J.R. Adkins

[quote author=Rammin On link=board=16;threadid=8995;start=0#88048 date=1041643888]
Go too tight and you'll lose control of your idle
[/quote]
Then adjust it back until you get your idle.


J.R.

berner

[quote author=J.R. Adkins link=board=16;threadid=8995;start=0#88051 date=1041643968]
I pulled over 4000 with the stock springs. Valves checked out good.


J.R.
[/quote]

Wow! You got ba**s man! ;D

bulthisl

[quote author=berner link=board=16;threadid=8995;start=15#88057 date=1041644523]<br>[quote author=J.R. Adkins link=board=16;threadid=8995;start=0#88051 date=1041643968]<br>I pulled over 4000 with the stock springs. Valves checked out good.<br><br><br>J.R.<br>[/quote]<br><br><br><br> Wow! You got ba**s man! ;D<br>[/quote]<br><br>Maybe they're hanging under the truck ;D<br><br> : Eddie : 8)<br>

boughtadodge

[quote author=Rammin On link=board=16;threadid=8995;start=0#88048 date=1041643888]<br>Go too tight and you'll lose control of your idle<br>[/quote] What happens that you can not control your idle does it fluctuate or what. Matt

J.R. Adkins

You just wont be able to adjust the idle any lower. <br><br><br>J.R.

Don M

You can rev the engine up past 4K with the stock springs for a little while, but eventually you will be buying parts if you dont deal with valvetrain harmonics and vibrations.<br><br>Generally you will not always hear the valves floating when you rev past their ability to hold the tappet on the cam lobe. The lift rates on our cams are very lame but the system is not designed for 4000rpm either. <br><br>If you plan on higher than 3000rpm I always recommend guys use at least the 60lb springs at a minimum.<br><br>Don~<br>

J.R. Adkins

Don I turn over 5000 rpm with the stock cam! I have had it all torn apart this winter. NO DAMAGE! Dont try this at home! <br><br><br>BTW call and ask Enterprise Engine if you need 60lb. springs with a 4k GSK kit. They dont sell anything that a customer does not need. Thanks but i'll stick with Enterprise's advice.<br><br><br>J.R.

Don M

Yeah you can turn those RPMs but I dont like the idea of valve float with the stock springs. <br>Are you saying that Enterprise recommends NOT using the heavier springs for higher RPM work?<br><br>Don~

berner

I was riding in a buddy's 440 SuperBee when he was racing somebody and spanked a valve. Sure took the glow off the evening. It happened about 25 years ago. Been paranoid about doing it ever since.

VinDiesel

The Piers 3K GSK will come with a nice set of written instructions for going in through the side. But you have to get the solenoid out of the way and cut a lock wire to get to the plug. It would be almost impossible to get that safety wire back on and make it look original. Much better to go through the top, just do everything else the same.

You can also use a slide caliper to measure the depth of your retainer nuts (as mentioned in the instructions) as well as count &quot;clicks&quot; or turns.
After removing the AFC and cam plate, a large screwdriver and magnetic retriever were all the tools it took. (I have since modified such a screwdriver with a notch in the middle of the blade, just for this purpose.) Try to work slowly and carefully to not drop parts into the pump, but if you do, don't panic- just fish around with the retriever and pull them out.

BTW, I just used a 22mm socket on the alternator nut and carefully (slowly) turned the engine backwards. It was easier than pulling the plug to use the regular barring point.

nevrenufhp

Ditto what VinD said, Except the time it took to do valve springs was making me wish I got the 3K

nevrenufhp

OK, I actually drove it more than a couple miles with all the goodies in it. Now I have the dreaded stumble at 12-1500 rpm...GSK not adjusted equally I assume. It can hit 4K, but 3800 is more of a peak(manually shifting). I don't have a pyro, but I tapped &amp; plugged the manifold to get it in on next month's NAPA bill. It really helps me keep my foot out of it, 'cause I use a stopwatch for WOT runs of 3-4 sec. max. Sorry I didn't get pictures, the wife was rushing me. Plus the aggrivation of dropping the baby spring IN the pump without having a magnet :'( one more trip to the parts store :. But I will say this:a 3K gsk would be the best thing for 90% of the drivers, with or without bigger injectors. <br><br>My poor tranny!!!

nevrenufhp

On a good note:<br><br>370s and the 4K's= some SERIOUS FREAKIN' THRUST!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

VinDiesel

nevrenufhp,<br><br>If you were fairly careful to set the GSK springs about the same, then I'd say your 12-1500rpm stumble is from small delivery valves. It's probably just showing up more since you now have the 4k kit. I've been told sometimes you get it, sometimes not when adding 370s. Of course, if you had started with the 215hp pump, it would be less likely.<br><br>I'd agree that for most drivers and situations, except all-out drag racing, the 3K GSK will be just fine.<br><br>I hope you have tranny upgrades in mind very soon! <br>

Got Smoke?

I installed my springs on Friday and I believe I have them 1 click to tight (3 clicks) because my idle came up 50-100RPM and if I go to steadily increase the throttle in N or in 2nd once the RPM's get past 1200 it JUMPS up majorly! You can't hold it steady it want's to rev up past 1500. &gt; Makes warming up the truck hard (can't wait for my Ex-brake!). <br><br>I plan on going back and trying to just remove the shutoff solenoid from its bracket and then remove the plug. I think it would be easier this way as I wouldnt' have as much to put back in, and when I put it all back together I put the bracket in first (had to make a new boot out of a old bike tube) and then the solenoid so I know it can be done.<br><br>I'll let y'all know how it turns out, but this not being able to hold a steady idle has gotta go! [undecided]