As a general rule is this right? regardless of fuel applied if you dont have the air/boost to burn it you doing nothing, right? So, If one was to mod with more fuel you will get more boost, unless you limit your wastegate at say 15 or 20 lbs, or what ever stock is, this will be the limiting factor somewhat correct? because you will never utilize all the fuel your pushing. So if one was to install injectors and a fuel plate on a 95 but the wastegate opened at 20psi period whats the piont of the mods without disabling the wastegate? or resetting with an elbow.

 

There is no point in fueling over stock if all you run is stock boost.....when fueling is increased the appropriate level of boost increase needs to be added to make more power. More fuel without additional boost will just show up in the form of more smoke and egt.

 

So how is the increased boost achieved on a stock turbo and wastegate?

 

just block of the line to the wastegate, a 1/8th" plug works like a champ. if you are boosting over 40#s you will need to reactivate the wastegate.

 

The line to the waste gate from where? I thought the wastegate was attached to the turbo.

 

From the rear of the injection pump.

 

My line(when I had one) went from the compressor side of the turbo to the wastegate. It's about 1/4" I.D. and about 8-10" long.

 

If your boost signal line is like a lot the 95's follow the line from the turbo up and across the motor the line probably runs right between the two center valve covers then as Infidel said runs to the back of the injection pump to the AFC housing. That is where your w/gate receives its signal and where you would install a bleed off valve, boost fooler valve or plug the line.

 

I never seen any setup like that, seems like it would cause a rapidly opening and closing wastegate situation.

 

So where does the line get disconnected from? Thoughts on homemade boost controllers?

 

This is how mine is on my 97'. I don't know if has anything to do with the "big head" Banks waste gate, though.

MIke

 

my '95 is also stock with the line form the compressor outlet staright to the gate, without going to the AFC. I have seen many more over the engine, but have also seen several, like mine, at the turbo. I haven't seen any anomolies with spikes or the like plumbed that way. Though the longer length over the engine style would seem to dampen the signal a little more, the short style appears to work as well.

Do a search on boost controllers, you'll find every DIY contraption that could be devised, but the spring and ball check version is probably the most reliable IMO.

And basically, you are putting this device in the wategate hose or line to intercept true boost pressure, and delay the signal to the gate, making it think it only has 18 psi, when in reality, the engine is higher. When your preset boost number is reached, the gate is seeing it's stock pressure setting and opens. It doesn't know any better.

This only works on pre-electronic engines though. Electronic engines will sense an overboost and ct fuel I believe. There is a boost fooler that will take care of the electronics.

Chris

 

you can buy a boost elbow for $25 at www.tstproducts.com

 

I made a boost controller out of a regulator for an HVLP paint gun, it alowed me to dial in the amount of boost I wanted and cost me less then $10...this was on my turbo supra which is VERY picky about how much boost you feed it.
GREG