Gas Filter
Gas Filter
Hello I am a new member here and a new owner of a 1997 Ram 2500 Cummings. I bought the truck about a month ago and I would like to change the gas/water filter, but I have been told that you spin the cartage off or you take the nut off that is in the middle of the top of the filter. I know that I will have to unhook the wire but it looks like if you spin the cartage off what is to say when you put it back on it will line up with the water drain off valve ??
Can anyone help me on this.
Thanks
Can anyone help me on this.
Thanks
Re:Gas Filter
Welcome to the diesel world and DTR.
Check out our Tech Facts button at the top of the page.
Lots of good info to be found there. 8)
A: Instructions on changing your Fuel filter. ;D
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
B: there is no "Gas" filter on a Diesel engine.
C: There's no "G" in Cummins.
Hang around and ask lots of questions,....that's how we learned.
Ed
Check out our Tech Facts button at the top of the page.
Lots of good info to be found there. 8)
A: Instructions on changing your Fuel filter. ;D
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
B: there is no "Gas" filter on a Diesel engine.

C: There's no "G" in Cummins.

Hang around and ask lots of questions,....that's how we learned.

Ed
Re:Gas Filter
[quote author=Shovelhead link=board=16;threadid=17757;start=0#msg166090 date=1059612935]
Hang around and ask lots of questions,....that's how we learned.
[/quote]
What he said - and we still don't know near everything - well, maybe Hoss does. :
Hang around and ask lots of questions,....that's how we learned.
[/quote]What he said - and we still don't know near everything - well, maybe Hoss does. :
Re:Gas Filter
First of all, get a good fuel/water seperator from Fleetguard, it will make things much easier.
The instructions posted by Shovelhead are a good start, but the design of the filter has changed so you won't find two of the o-rings.
I just open the water drain valve with a pan under the truck to catch the fuel as it comes out of the hose. After it stops draining, close the valve, disconnect the water in fuel(WIF) sensor connection, and unscrew the nut on top of the filter housing. The nut will unscrew but it will not come off. Hold the canister while you unscrew the bolt as it is the part that will come off.
After you get the canister loose, you will need to get it out from behind all the brake lines and other stuff in the way. I've found that turning it sideways and sliding it out from behind the brake stuff is the easiest.
When you get the canister out of the truck, remove the old filter, drain whatever fuel is left in it and clean it out real good with a paper towel(I use brake clean to get it nice and clean).
Here's the part the other instructions don't have. The new filters from Fleetguard. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PARt. make sure you have a small o-ring similar to the one on the center rod of the canister. If there isn't one in the package, you will need to re-use the one on the canister. If there is ont in the package, replace the one already on the canister with the new one. The other o-rings are already pre-installed on the new filter. Just make sure the large one around the circumference of the new filter is in place(it is the large square cut o-ring mentioned in the instructions).
Just drop the new filter in the canister making sure it is flush with the top of the canister, slide it back into position and re-install he canister. Don't overtourque the nut on top when you do this. Also, the filter canister and housing will only fit together properly one way. Close the water drain, and re-connect the "WIF" sensor.
Now, here is how I would refill the canister. Get a short 5/8"-3/4" inch diameter handle about 2 ft. long(the short painters handle extension worked great), Loosen the 10mm bolt on the banjo bolt on top of the filter housing. Now, start priming the fuel filter using the primer on the fuel transfer pump on the side of the block with the extension handle(it not necessary but it makes it easier)until fuel comes out of the bolt you loosened. Then just tighten the 10mm bolt back up and start er up.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures of the primer as a reference. Click on the small picture for a larger one.

The instructions posted by Shovelhead are a good start, but the design of the filter has changed so you won't find two of the o-rings.
I just open the water drain valve with a pan under the truck to catch the fuel as it comes out of the hose. After it stops draining, close the valve, disconnect the water in fuel(WIF) sensor connection, and unscrew the nut on top of the filter housing. The nut will unscrew but it will not come off. Hold the canister while you unscrew the bolt as it is the part that will come off.
After you get the canister loose, you will need to get it out from behind all the brake lines and other stuff in the way. I've found that turning it sideways and sliding it out from behind the brake stuff is the easiest.
When you get the canister out of the truck, remove the old filter, drain whatever fuel is left in it and clean it out real good with a paper towel(I use brake clean to get it nice and clean).
Here's the part the other instructions don't have. The new filters from Fleetguard. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PARt. make sure you have a small o-ring similar to the one on the center rod of the canister. If there isn't one in the package, you will need to re-use the one on the canister. If there is ont in the package, replace the one already on the canister with the new one. The other o-rings are already pre-installed on the new filter. Just make sure the large one around the circumference of the new filter is in place(it is the large square cut o-ring mentioned in the instructions).
Just drop the new filter in the canister making sure it is flush with the top of the canister, slide it back into position and re-install he canister. Don't overtourque the nut on top when you do this. Also, the filter canister and housing will only fit together properly one way. Close the water drain, and re-connect the "WIF" sensor.
Now, here is how I would refill the canister. Get a short 5/8"-3/4" inch diameter handle about 2 ft. long(the short painters handle extension worked great), Loosen the 10mm bolt on the banjo bolt on top of the filter housing. Now, start priming the fuel filter using the primer on the fuel transfer pump on the side of the block with the extension handle(it not necessary but it makes it easier)until fuel comes out of the bolt you loosened. Then just tighten the 10mm bolt back up and start er up.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures of the primer as a reference. Click on the small picture for a larger one.
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