... But then again it might blow and if it does it normally is at the most inopportune time. If budget is a concern go with o-rings and studs then do the turbo later. If you are really set on the turbo I would at least do the studs, +.020 gasket, deck the head, and keep boost below 32# on the HX-35 and 42-45# and the HTT turbo.

 

What does it cost to O-ring? Yall are probably right and ill wait on the turbo, when you O-ring is there no gasket? just the O-ring right? Thanks for all the help

 

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roottremblay:

Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES would I even try to use those stock Cummins Headbolts again! I would not even do it even if they all checked as "good" against the standard Cummins "Stretch" Guide!

Jetpilot and the other DTR Members are giving you some good advice on at least going with 12mm studs. If cost is a factor for you, then buy some NEW Cummins Headbolts. As I recall, a full set of new stock Cummins headbolts are around $200.00, but Jetpilot can tell you for sure.

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John_P

 

Well to cut the rings is normally $300-$400, you will also need the head cleaned and decked.

Basically what you happens with o-rings is a .039 groove is cut into the head on top of where the fire ring of the gasket is. A .041 stainless steel wire is inserted onto the groove leaving .010-.012 protrusion on the wire. The head is then installed using one of the Cummins gaskets above (personally I pretty much always use the +.020 gasket). This process seals the fire ring of the gasket allowing for more cylinder pressures to produced safely.

As John P. mentioned above reuse of the old bolts is not really recommended. If you were running a completely stock truck then yes I might reuse them, but for you application what you want is reliability!

Doug

 

Im not gonna reuse them, I just didnt know is why I asked. Im gonna shoot for getting it O-ringed as well as studs.

 

Im gonna bag and number the push rods and rocker assemblies and also the injectors. I wanted to know how hard it is to get the push rods back where they belong? Maybe if yall had any pointers